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Tested for you: shi/dto „Face Serum Night“

Written by Margit Rüdiger on . Posted in #me.

I couldn’t pronounce the name before. shi/dto is Japanese and is pronounced schi do. The new skin care series doesn’t even come from the Far East, but is Made in Germany. The formulations are based on the latest biochemical technologies and were created in collaboration with top laboratories in the fields of biology, chemistry, biophysics and medicine. There are two series, “Make a Wish” for women and – less imaginative – “Men” for men. The goals are the same: to repair cell damage caused by e.g. B. cause fine lines, wrinkles, loss of elasticity and brown spots, and the protection of healthy skin against future damage from environmental influences. Agents of the night I concentrated on the “Hyperbolic Skin Firming Serum Night” (why only companies have to come up with such long names!) from the Supreme Revitalizing Night Care. Make a wish – my wish was that I only apply one care product in the evening and my skin wakes up the next morning without feeling tight. That has already worked with the night serum. It can be spread smoothly on the cleansed face and neck with just a few drops, is quickly absorbed and the skin feels well pampered. Deeper wrinkles, including one above my upper lip, should be treated more intensively. Done. The next morning my skin is silky smooth, not a hint of dryness, which is often noticeable on my side areas and on my cheeks.The three most important players in the serum are called ChroNOline, a new biomimetic tetrapeptide that ensures suppleness and firmness. The technical active ingredient Progeline DNA Agent is supposed to increase skin firmness, elasticity and viscoelasticity and counteract the sagging of the tissue. And last but not least, the tried and tested hyaluronic acid, which not only provides the skin with moisture, but also helps older, dull cells on the surface of the skin to loosen. After two weeks, the finest lines seem to have been minimized, and my skin is actually more radiant. Only the stupid, deep crease is still there! shi/dto „Supreme Revitalizing Hyperbolic Skin Firming Serum Night“ , 50 ml, ca 70 Euro… weiterlesen

No More Plastic in the Bathroom

Written by Margit Rüdiger on . Posted in Culture.

Between 4 and 13 million tons of plastic packaging waste end up in the oceans every year, writes the WWF on its blog. It can no longer be fished out and the material is particularly durable. Plastic takes several hundred years to decompose… But we don’t have that much time. The oceans are already among the dirtiest places in the world. Real plastic rubbish tsunamis made of bags, bottles, straws and toothbrushes flood the beaches. In every square kilometer of oceans there are already 46,000 pieces of plastic waste. Not all comes from cruise ships and container ships that illegally dump their rubbish into the sea. Or beach goers who leave their plastic waste lying around or throw it straight into the water. Much begins at home in our own four walls. Who thinks that environmental pollution starts in our washing machine? Synthetic fiber textiles lose around 2,000 tiny fibers with each wash cycle, which neither get caught in the machine’s sieve nor in sewage treatment plants. They get directly into the ocean. In addition, there are millions of microplastic particles from tire abrasion, plastic textiles or cosmetics such as peeling, toothpaste, shower gel and contact lens cleaners, which are transported onwards via rivers. And then there are the many plastic packaging that has to be disposed of. The prognoses are bleak. If we do nothing, there will be more plastic in the ocean than fish in 2050. By then, almost every sea bird could have what is often fatal “food” in its stomach. Recycling isn’t everything Not all plastic is recyclable – or is recycled. According to the ministry, around 45 percent of all plastic waste in Germany is “recycled”, i.e. not incinerated. Far too often, design takes precedence over the environment. Admittedly, the black colored detergent bottle, the foil-coated shampoo bottle already look pretty good. But that makes recycling difficult or even prevents it, because the machines cannot recognize and sort the material. Avoiding more and more plastic waste must therefore come first. Find out the bad ones Fortunately, we consumers are becoming more and more aware of the issue. If you want to be sure that you are buying plastic-free cosmetics, you have to use the products of a label for controlled natural cosmetics. Otherwise, the following applies: “Many care products contain plastic, either in particle form or in liquid form,” says Birgit Corall, owner of the two lines “cobicos” and “Living Nature“.… weiterlesen

Do you know the pH of your daily skin care?

