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Polyphenols, The Secret Power Of Olives

Written by Margit Rüdiger on . Posted in Health & Beauty.

Everyone always talks about vitamins, minerals and trace elements when it comes to health and healthy nutrition. But polyphenols, i.e. secondary plant compounds, have much more power. What hardly anyone knows is that they are particularly abundant in olive press water, whose health aspect was only researched a few years ago. Secondary plant compounds, as the name suggests, are found exclusively in plants. Polyphenols are the most important group. They are mainly found in the marginal layers of fruits, vegetables and grains, where they provide the color and flavor of the food. But that is by no means all. These bioactive substances mainly serve as a defense against pests and insects and offer the plant protection against UV light. Whole grains, vegetables and many fruits, including olives or berries, are particularly abundant in polyphenols. “Under the term polyphenols, scientists summarize a variety of substances,” explains Sabine Häberlein, graduate nutritionist (Dipl. oec. troph.) and herbal expert (essen-einfach-anders.de) in Munich. “Common to them is a chemical structure: the phenol ring. To these secondary plant materials count for example also the Flavanoid Quercetin (particularly much contained in yellow onions and in kale). the flavanoids anthocyanins (red fruits and vegetables), phenolic acids (kale, whole wheat), hydroxycinnamic acid caffeic acid (coffee, potato, lemon balm), curcumin (turmeric), capsaicin (chili), coumarins (woodruff, cassia cinnamon) and phytoestrogens (soybeans, cereals, red clover).” Acqua mora as the Italians call it However, it is not the olive itself that contains the largest proportion of the power substance, but the vegetation water that is produced during pressing or oil production. In the past, it was disposed of as a waste product. Gianni from the Lo Franco family, who founded the Fattoria La Vialla near Arezzo and thus introduced biodynamic farming to Italy, says: “Our most important discovery was that the otherwise unnoticed vegetation water of the olives is not a waste product of oil production, but a valuable, very healthy by-product. Our great-grandmother Caterina always knew that. She liked to tell how good the olive water did her, the dark and bitter ‘acqua mora’ as it is called in Italy.” Bitter elixir of health Every year from mid-October to early December, the oil mill at the Fattoria never stands still. Day and night the freshly harvested olives are pressed within 6-12 hours. For some years now, the vegetation water from the olives and their pit is collected during pressing. A centrifuge separates it from the oil.… weiterlesen

Glycation: Don’t Let Yourself Get Sugared Up!

Written by Margit Rüdiger on . Posted in Cream.

Scientists call glycation the “saccharification” of tissue components. In the skin, collagen and elastin are particularly affected. Stiffened fibers mean that the skin visibly loses tone and elasticity, especially in the areas of the cheeks and chin, and ages more quickly overall. An effective means of reversing this process does not yet exist – although some cosmetics manufacturers promise it. One small consolation: prevention can prevent worse. Glycation? How does it actually occur? Chemically, the body reacts with proteins or lipids and forms so-called AGEs (Advanced Glycation Endproducts). We don’t even have to constantly snack on sweets to do this. We absorb the glycation end products mainly via glucose and fructose, but also in fried, grilled, roasted or baked food. The AGEs are mainly contained in the brown outer layer that forms when food is heated, such as roast skin or bread crust. Even with burnt milk, a reaction of protein and fat molecules with sugar molecules, i.e. glycation, takes place. This was proven by the French biochemist Louis Maillard in 1912. The same process takes place in our organism when excessive amounts of sugar enter the bloodstream. The only difference is that it happens much more slowly than in an overheated milk pot, because our body temperature is also lower. The fact that blood sugar shoots up during an overload of sweets is due to the fact that this excess cannot be excreted via the kidneys. Glycation damages the organism AGEs not only cause the skin to age faster. Hyperglycemia triggers a wide variety of diseases. It promotes cardiovascular disease by clogging the arteries. It is also involved in diabetes, osteoporosis, arthritis and chronic kidney disease. Increased AGE concentrations have even been detected in cataracts and in the brains of Alzheimer’s patients. But back to the skin. There, the sugar-protein compounds coat the collagen and elastin fibers. As a result, these structural proteins stiffen and lose their ability to form healthy, new cells. As a result, fine lines and wrinkles remain visible because the skin can no longer compensate for them naturally and also stores less moisture. It looks sallower and overall older, less firm and elastic. The dreaded sagging also sets in much earlier than biologically intended. Check for the glycemic index The WHO (World Health Organization) recommends a daily sugar ration for adults that does not exceed five percent of the total calories. This corresponds, for example, to two apples, or one apple plus 100 grams of berries, 200 grams of whole grain rice.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Natural lipstick from marie w.

