48 Hours In Rome

Rome, the eternal city, is always worth a trip. Even if it’s a short trip for two days, as in my case. My starting point this time was a special kind of hotel, right on the Piazza di Spagna. A place from which you can reach many sights and the city’s most popular shopping routes on foot.

The Spanish Steps in Rome are one of the most photographed hotspots in the city. You won’t even see it deserted in the pouring rain. My hotel for 48 hours, on the other hand, is an insider tip. The address is also the name: PiazzaDiSpagna9 – Luxury Suites & Art Gallery.

PiazzaDiSpagna9 – Living between works of art

On the third floor of the orange-colored palazzo from the 14th century, you live among contemporary art and ultra-modern design. Each of the objects and selected pieces of furniture can be purchased and delivered directly to your home if your bank account allows. The small hotel is a true Eldorado for design and art lovers.

The house, or rather floor, in Piazza di Spagna is family-run. It was designed by the famous Italian interior designer Stefania Grippo. However, you will search in vain for a restaurant and breakfast room. Art has priority here. For relaxation, however, there is a cozy and luxurious spa with a whirlpool, massages and even a small hammam. The eclectic lounge area, a common room for temporary residents, offers a breathtaking view of the Piazza di Spagna with the Fontana della Barcaccia (Barcaccia Fountain) and the Spanish Steps.

Emanuele, the concierge at PiazzaDiSpagna9, is available to assist his guests from 8 am to 8 pm. And also by mobile phone. If there are any questions about the best place to have breakfast (two houses on the left) or dinner, he always has the right address for your requirements.

Over the roofs of Rome

The six rooms and suites, mostly hidden behind golden doors, have names such as Joy, Breath and Whisper. Mine is called Aria and actually has a small, airy balcony overlooking a typical Italian backyard. It would be nice to be able to have breakfast here in the sunshine. I can hear singers practicing their octaves from the outbuilding. Below me, next to a stone fountain, a sign reading “Carpe Diem” swings in the wind.

And that’s what I do. I pick the day. I start with a typical Italian breakfast two houses down. Cappuccino and a cornetto con marmellata. Emanueles tip was worth its weight in gold. Il Gianfornaio has everything your heart desires. Delicious pastries (paste), every kind of coffee, fresh juices, and for those who prefer something savory, pizza and focaccia.

As far as your feet can carry you

Freshly fortified, I set off on a tour of the surrounding area. You have to explore Rome on foot. The central location of my hotel allows easy access to all the sights that the wonderful city of Rome has to offer. The Piazza di Spagna is already at my feet, as I’ve already mentioned. I can walk 800 meters to the Fontana di Trevi, the Pantheon is one kilometer away, the Colosseum 2.3 kilometers and the Vatican is 3 kilometers away. All easily doable.

The longest shopping street is Via del Corso. It runs for one and a half kilometers through the historic center of Rome from Piazza Venezia to Piazza del Popolo. It offers stores for every taste and budget: from internationally famous brand stores to small Italian shops. Here you will also find the beautiful Art Nouveau shopping arcade Galleria Alberto Sordi. If you stroll along Via del Tritone, you will reach the luxury department store La Rinascente.

Art in the “Antico Caffè Greco”

I take a break at the „Antico Caffè Greco“ in Via dei Condotti 86, within sight of the Spanish Steps. Via dei Condotti is even better known for all its luxury stores, from Bulgari to Prada. But the historic café, which was founded in 1760 and owes its name to the fact that the founder, a certain Nicola della Maddalena, was a Levantine, is worth a detour to this street alone.

Schopenhauer and Papa Pope Leone XIIII were guests here. The “Gruppo dei Romanisti”, an old circle of scholars and academics with a special interest in the city of Rome, still meets here on the first Wednesday of every month. Over 300 works of art hang on the walls. The most famous is probably“La Barca della Vita“ (The Boat of Life) by Domenico Morelli. He was one of the greatest painters of the Italian Risorgimento, capturing the essence of an era of change and struggle in his paintings.

“La Barca della Vita” from 1891 is a symbol of a nation in search of identity and freedom. It hangs in the last room of the café, which is cordoned off with a thick red cord. I ask the head waiter, who is wearing a tailcoat and not just a dark suit and bow tie like the rest of the staff, if I can see it up close. “Volentieri – with pleasure,” he says and gives me an escort to take me to the work of art. It is both impressive and depressing how powerfully Morelli depicts the oppressed Italian people and their hope for liberation.

I gladly accept the higher prices in the “Antico Greco” for this experience. A slice of cake costs 12 euros, a club sandwich 15 euros and the coffee espresso, the elixir of life for Italians, a hefty 7 euros.

Prati and Monti – two contrasts

The “Cola di Rienzo” is also a popular shopping street and somewhat more upmarket than the Via del Corso. It is the main street in the affluent Prati district. Here, luxury brands and designer boutiques join unique stores with jewelry and shoes made in Italy. The glamorous Coin Excelsior, department store, where designer clothing, perfume and cosmetics are available, is also worth a visit. There are also various restaurants, cafés and ice cream parlors where you can take a break after a hard day’s shopping.

The opposite can be experienced just a short walk from the Colosseum in one of Rome’s oldest districts. Monti is a very lively district with a mix of vintage stores, boutiques run by locals and artisan markets. Every weekend, up-and-coming designers sell clothes, accessories and household goods at the trendy Mercato Monti. In the streets Via Urbana, Via del Boschetto and Via dei Serpenti you can still store for cheap clothing and jewelry.

Delicacies for body and soul

The “Venchi” ice cream parlors in Rome (there is even one at Fiumicino airport!) are highly recommended. Mine is within walking distance of the hotel: Venchi Cioccolato e Gelato, Roma Via della croce 25 /26, Piazza di Spagna. There is a large selection of ice cream flavors (including vegan varieties) and very friendly service. The ice cream is creamy and full of flavor, the waffles are crispy. On request, they can be filled with chocolate and even dipped in it! A paradise for chocolate fans.

In the evening, on Emanuel’s recommendation, I make a reservation at Ristorante „Al 34“ in der Via Mario de Fiori 34. This traditional, family-run trattoria with a terrace serves antipasti, pasta and Roman fish and meat dishes. There are also dishes for vegans as well as vegan and gluten-free options. The homemade tiramisu is a particular highlight. Reservations are recommended, otherwise you can expect long queues from 8 pm onwards.

For a more refined dining experience, head to „Achilli al Parlamento“, Via dei Prefetti 15, behind the Italian parliament. Its history began in 1972 with Gianfranco Achilli’s passion for wine. He served selected wines by the glass with sensational gourmet canapés, a novelty for Rome at the time. It has since become a contemporary restaurant with a Michelin star, where chef Pierluigi Gallo offers a combination of gastronomic tradition, innovative techniques and preparation methods. It is a creative cuisine that stands out with its character in the Roman gastronomic scene.

The list of good restaurants in Rome is endless. But there are also many “tourist traps” to be wary of. On the Fallstaff website for example, you can find 430 top restaurants. And as in my case, if you have a good hotel, always ask the concierge.