Written by Margit Rüdiger on . Posted in Health & Beauty.

We have all heard of pH. At the latest when the doctor has measured it in the urine in order to check the acid-base balance. But very few of us know the skin pH, which is actually lower than in the body, and even less that of our skin care products. The pH level is an important parameter for the much-vaunted glow and health of our skin. As long as it doesn’t cause problems, who cares. But if redness, peeling and itching become noticeable, you should know what the pH value is like and, if necessary, reconsider your care habits. During my research, I discovered how seldom it is actually shown on products. But first a little more to understand: Back to school pH stands for “potential of hydrogen”), it is derived from the Latin word “potentia hydrogenii“. This differentiates alkalis from acids. The value scale ranges from 0 (acidic) to 14 (basic / alkaline. Neutral pure water is in the middle and has a pH of 7. Everything below that counts as acid, from 7 onwards the alkalis start. A pH value lower than 2 or higher than 12 must be understood as extremes that are harmful to the skin and can lead to chemical burns. This is what makes chemical peels – in this case the desired – effect. Lactic acid for example has a pH of 1.8. Where is water, there is a pH This also applies to the human body. If it consists of 95% water at birth, it is still almost 70% in adulthood, which corresponds to a water volume of approx. 43 liters. The skin has its own pH. According to the latest research, the healthy, so-called skin surface pH should reach 4.7 / 4.8. The previous average of 5.5 is considered out of date. An enormous challenge for cosmetics producers, because most products on the market are well above this value. In any case, the healthy environment of our skin is slightly acidic. Only then is it able to successfully ward off harmful microorganisms and other external environmental influences Just don’t irritate! The task of our skin care is to maintain this physiological acidity. But that’s when it often begins that we do too much of a good thing and unconsciously harm our skin rather than good. What does that mean exactly? Actually, you should avoid everything that dries them out, such as constant disinfection and frequent washing.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: medipharma cosmetics „Hyaluron Mizellen-Reinigungswasser“

Written by Margit Rüdiger on . Posted in #me.

When micellar tonics hit the market, it was a small revolution in the cleansing routine. The principle is old, soap is also based on it. You throw elongated molecules that are non-polar (water-repellent) on one side and polar (water-friendly) on the other into the polar water, then they form tiny spheres, the micelles (from Latin mica, lump). These act like a magnet by binding dirt and grease to themselves. The molecules contained in modern micellar water are patented surfactants that are particularly fat-dissolving. That is why they cleanse so effectively that you do not have to work on the skin with pressure or friction. A clear deal Indeed it is. I put the clear micellar water (only the bottle is blue!) on a cotton pad and gently run it over the face, neck and décolleté. It not only smells pleasantly pure and fresh, it also feels that way. Leftovers from my concealer, mascara and brow powder collect on the pad, as do sebum and the dirt from the day. The skin feels fresh and I don’t have to rub it to feel like it’s really cleansed. Double check: Nevertheless, I take another cotton pad and go over the face a second time with the micelle cleaner. The cotton wool stays white. The skin feels clean, moisturized (pharmaceutical hyaluronic acid) and well-groomed (panthenol). Rinse off is not necessary. There is also no feeling of tension, as I know it from other facial toners, because the product does not contain any alcohol. So I can continue with the rest of the day or evening routine immediately. By the way, I have found that make-up brushes can also be perfectly cleaned with it and after applying a self-tanner I use it to clean my hands. For me, “Hyaluronic Micellar Cleansing Water” is not just 3 in 1, but 5 in 1. medicos pharma „Hyaluronic Micellar Cleansing Water“, 200 ml, ca. 11 Euro… weiterlesen

Acquittal for Aluminum Deodorants

Written by Margit Rüdiger on . Posted in Health & Beauty.

