Skip to main content
Search Results for “mica”

What Exactly Are Peptides?

Written by Margit RĂŒdiger on . Posted in Health & Beauty.

The term peptides is used time and again in skin care products. If you believe the advertising, true power molecules are hidden behind it, which smooth wrinkles, tighten and refresh the skin. And they also make the muscles grow. “First and foremost, peptides help to form the collagen and elastin fibers that are everywhere in our skin. It’s short chains of amino acids that tell the body to produce more collagen.” This is how Ron Robinson, my favorite cosmetic chemist in New York, who has an answer to every beauty question, explains the phenomenon of peptides. Roger that. Peptides are something like little messengers that deliver messages. Roger that. In this case, they signal the cells to start the skin’s natural regeneration process.But why are there so many different peptides? Robinson has an explanation for that too. „Since peptides are composed of up to 50 amino acids, they are incredibly changeable. All you have to do is add, remove or replace an amino acid and you have already created a new peptide that again fulfills new functions.“ This can be smoothing or strengthening, it can have an anti-inflammatory effect or keep the moisture in the skin for longer. Chain reaction To go a little deeper: Proteins such as collagen consist of chains of peptides, which in turn consist of amino acids. There are hundreds of peptides, and each peptide is made from a combination of amino acids. If peptides are combined in a certain way, they form proteins. Proteins in turn are composed of one or more polypeptide chains. The length of these chains can vary from approx. 40 to over 4,000 amino acids. To speak of the one peptide would be wrong. Peptides are rather a whole group with a wide variety of tasks and functions. Of the many peptides, tetrapeptides (they have four amino acids) and hexapeptides with six amino acids are often used in skin care. Due to their special chemical structure, both perform a wide variety of tasks: Hexapeptides can reduce stubborn expression lines, while tetrapeptides promote elasticity and firmness of the skin. Molecules which have at least ten amino acids are generally classified as polypeptides. Shorter polypeptides are called oligopeptides. The individual amino acids are linked by so-called peptide bonds. Incidentally, this was researched in 1902 by the German chemist and later Nobel laureate Emil Fischer. Peptides instead of botox Agireline (INCI name: Acetyl-Hexapeptide 3), which is said to have a botox-like effect, is one of the best known oligo- or hexapeptides.… weiterlesen

Testet for you: Studio Botanic „Face Serum“

Written by Margit RĂŒdiger on . Posted in #me.

Try something vegan, I thought to myself. Even if I’m not the vegan type, I’m curious about it. “Less is more”, the motto of the German cosmetics manufacturer Studio Botanic, I like very much, because I think that you don’t have to overload the skin with umpteen active ingredients. I also like the packaging: puristic, timeless, clear. The products are naturally free from petrochemical derivatives like Silicone, mineral oils, petrolatum (Vaseline), paraffin wax. All ingredients are verifiably vegan, purely natural and high quality from certified organic cultivation. The face serum contains 2% vegetable hyaluronic acid for a skin-tightening effect. Thank to its long-, medium- and short-chains, the upper as well as the middle and lower skin layers can be optimally reached. Also in the product: hemp extract with important omega fatty acids for antioxidant protection and soothing cucumber extract. Vegan glycerin ensures optimal suppleness due to its moisture-binding effect, which takes place at the skin depth.And now for the test: The serum is rather viscous. I test it first on the back of my left hand. The drop that I drip onto my skin stays there exactly shaped without running. I pass it. The liquid is immediately absorbed into the skin and leaves a smoother surface compared to the other hand. Now it’s the turn of the face: I put three drops on my fingertips and spread the serum on the cleaned skin and neck. As I massage it in, I feel a slight stickiness that disappears quickly. My skin seems to be soaking up the serum, it feels smooth and a little plumper. After about three minutes I apply the day cream. Overall, my skin is happy with it, the complexion becomes a little smoother every day. The only downside: the serum should be used within six months after opening, because then the natural ingredients are most active! Studio Botanic „Face Serum“, 30 ml, ca. 45 Euro Lead photo: shutterstock… weiterlesen

How Crisis-Proof are Lipsticks now?

Written by Margit Hiebl on . Posted in Culture.