Written by Margit Rüdiger on . Posted in #me.

With natural lipsticks, I am always somewhat reluctant to buy. They usually lack color brilliance and intensity, especially with red tones. Therefore, I was curious how the new color “Rosentango” by Marie W. looks on my lips. A few more words about marie w. The founder behind is Maria Wißler. She describes herself as a quality fanatic and pioneer when it comes to plants, animals and cosmetics. 22 years of pioneering work for natural cosmetics lie behind her. After “green” studies, she founded the first mail-order natural cosmetics business. Her principles are still valid for her today: care with plant extracts, preferably from organic cultivation, free from synthetic preservatives and petroleum chemicals. Her raw materials, such as organic shea royale from Uganda or organic argan oil from Morocco, come from fair trade sources. In this way, she supports women’s projects in the respective countries. When it comes to her lipsticks, Marie Wißler is also committed to sustainable business, protection of the environment, nature and climate, and fair and social production conditions. The natural lipsticks contain only a few, but highly pure ingredients. Real gold, for example, and precious, hand-pressed organic vegetable oil from African fair trade women’s projects. The pencils are packaged in an environmentally friendly manner in sleeves made of the renewable raw materials wood and paper. The brochure is printed with mineral oil-free inks. A combination of highly pure iron oxides, as found in the earth, is used for the colors of the pencils.noxide verwendet, wie sie in der Erde vorkommen. Natural lipsticks with real gold But back to “Tangorose”. The first thing that strikes me is that the application is easy. The pencil is designed so that I do not need a contour pencil, which I usually use. So I trace the mouth contour with the pen tip and then paint the entire surface of the lips with color. I’m surprised at how intense the red tone turns out. It also feels feather-light on the lip skin and is perfectly blended with the natural tint after 1-2 minutes. The gold content in the texture gives a matte shine without being obtrusive. It also creates a pleasantly cool feeling on the lips and, together with the nourishing plant oils, acts as a moisturizer. The natural lipstick also passes the durability test with flying colors. It’s long-lasting and stays where it should be, namely on the lips. It neither settles in the lip wrinkles, nor on cups, glasses or the cheeks rather friends.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: BB Cream „Super BB au Ginseng“ from Erborian

Written by Margit Rüdiger on . Posted in #me.

The BB cream of the Korean brand promises a complexion like “photoshopped”. Sounds promising. In general, I find the concept of the Asian care label extremely interesting. It makes use of the herbs of the Orient, and the purely natural active ingredients are obtained in traditional processes. In the new BB cream, ginseng is the main active ingredient. More precisely, white ginseng and fermented ginseng flowers in one formula. Ginseng, the Asian miracle roottische Wunderwurzel Ginseng has a long tradition in Chinese medicine. The root has been used for thousands of years to strengthen the body’s defenses. Responsible for the effect are the ginsenosides, which are said to have blood sugar-lowering properties, among other things. It is known as a proven tonic to strengthen the immune system, is said to fight fatigue, help against fatigue and prevent a cold. But also as far as the skin is concerned, ginseng is considered a real miracle weapon for a younger appearance due to its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It stimulates the general skin functions and is even said to have a firming effect by boosting the collagen production. BB Cream – half skincare, half makeup “Super BB au Ginseng is half skincare, half makeup. I apply a small amount of BB in the middle of the face after my serum and blend it outwards. The product is so nourishing that I can do without the day cream. And the look is just super. In fact, “Super BB” evens out the complexion and covers small blemishes like pigmentation spots and redness. Skin feels well hydrated all day and is protected from UV damage with SPF 20 (100% mineral sun filters). To visibly reduce impurities such as pimples, pores and blackheads, the formula has been enriched with Niacinamide. The vitamin B3 or niacin is known as a powerful active ingredient for clear skin. What I particularly like is the very pleasant, light texture. It does not “weigh down” the skin like foundation sometimes do, but leaves a natural, velvety finish. You could almost say that the “Super BB” has a baby skin effect. I also appreciate that there is a 15 ml version to try. „Super BB au Ginseng“ from Erborian, 40 ml, 51,50 US$… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Bronzing Collection „Sunshine Memories“ from Artdeco

Written by Margit Rüdiger on . Posted in #me.