Four years ago, the media was full of warnings about harmful ingredients in cosmetics. Parabens in creams that are supposed to trigger allergies, silicones in shampoo that damage hair and, above all, aluminum chloride in deodorants, which is said to cause cancer and promote Alzheimer’s disease. But to this day, the supposedly critical ingredients are controversially discussed by science and have even been partially rehabilitated. As a result of these negative reports, the “clean beauty” beauty trend has clearly gained momentum. Of the 500 brands in the range of the German cosmetics giant Douglas, around 40 are now clean beauty. According to the American market research company NPD, 46 percent of facial skincare users report purchasing products free of sulfates, phthalates and/or gluten, representing a 6 point up-tick over the past two years. “Clean” manufacturers do without questionable ingredients, including cyclic silicones, butyl and propyl parabens, sulfates and mineral oil, but do not exclude synthetic ingredients. This is exactly the difference to natural cosmetics, which are made exclusively from natural raw materials. If you want to believe the current report published by the British Soil Association Certification in February 2019, the niche trend has long since become mainstream. Above all, Millennials and Gen Z have given the organic cosmetics and wellness market a sustained high. Is everything else now “dirty beauty”? Much is based on so-called “fear marketing”, which suggests to the consumer that all products that have not made it into the clean beauty ranks are automatically questionable. Above all, this happened with aluminum deodorants. Aluminum salts are used in many deodorants. They block the flow of sweat and inhibit odor formation. But they have long been suspected of being able to promote the development of cancer, since the breast tissue is particularly exposed due to the proximity to the armpit. Researchers led by Stefano Mandriota from the University of Geneva showed it in experiments with mammary gland cells from mice. “We now know enough to say that aluminum salts are toxic,” said the cancer researcher in 2015. But nothing was definitely proven. The few studies on the topic even provided contradicting results in some cases. In 2017 the Medical University of Innsbruck published an epidemiological study in the specialist journal „EBioMedicine”. This showed the correlation between the very frequent use of deodorants containing aluminum several times a day, especially at a young age, and the possibly increased risk of developing breast cancer later.… weiterlesen

Parabens – Everything You Need to Know

Written by Margit Rüdiger on . Posted in Cream.

There is so much conflicting information about parabens, you’re probably wondering what to believe. That’s why we created this easy-to-navigate FAQ with all the facts. What is a paraben? Parabens are a class of preservatives used in food, skin care and personal care products. They are esters of parahydroxybenzoic acid. Use of parabens in cosmetic products has been declining with reformulations, however you can identify parabens within the ingredient listing on a product label. Common parabens are listed as Methylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Ethylparaben, Isopropylparaben or Propylparaben. Are parabens safe? Generally speaking, at the levels that they are used, parabens are considered to be safe. But there is a lot of controversy around this subject, specifically between paraben exposure, health effects and health risks and you’ll learn more as you read on. Why are parabens used? Parabens are used in beauty products, skin care, hair care and even some toothpastes and deodorants, to protect products (and you) from microbiological contamination. Preservation and product shelf life is extremely important when it comes to skin care products, especially moisturizers and creams used around the eyes. Bacterial contamination can cause severe irritation and can even lead to infection. Why are parabens controversial? In 2004, a study was released showing the presence of parabens in breast tumors. The online community quickly assumed that parabens cause cancer. The author later came forward and clarified that the intention of the study was to show that parabens can accumulate in the body intact, not that they cause breast cancer. However, by then, the damage was done, and the entire personal care industry had moved away from parabens. Are parabens harmless? Not entirely. Methylparaben is proven to accumulate in the skin and decrease cellular renewal, so it’s possible to disturb hormone function, triggering premature aging with continued use. Butylparaben has an estrogenic effect, acting as endocrine disruptors. They may bind to estrogen receptors, having unknown effects. Parabens, in general, are shown to sensitize the skin, especially when applied to damaged or broken skin. However, broken skin is already more sensitive, so this is not a surprising result. If I’m not concerned about sensitivity, should I use them? Are there other paraben dangers? The chemical structure of parabens may cause even the most adventurous product enthusiasts to opt out. For one, the paraben structure contains formaldehyde. Products sold in California that use parabens are required to display a Prop 65 warning, due to the presence of formaldehyde within the paraben chemical structure.… weiterlesen

For every Wrinkle the Right Hyaluronic Acid Filler

Written by Margit Rüdiger on . Posted in Cream.