Our author Margit Hiebl tells why she won’t be without her red statement lips, even during the current face mask requirement. She also explains why expensive lipsticks sell particularly well in times of crisis’ like now. Normally I don’t go topless. I mean, without wearing a red lipstick. Even in times of Covid-19. But now I mean, without wearing a face mask. Will this be the timeout for lipsticks? Or just, making it a luxury item for the very special moments? Because, even if all restaurants and bars will be open again – the face mask will be our main accessoiry. And believe me, it doesn’t have a very seductive effect, when taking off the mask for having dinner and your lip-make-up looks as if you already had dinner. For, as known, a lipstick is essential for a lady, especially in difficult times. The „lipstick index“ A phenomenon, which was seen the first time after the economical crisis in the twenties of the last century in the US. Whereas the industrial did nearly halve, the revenue of lipsticks and creams did rise. A similar trend was seen after the financial crisis more than ten years ago. Same pattern after 9/11. And since then the phenomenon gots a name: Whereas stock exchange courses were flying low, sales figures for lipstick did skyrocket. Leonard Lauder, at that time CEO of EstĂ©e Lauder Companies, named this kind of indicator for economical development the “lipstick index”. Little luxury Why do women buy expensive lipstick in hard times? One attempt to explain: When the disposable income goes low in times of economical stagnation and they can’t or won’t spend lots of money for high value purchases, women treat themselves with a bit luxury – e.g. a chic lipstick. In the end, according to a maxim of Holly Golightly, the little-black-dressed New Yorker partygirl from the cult movie “Breakfast at Tiffany’s”, what counts in difficult times: „A girl can’t read that sort of thing without her lipstick“. When the going gets tough – keep going, but not without a lipstick. After all, style is everything, Diana Vreeland said, New York’s socialite and editor in chief of US-Vogue (1963-1971). It helps you getting up in the morning and going down the stairs. It’s a way of living. In a nutshell Why not wearing a kick-ass lipstick in your homeoffice, instead of wearing masks (please do this, as usual, after work or on your weekend).… weiterlesen

Hyaluronic Acid: What Advantage does it Really have in Creams?

Written by Margit RĂŒdiger on . Posted in Cream.

Whether day skin care, serum or gel, hyaluronic acid is lauded as THE miracle weapon in the field of anti-aging. It is purported to cushion the skin, smooth wrinkles and balance roughness. But is the praise really justified? The body’s own natural substance Hyaluronic acid (HA for short) is, at least, not foreign to the body. Chemically speaking, it is a polysaccharide, i.e. a multiple sugar, and thus an important component of various types of connective tissue. It is the main component of our synovial fluid and lubricates the joints. The largest proportion of HA, about 50 percent, is stored in the skin. Its task is to bind enormous amounts of water – up to six liters per gram. Unfortunately, the body’s own production also decreases with age, starting from around the age of 25. At 50, the water reservoirs are only half full and this begins to become noticeable in the outside appearance: Fine lines and wrinkles, sunken cheeks, crow’s feet or a deepening of the nasolabial fold are classic signs of hyaluronic acid deficiency. The elasticity of one’s own skin, the so-called skin turgor, can be measured easily: one raises a skin fold on the hand with two fingers and releases it. Depending on the moisture content, the wrinkle remains or restores itself elastically. By the way, cracking joints are also an indication that hyaluronic acid is decreasng in the synovial fluid. Chain reaction The empty depots cannot be filled as easily as one might imagine, and certainly not with an externally applied cream. Whether this has an effect and what that effect may be is mainly due to the size of the HA molecules. Simone Presto, physician and expert for the Eucerin HyaluronPlus series, confirms this: “The long-chain (high-molecular) hyaluronic acid is a very large molecule which remains on the skin. The medium-chain hyaluronic acid penetrates a little deeper into the superficial skin layers through the epidermis, up to about the middle of the 12 epidermal layers. The short-chain (low-molecular) hyaluronic acid can penetrate more deeply.” But, as the doctor admits, there is a limit here as well. Even the smallest HA molecules cannot break through the basal membrane, the bottom layer of the epidermis, where cells are constantly produced. No innovative cosmetic can overcome this. The short-chain hyaluronic acid is deposited there and swells up because it binds water from the tissue. In this way, it can not only ensure that wrinkles become flatter, but also that cell communication is maintained.… weiterlesen

Anti-Aging Help From One’s Own Body

Written by Margit RĂŒdiger on . Posted in Cream.