I love Italy. That’s why I was immediately drawn to the bronzing collection – because of its packaging in cobalt blue and brown. It reminds me of the wonderful ceramic and terracotta objects from the Italian town of Ostuni in Puglia. Ostuni is also known as “Città Bianca” – the white city in Italy. All the houses except the churches are whitewashed. In the narrow streets, spanned by many arches, with their often confusing interlocking houses with many outside staircases, one feels a touch of the Orient. Bronzing all year The bronzing collection includes everything you need for a radiant summer complexion. I was particularly enthusiastic about the design bronzer “Ceramic Work of Art”, which is composed of three different colors. Therefore, it is ideal to use at any time of year and for every complexion individually. The shades can be used individually or together. The best way, of course, is with a thick brush. The rather subtle pearl pigments contained in the powder reflect the light, giving the skin a natural glow. What often bothers me about bronzing powders is the darkening during the day. Here, the color remains as you applied it in the morning. Velvety and long-lasting. Vitamin E has an additional nourishing effect and prevents an unpleasant feeling of dryness. Shimmer made to measure If you just want a touch of freshness on the cheeks, use the vegan “Bronzing Blush”, also three colors with a slight shimmer. And then there is the Glow Bronzer, bronzing powder and highlighter in one. The high content of mineral mica pigments provides a pleasant glow. All powders are free of mineral oil, parabens and perfume. For the complete look in the make-up bag, there is also a vegan volume mascara in a limited design with a ceramic look. Bronzing-Kollektion „Sunshine Memories“ from Artdeco, from 23 Euro… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Sun Care from medipharma cosmetics

Written by Margit Rüdiger on . Posted in #me.

What does sun care have to do with corals? Plenty. Although Italian marine biologists commissioned by the EU Commission found as early as 2008 that some ingredients in sunscreens damage the genetic material of corals and fish, not all manufacturers pay attention to this. According to a study by the University of Bologna, peak levels are now being reached in the Adriatic Sea. Mainly responsible are the UV filters oxybenzone, octinoxate and octocrylene contained in numerous European UV protection products. Sun care: 4000 to 6000 tons end up in the sea Every year, 4000 to 6000 tons of sunscreen end up in the oceans along popular snorkeling and bathing coasts. What exactly do they do there? They interfere with the metabolism of coral polyps and can lead to the death of the reefs. In addition, the filter chemicals are difficult to break down and accumulate in numerous marine plants and animals. Ultimately, they end up in our food chain. Some UV filters are also suspected of being hormonally active in the human body. Strictly forbidden In the meantime, several vacation paradises have issued strict bans to protect the oceans, which primarily affect the UV filters oxybenzone and octinoxate, which are particularly harmful to corals. In Mexico, the Pacific island state of Palau and the state of Hawaii, such sunscreen products may no longer be used. Those who violate the law can expect heavy fines. But even if you are going to other areas on vacation, you should read the contents list of your sun care products carefully beforehand, and make sure that they do not contain the substances oxybenzone, octinoxate and octocrylene. Exemplary sunscreen The Hyaluron Sun Care from medipharma cosmetics does not contain any of these environmentally hazardous substances. The UVA and UVB filter system is formulated so that it is also suitable for sensitive skin and is not hormonally active. What I find particularly pleasant about the products for face, body and lips is that they are quickly absorbed and hydrate the skin. Due to the formula, which is based on pharmaceutical hyaluronic acid, the skin does not dry out in the sun and is protected from premature aging. The products are also free of parabens nor mineral oils. Hyaluron sun care from medipharma cosmetics, from 11 Euro… weiterlesen

Skin Oils Cause More Harm than Benefit

Written by Margit Rüdiger on . Posted in Cream.