The nasolabial fold bothers you? Or the little hanging cheeks? With the right hyaluronic acid fillers, wrinkles can be smoothed and contours improved – and thus completely natural-looking results can be achieved. What many do not know: It is not necessarily the annoying wrinkle that is treated, but a completely different part in order to get the desired result. Dr. Isabel Edusei, a specialist in plastic and aesthetic surgery from Berlin, explains what she means by modern filler treatments. Why is it no longer directly injected under the fold, but mostly treated with hyaluronic acid in completely different places? Dr. Isabel Edusei: The nasolabial fold is a very good example of this. It is an expression of a structural weakness in the cheek region. To put it simply: the soft tissue sinks here with the aging process, but is held up by a cord of connective tissue that extends from the nostril to the corner of the mouth. This results in a contour jump that we classically call the nasolabial fold. If we want to smooth this wrinkle, we have to treat the cause of what happened, that is, first fix the soft tissue on the zygomatic bone again and thus stabilize the midface. I use so-called structure fillers from the Vycross collection such as Voluma and Volux from Juvéderm. The term Vycross Technologie is based on a special, patented gel formulation that ensures that the filler is quickly integrated into the skin tissue and that the result can therefore appear particularly natural. Are there more such surprising effects? Yes, a lateral straightening of the eyebrows and upper eyelids can be achieved by working in the temple area. When the chin is raised, the neck tightens. And when hyaluronic acid filler is used on the lateral arch of the jaw approximately below the ears, the lateral lower jaw line tightens. Can individual areas such as the chin be treated specifically or should the entire face always be included? First of all, it is important to analyze exactly which areas of the face are suffering from structural weaknesses, what are the causes and how they can be treated. For example, a 20 year old woman may have problems in the same facial area as a 45 year old. The treatment in this case is identical and it does not always have to include the whole face. If there has not yet been any significant structural breakdown in the face, it is of course also possible to set special accents.… weiterlesen

Testet for you: Estée Lauder „Perfectionist Pro Aqua UV Gel SPF 50“


Written by Margit Rüdiger on . Posted in #me.

With UV filters, my skin has its problems. Depending on them more than they irritation speak small red spots and clogged pores. I would take that as proof of just how stressful chemical filter systems are on the skin. My beautician Julia has to fight the consequences every time again and again. But because uv protection is a must, I’ve tried countless products. Including mineral filters. Nearly none of them passed the test. If they don’t cause pimples, they leave white traces or an unsightly greasy sheen in the higher filter area, which I don’t even tolerate on the beach. For this reason, I was extremely excited about the new product from Estée Lauder’s Perfectionist series. So light on the skin The “Aqua UV-Gel” lives up to its name. The gel emulsion comes out of the tube whitish, but is water light and becomes immediately transparent when spread on the skin. In addition, it leaves the face with a pleasantly refreshing feeling of moisture. No ugly whitening effect despite SPF 50. The 100% mineral-based light protection creates a silky veil that protects the skin from UVA / UVB exposure. The light glow makes the complexion beautifully summery. Anti-irritants like algae extract and caffeine prevent stains and blemishes. They help my skin feel relaxed and calm. What I also like is that the gel formula not only prevents UV damage, but is also equipped with eight anti-oxidants such as tiger lily extract, vitamins C and E, resveratrol and green tea extract. As a result, the skin is protected from environmental pollution such. B. effectively protected by ozone, smoke, infrared and fine dust. I’ve been using the Aqua Gel for four weeks now and applied it every morning as the last step in my skin care routine.No sticky feeling, no clogged pores. I’m curious what my beautician will say at our next appointment. Estée Lauder “Perfectionist Pro Aqua UV Gel SPF 50“, 30 ml, 45 US $… weiterlesen

Antioxidants – why we can’t do without

Written by Margit Rüdiger on . Posted in Health & Beauty.