The use of autologous (own) fat as a filler substance for wrinkles and sunken facial areas is essentially nothing new and own fat is certainly one of the oldest soft tissue augmentation materials known to mankind. Its advantages: The good and almost always unlimited availability as well as the optimal compatibility of the body’s own natural substance. Novel is that special consideration is paid to the anatomy, ensuring better aesthetic results and increased durability. Dr. Gerhard Sattler, founder and medical director of Rosenpark Klinik in Darmstadt explains the method and its advantages: How does the Facial Lipo Reset (FLR) method work? The harvested autologous fat is filtered and freed from connective tissue fibers, blood and the oil phase. The processed fat is then filled into syringes and, in confirmity with the patient’s anatomy, inserted into the tissue layers via thin (18 gauge) cannulas until the tissue or volume deficit has normalized. In contrast to the classical Coleman LipoStructure method, the FLR method uses the existing anatomy as the basis of the tissue architecture to avoid changing the individual appearance of the patient. What is the fundamental difference between the two methods? In the LipoStructure method, the subcutaneous tissue zone is intentionally mobilized, and the harvested fat incorporated diffusely. Within the framework of wound healing, the tissue conditions are then homogenized and harmonized. With the FLR method, on the other hand, the body’s own fat tissue is injected exactly into the space in which fat tissue is located or used to be located. This means that the fat is applied in an orderly manner into a fat chamber while preserving the architectural equilibrium and structure. The FLR method may, therefore, also be described as a targeted augmentation, while the LipoStructure method can be regarded as a destructive homogenization treatment. The latter is an anatomy-independent lipofilling without taking the recipient site, the anatomy and statics of the treatment zone into consideration. Simply put, the basic intention here was simply to “inflate” or fill out. What is the advantage if the fat is injected in conformity with the anatomy? Aesthetic anatomy allows the knowledge of fat chambers, retaining ligaments and various tissue layers. Injected fatty tissue has the best survival rate if it is injected into rooms in which fatty tissue is already located. Fat tissue placed between fasciae (connective tissue) or septa has no survival rate. Which areas can be filled out? Mainly the superficial fatty tissue layers of the face as well as the deeper localized fat chambers are augmented.… weiterlesen

Pigment Spots: Harmless, but Annoying!

Written by Margit RĂŒdiger on . Posted in Cream.

Although from a medical point of view the brown spots are harmless, visually they can be quite disturbing. There are many methods of treating them and one of the most modern is fractional laser technology. Pigment spots commonly appear on the forehead, the cheek area and above the upper lip. Most hyperpigmentation spots are caused by exposure to sunlight and for this reason, frequently develop on the back of the hand or on the forearms, areas which often less protected against light. If someone has spent a lot of time in the sun, the first brown spots may already appear at the age of 35 or 40. The skin then often looks blotchy and prematurely aged. Hormones and sun “As with genetically caused freckles, these are caused by an excess of the pigment melanin. In both cases of over-pigmentation, the dark spots are intensified by UV radiation,” explains Dr. Sonja Sattler, founder and senior physician at Bellari Rosenpark in Frankfurt and Hamburg. Hormones can also have a lot to do with the development of pigment spots. These are then known as melasma or chloasma and are common during pregnancy, menopause, or during a hormone treatment to increase fertility. It is not known exactly how hormones promote the development of spots, but it is a fact that the combination of hormones, sun and blue light as well as genetic predisposition is the trigger. Once the spots are there, they stubbornly remain, even after the hormone balance has levelled off again. Certain types of medication, such as some antibiotics or St. John’s Wort preparations, can also cause hyperpigmentation under UV influence. Prevention and treatment Dr. Sattler therefore advises: “Because UV light, in combination with our skin memory, is responsible for the unsightly spots, anyone with a tendency towards pigment spots should, in general, choose a skin care preparation with a high sun protection factor (e.g. SkinCeuticals Ultra Facial Defense 50+) for use during the day. If pigment spots are already visible and, depending on their severity, fruit acid peeling or laser combination treatments are suitable. “Bellari offers SkinCeuticals’ Pigment Balancing Peel as a professional cosmetic treatment. This is performed by trained beauticians who also provide recommendations for an appropriate follow-up care to achieve an optimal result. For more intensive effects, the most modern method is the fractionated laser. It can not only remove pigment spots, but red veins and wrinkles can be dealt with at the same time as well.… weiterlesen

We need the Sun…

Written by Margit RĂŒdiger on . Posted in Health & Beauty.