Oils for skin and hair care have long been in vogue. Almost every cosmetic brand has one in its range. Body oils are particularly popular in winter, because they give the skin a warm, cozy hygge feeling. But not all of them are good for the skin. It is impossible to imagine wellness massages without oils, they support the pampering aspect. However, there are differences. In the field of cosmetic applications, a distinction is made between fatty, so-called base or carrier oils, and essential oils. Good base oils are natural, cold-pressed vegetable oils, for example from olives. They are not only a popular cream base, but can also be used pure. Since their composition is similar to that of natural skin oils, they are considered skin-friendly. The situation is different with essential oils. These are water vapor volatile, only slightly oily extracts from plants. They are primarily used for their aroma. Everyone knows lavender oil. Fatty Petroleum What distinguishes high-quality natural oils? They need neither emulsifiers nor preservatives or any chemical additives. This is guaranteed with native oils in organic quality. With ready-made blends, you should take a closer look at the ingredients. Inexpensive products often contain mineral oil (INCI: Paraffinum Liquidum), a fat derived from petroleum. They are declared as Liquid petrolatum, Paraffin oil, Petrolatum liquid, Petroleum oil, White mineral oil and White oil. Vaseline (petrolatum) belongs to the same family, only its texture is not liquid but waxy. Petroleum is a popular raw material for inexpensive mass production – cheap, easy to process. Unlike vegetable oils, petroleum products also have a long shelf life and consistent quality. Vegetable oils are sensitive. They react with light, air and heat, can quickly become rancid, and the quality can vary. The mineral oil used for cosmetics comes from petroleum, which in turn develops from the remains of plankton and algae and is exposed to high pressure and temperatures in the earth’s crust. When it is extracted from the earth for use in skin care products or medicines, it is purified to a particularly high degree so that not much of the original material remains. However, vegetable oils are also purified before they are applied to the skin. If you ask your body, petroleum is a foreign substance for it, which forms a kind of film on the skin and immediately seals the surface. In this way, water loss is stopped and the skin feels nice and soft for the time being.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: „Ultra Light Sun Block SPF 50+“ from Team Dr. Joseph

Written by Margit Rüdiger on . Posted in #me.

About this Sun Block I was particularly excited, because I simply love the products from Team Dr. Joseph. Since 1986, they have been a successful symbiosis of high-tech and nature. Here, technological know-how is combined with highly effective, natural raw materials. And the people behind them are simply likeable. I got to know and appreciate the founder Dr. Joseph Franz and his sons myself in South Tyrol. UV protection without whitening effect It was therefore a special pleasure to try out the new product, a sunscreen for summer and winter, myself. Especially with UV protection with factor 50+ I am very critical. Mostly I am bothered by the well-known whitening effect of mineral UV filters (“inorganic” or “physical filters”). These are usually mineral white pigments (e.g. zinc or titanium), which lie on the skin like small mirrors and reflect the UV light. In addition, many of these products feel heavy and pappy already when applied. In this respect, the “Ultra Light Sun Block” with SPF 50+ has positively surprised me. The cream comes delicately liquid from the dispenser, is light, absorbs super quickly and does not whiten the surface. The skin neither feels dry nor shines unpleasantly. Because biotechnological hyaluronic acid provides intense moisture, it can smooth wrinkles and fine lines. Also protects from Blue Light You can tell that the product is not a “quick fix”. Four years of intensive research and development have gone into the innovative combination of different sun filters. It offers broadband protection against UVA and UVB rays and also protects against the harmful effects of artificial light (HEV rays). High Energy Visible – i.e. high-energy visible light – often referred to as Blue Light, is what we consume every day via cell phone, tablet or computer. But these are by no means all the high-tech natural goodies that are contained in the light Sun Block: Wild carrot can prevent premature skin aging, has a firming effect, protects cells, soothes and is rich in vitamins. Just like tocopherol (natural vitamin E), sea buckthorn is considered an effective antioxidant, which also supports collagen production and thus has a smoothing effect. Also a radical scavenger, even with anti-blue-light effect, is butterfly bush. Allantoin and mallow soothe and smooth the skin, making it supple. It is best to apply the UV protection over the day cream to the face, neck and décolleté all year round, as required. Always allow the day cream to absorb well first.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Primer „Le Privilège Base Traitante“ from Rivoli

Written by Margit Rüdiger on . Posted in #me.