A topic that is in the truest sense of the word brand new in these sunny months: free radicals and their antioxidants. Even without sunburn, UV radiation can create huge amounts of free radicals in the skin. In order to combat these extremely aggressive cell destroyers effectively, antioxidants from the inside and outside are required. If we would qualify free radicals exclusively as “bad”, that would be wrong. It is not for nothing that the body produces it itself during various metabolic processes. He needs them, for example, so that the immune system can keep bacteria, viruses or inflammatory press under control. Normally, the human body’s defense mechanisms are equipped to deal with a certain excess of free radicals. But our modern lifestyle is overwhelming. In addition to UV radiation, alcohol, smoking, the inhalation of environmental toxins and even blue light from smartphones, tablets and the like all promote the formation of these molecules that damage the cells. The body’s own defense system can no longer adequately eliminate the aggressors. Oxidative stress occurs. The cells become inoperable. Not only premature aging of the skin, but many health problems begin with it. Desperately looking for an electron If you want to understand the importance of antioxidants, you have to understand how free radicals work. The chemical structure of these oxygen-containing molecules is unstable because they lack an electron. In their search for a replacement they are extremely aggressive and extremely fast. It only takes 10-11 seconds (0.000 000 000 01 seconds) to find a suitable binding partner. They snatch the required electron from this intact molecule, which can be from the cell membrane, from a protein or from DNA. This electron robbery is known as oxidation. A chain reaction starts. The stolen molecule is now also a free radical and is looking for a victim. The higher the concentration of these killer molecules, the more massive the oxidative stress and the damage in the body. Depending on which molecules are affected, cell functions are impaired, and if the membrane is damaged, even cell death occurs. With DNA damage, uncontrolled cell division (development of cancer) is the result. And much more. The radical scavengers The power of antioxidants is that they make free radicals inactive and thus harmless. How? They add the missing electron to them. These radical scavengers are divided into five groups: vitamins, minerals, enzymes, trace elements and secondary plant substances (phytochemicals).… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Less is More „Phytonutrient Caffeine Infusion“

Written by Margit Rüdiger on . Posted in #me.

Anti-aging is still a tiresome problem. But no one is spared. And not only when it comes to the skin. Hair also ages when the roots and scalp slowly get tired. They become thinner, drier and unruly white. The Austrian brand Less is More has dedicated itself to the subject of hair anti-aging – with two organic certification (“Peta” / “Cosmos Organic”). Scalp rejuvenation Now I am blessed with an abundant amount of hair myself. But even those sometimes lack vigor, which suggests tired follicles. I also notice how my scalp reacts increasingly bitchy, especially to chemical treatments at the hairdresser. Say she is somehow out of whack. That’s why I wanted to know whether the “Caffeine Infusion” can help me too. For six weeks now I have been giving a few puffs a day on the scalp, parting part at a time, which I then massage in with my fingers in a circular motion. I do the same thing as the last step after every hair wash, because the product should not be washed out, but should remain on the scalp. The liquid, which smells pleasantly of herbs, feels light and fresh like a toner and does not burden the hair. They can be styled as usual. Green caffeine and coffee extract have an anti-oxidative effect, while the candle bush (Cassia Alata) has a natural anti-aging effect with UV protection. In fact, my hair has lost less color in the sun. I am particularly surprised, however, at how much more stability every single hair has got. What about my scalp? It feels amazingly healthy and revitalized – no more itching, no dryness and no more feeling of tension. You can invest a few sprays every day for that, I mean. Because nothing is forever. If you stop the treatment, the original condition will be restored after six weeks. Keep on spraying! Less is More, Phytonutrient Caffeine Infusion“, 100 ml, 37 Euro… weiterlesen