…but we must safeguard our skin from its rays as well. What is the most effective way to protect ourselves and what can be done if the UV rays have already caused skin damage. Our relationship to the sun is ambivalent. We love it because it warms us, brightens our mood and gives our complexion a beautiful color. On the other hand, every sunburn increases the risk of skin cancer. So, here’s a little test to see how well you know how to deal with the sun. Did you know? The sun protection factor (SPF) multiplied by the skin’s own protection time indicates the amount of time one can be in the sun without any skin damage being caused. For example: SPF 30 at 10 minutes self-protection time, i.e. 30 x 10, results in 300 sun minutes with regular reapplication of sunscreen. However, dermatologists recommend moving into the shade after two thirds of the maximum time. Self-protection is the period of time during which the skin can protect itself from the sun. Depending on the skin type, this ranges between 5 and 15 minutes in our latitudes. If a sunscreen product is used, it can be extended according to the SPF. The amount of product necessary to provide adequate protection is more than you may think: About two milliliters are needed per square centimeter of skin, which corresponds to three tablespoons for the whole body. “Sun terraces” such as the forehead, nose, ears, neck, shoulders, dĂ©colletĂ© and the arch of the foot usually need more. Sun cream should be applied every two hours. This is the only way to maintain the level of protection, as sweat, water and sand tend to remove the UV filters. It’s a common misconception, however, that that this prolongs the protective effect. Sun protection filters are distinguished by two operating principles: Mineral UV filters lie on the skin and reflect sunlight like small mirrors. They consist of natural, white pigments such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. Chemical UV filters penetrate the outer layer of the epidermis and absorb the rays. Benzone, trisiloxane or drometrizole, for example, are listed on the packaging. The UV rays have different wavelengths. While short-wave UV-B rays cause sunburn, long-wave UV-A contributes to skin ageing. The indicated sun protection factor (SPF) refers only to UV-B. For this reason, it’s advisable to look for the UV-A seal on the packaging. How does the expert protect herself?… weiterlesen

View the Outcome of Breast Augmentation Prior to the Operation

Written by Margit RĂŒdiger on . Posted in Cream.

A modern 3D simulation makes this possible Every woman who plans to have her breasts enlarged is curious to know what they will look like after the operation. Uncertainties often arise when choosing the implant size. Exactly what is the difference between 300 ml and 400 ml? Which implant shape suits me and will the result really look natural? With the Crisalix 3D simulation, these questions can now be answered visually even before the procedure takes place. Dr. Leonard Nenad Josipovic, breast augmentation and breast reduction/ breast lift expert at the Rosenpark Klinik in Darmstadt demonstrates how this works: “The 3D simulation consists of a 3D camera mounted on a tablet which is equipped with a corresponding App. I scan the patient with the camera and the App creates a 3D image. It takes only a few seconds; the simulation makes it possible to select different implant sizes and shapes and to see the individual result”. The outcome of the surgery can be seen in advance “The result can be seen immediately, even in the mirror. This allows the patient to get a feel for what her breasts will look like after the operation and which size and shape is right for her. The 3D image can be forwarded by email so that the patient can consult with her partner, friends or family. This also helps enormously with the decision-making.” Seven facts you should know about breast augmentation: 1. The goal: The aim of augmentation (breast enhancement) is a naturally enlarged breast without recognizable implants or an artificial appearance. The incision should be barely noticeable, and the new, enhanced breasts should have a tactile sensation similar to that of a natural breast. 2. Indication: Those suitable for breast augmentation are healthy, emotionally stable patients who have a realistic expectation regarding what can be achieved with a proper and precisely planned operation. Possible indications for breast augmentation are a) the aesthetic desire for larger breasts, b) breasts that are too small in relation to body size and weight, c) breasts of disproportionate sizes which can only be disguised by using bra inserts, and d) disorders such as the tubular breast that causes the breasts to have a “tubular” appearance. 3. The procedure: every patient’s body measurements, weight, breast and skin/soft tissue ratio are individual. Each operation, therefore, is a unique interaction of different components: the chosen surgical approach, the selected implant and, possibly, an accompanying measure such as an additional breast lift or nipple correction.… weiterlesen

A Summit Meeting of Beauty Experts

Written by Stephanie Neubert on . Posted in Health & Beauty.