I usually don’t use foundation because I don’t like the feeling that something is “on” my skin, and that’s why I don’t need a primer. At least that’s what I thought so far. But the “Base Traitante” is a 2-in-1 product – tinting and skin care in one. A polyphenolic molecule activates the natural defense mechanisms to protect against UV radiation. As a hyaluronic acid precursor, it promotes the production of hyaluronic acid molecules that are naturally present in our skin. So I start my test. Is the primer too light or too dark? After cleaning and day care, I apply the primer for the first time in the morning. The tinted texture looks quite dark in the elegant and heavy cylindrical glass bottle. Too dark for me? But when I pump it on my fingertips, my impression changes into the opposite. The primer might be too light for my more Mediterranean skin. Nevertheless, I distribute it evenly on the face. The light, creamy fluid is easy to spread. The amount withdrawn is sufficient. The Rivoli product is quite economical. Already an advantage considering the price. Also applied on my face and well distributed, the result appears to me quite light, as if the layer would remain on top of the skin without merging with it. I’m waiting. But after a short time the primer is absorbed and has adapted perfectly to my natural skin tone. Amazing! There is also no such thing as a heavy make-up feeling. To check the optical result better, I stand by the window with the morning sun with a magnifying mirror in my hand to see what the tint looks like in daylight. Natural and radiant For me this is a particularly important aspect, because that is the face that I want to present to my environment. The skin should look bare and shine. Even if I don’t use a foundation, I still want to flaunt a refined and even complexion. And that is exactly what the primer does. It smooths and immediately gives the complexion a fresher radiance. The skin looks hydrated and comfortably plumped. Bien fait! With regular use, “Le Privilège Base Traitante” should even remove redness and minimize pores. „Le Privilège Base Traitante“ from Rivoli, 50 ml, 205 Euro… weiterlesen

Product Choice: Is Expensive Always the Best?

Written by Margit Rüdiger on . Posted in Cream.

That is the question if you buy a cosmetic or skincare article. But does this calculation actually work? Luxury products are elegant, noble, recognizable. With the packaging alone, I express that I spoil myself and can afford it. In contrast, cheaper products usually come with a simpler presentation. But even if the eye is less attracted, does that mean you have to accept less quality when it comes to the content? Cosmetics companies invest millions in research – and later also in advertising – and these have to be amortized somehow. Often the consumer pays an overpriced price for patented formulas or in-house developments of innovative or rare ingredients. But there is almost always a lack of scientific evidence that these are actually more effective and worth their price. And you also have to be clear about this: There is no such thing as a unique active ingredient that keeps the skin young and healthy. Rather, there are countless substances that can affect the skin’s metabolism. Product choice: natural versus synthetic Whether a brand relies on high-tech molecules from the laboratory or on plant substances from nature is primarily a question of image and the target group of buyers. Because a self-confessed user of natural cosmetics will never let chemicals on his skin. Nevertheless, a quick note on the term “natural”: Such substances are not necessarily better than the synthetic alternatives that are produced in a laboratory, or even differ from them “Of course is a classic marketing word,” says Benjamin Knight Fuchs, pharmacist and founder of the US skincare Truth Treatment Systems. “For a chemist, there is nothing natural. The body doesn’t differentiate between natural and synthetic, it’s all about the molecular structure. When I take vitamin C (from nature) or make it in my laboratory, it’s the same molecule. I look on the ingredients to see if the body recognizes them.” Usually several ingredients are necessary for a product to work anyway. The minimalism trend with fewer ingredients, which is particularly recommended for sensitive skin, does not necessarily suit every skin type. Also in terms of the concentration of an ingredient. It is more likely that an expensive cream will contain a higher proportion of it. If a big player brings a new active ingredient onto the beauty market, which is then referred to in advertising as “revolutionizing the skincare market”, its path to the cream pots is mapped out.… weiterlesen