500 doctors from the field of Aesthetic Medicine convene in Frankfurt for the “14th International Live Surgery Symposium” Wenn sich so viele nationale und internationale Schönheitsexperten zu einem When so many national and international beauty experts come together for a medical congress, it is a first-class opportunity to exchange first-hand information about the standards, trends and developments in the field of aesthetic medicine. The event was attended by top-level doctors of aesthetic dermatology, dermatosurgery and plastic surgery as well as journalists and representatives of the leading industry. The “14th International Live Surgery Symposium” (6-9 December) was held under the scientific direction of doctors Sonja and Gerhard Sattler as well as University Professor Dr. Maurizio Podda. The most outstanding feature of this Medical Congress was the real-time transmission of over 70 live treatments and operations from the Rosenpark Klinik in Darmstadt directly to the Sheraton Frankfurt Airport Hotel. This was a major advantage and the lively discussions which ensued gave participants the opportunity to exchange information about state-of-the-art treatments and the latest methods. The Symposium also provides an ideal platform for developing personal networks as well as exchanging experiences and new impulses in discussions and encounters with doctors from all over the world. Culture&Cream was there first hand. What is the future of aesthetic medicine? In addition to classical surgical methods such as the facelift, blepharoplasty (eyelid surgery) or liposuction, the focus at this Live Surgery Symposium was also on minimally invasive and non-invasive methods, procedures which have increased substantially in recent years. Safety and efficacy are top priorities here for physicians and patients alike and the choice of which technology is suitable for whom requires a broad spectrum of knowledge, experience and professional competence. Trends for the face In facial rejuvenation without the use of a scalpel, aesthetic combination procedures such as botulinum treatments, subcutaneous wrinkle injections with fillers, lasers, suture lifts, ultrasound and radiofrequency are becoming increasingly important. “In the field of aesthetic medicine, we are presently so far along with our accumulated experience that we can now offer patients much more than just a single surgical treatment. The minimally invasive spectrum enables the practitioner to achieve a similar, if not even better result within an individual combination of several procedures than with a single treatment,” said Congress President Dr. Sonja Sattler. Treatments such as micro-needling, for example, where the skin is stimulated with micro-fine needles to encourage collagen production, are combined with a hydra-facial treatment, which incorporates cleansing, moisturization and refining.… weiterlesen

Rosenpark Klinik – In the Center of Beauty

Written by Margit RĂŒdiger on . Posted in Cream.

From Facial Rejuvenation to Body Shaping 20 years ago, doctors Gerhard and Sonja Sattler laid the foundation of the Rosenpark Klinik in a rose-covered half-timbered house in Darmstadt. Today, boasting up to 12 specialists, it has become a competence centre for aesthetic-operative dermatology and plastic surgery. In the C&C interview Dr. Gerhard Sattler: What is your recipe for success? If you consider the changes in aesthetic medicine over the past 20 years, there’s not one stone left standing. The scientific and philosophical bases have constantly and fundamentally changed. By this we mean the treatment of the aesthetic patient, the development of various methods and the importance of aesthetics in today’s Zeitgeist. To continuously and successfully develop a clinic over the course of more than two decades, one must actively participate in these changes as well as helping to shape them. For my wife and I this means that, in order to provide patients with the best treatment options, ongoing training, writing textbooks, organising scientific Congresses and running a scientific Research Centre must necessarily be part of the clinic’s day-to-day activities. New methods show a clear trend towards non-invasive and minimally invasive procedures. Through the constant improvement of treatment techniques, these are equivalent or even superior to the major surgical operations of the past. It must be borne in mind that today’s patients are generally very well-informed and come to their doctor with specific questions. And the aesthetic physician must never forget one thing: He advises and coaches his patients so that, in contrast to medicine in the treatment of illnesses. the patient can come to an informed decision about choices and types of treatment. What distinguishes you from other Beauty Clinics? First of all, it should be emphasized that at the Rosenpark Klinik , work with patients is, from the very outset, exclusively focused on aesthetic issues. This specialisation is essential to guarantee high quality treatment as well as the patent’s safety. Since the individual key areas of aesthetic medicine and surgery have become considerably less differentiated, it was necessary to form a group of specialized aesthetic physicians. On the one hand, this ensures discipline-specific specialisation and, on the other, a close interdisciplinary exchange. The business form of the Rosenpark Klinik is just as important to us. To this day, the clinic is in the sole hands of the founding physicians. This distinguishes it from other clinics that, due to the active involvement of investors, are more focused on commercial considerations.… weiterlesen