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Testet for you: EstĂ©e Lauder „Perfectionist Pro Aqua UV Gel SPF 50“‹

With UV filters, my skin has its problems. Depending on them more than they irritation speak small red spots and clogged pores. I would take that as proof of just how stressful chemical filter systems are on the skin. My beautician Julia has to fight the consequences every time again and again. But because uv protection is a must, I’ve tried countless products. Including mineral filters. Nearly none of them passed the test. If they don’t cause pimples, they leave white traces or an unsightly greasy sheen in the higher filter area, which I don’t even tolerate on the beach. For this reason, I was extremely excited about the new product from EstĂ©e Lauder’s Perfectionist series. So light on the skin The “Aqua UV-Gel” lives up to its name. The gel emulsion comes out of the tube whitish, but is water light and becomes immediately transparent when spread on the skin. In addition, it leaves the face with a pleasantly refreshing feeling of moisture. No ugly whitening effect despite SPF 50. The 100% mineral-based light protection creates a silky veil that protects the skin from UVA / UVB exposure. The light glow makes the complexion beautifully summery. Anti-irritants like algae extract and caffeine prevent stains and blemishes. They help my skin feel relaxed and calm. What I also like is that the gel formula not only prevents UV damage, but is also equipped with eight anti-oxidants such as tiger lily extract, vitamins C and E, resveratrol and green tea extract. As a result, the skin is protected from environmental pollution such. B. effectively protected by ozone, smoke, infrared and fine dust. I’ve been using the Aqua Gel for four weeks now and applied it every morning as the last step in my skin care routine.No sticky feeling, no clogged pores. I’m curious what my beautician will say at our next appointment. EstĂ©e Lauder “Perfectionist Pro Aqua UV Gel SPF 50“, 30 ml, 45 US $… weiterlesen

Antioxidants – why we can’t do without

A topic that is in the truest sense of the word brand new in these sunny months: free radicals and their antioxidants. Even without sunburn, UV radiation can create huge amounts of free radicals in the skin. In order to combat these extremely aggressive cell destroyers effectively, antioxidants from the inside and outside are required. If we would qualify free radicals exclusively as “bad”, that would be wrong. It is not for nothing that the body produces it itself during various metabolic processes. He needs them, for example, so that the immune system can keep bacteria, viruses or inflammatory press under control. Normally, the human body’s defense mechanisms are equipped to deal with a certain excess of free radicals. But our modern lifestyle is overwhelming. In addition to UV radiation, alcohol, smoking, the inhalation of environmental toxins and even blue light from smartphones, tablets and the like all promote the formation of these molecules that damage the cells. The body’s own defense system can no longer adequately eliminate the aggressors. Oxidative stress occurs. The cells become inoperable. Not only premature aging of the skin, but many health problems begin with it. Desperately looking for an electron If you want to understand the importance of antioxidants, you have to understand how free radicals work. The chemical structure of these oxygen-containing molecules is unstable because they lack an electron. In their search for a replacement they are extremely aggressive and extremely fast. It only takes 10-11 seconds (0.000 000 000 01 seconds) to find a suitable binding partner. They snatch the required electron from this intact molecule, which can be from the cell membrane, from a protein or from DNA. This electron robbery is known as oxidation. A chain reaction starts. The stolen molecule is now also a free radical and is looking for a victim. The higher the concentration of these killer molecules, the more massive the oxidative stress and the damage in the body. Depending on which molecules are affected, cell functions are impaired, and if the membrane is damaged, even cell death occurs. With DNA damage, uncontrolled cell division (development of cancer) is the result. And much more. The radical scavengers The power of antioxidants is that they make free radicals inactive and thus harmless. How? They add the missing electron to them. These radical scavengers are divided into five groups: vitamins, minerals, enzymes, trace elements and secondary plant substances (phytochemicals).… weiterlesen

Summer cocktails that are also good for the skin

In these hot days, cool drinks have high season. Why not mix something that not only tastes delicious but also benefits the skin? Here are two summer recipes from dietary supplements to try out. I have already reported on Regulatpro Hyluron in previous stories. I always take the cascade-fermented regulatory essence as a cure when my skin looks tired and can once again tolerate a moisture booster from the inside – like now in summer with lots of sun and dry heat. But why not combine the useful with the pleasant? That’s why I made a summer berry smoothie with hyaluronic acid based on a recipe from German nutritionist Adaeze Wolf (check out her blog Naturally Good). What you need for the berry smoothie: 200 g berries (raspberries, currants, blueberries)1/2 pineapple1 piece of fresh ginger (about the size of a thumb)1 sliced ​​apple1 sprig of mint2-3 ice cubes500 ml of water1 shot of Regulatpro Hyaluron The preparation is very simple: You cut the pineapple and ginger (peel beforehand) into pieces. Put in the blender along with the other ingredients and mix well. Fill into glasses and add the ice cubes. Enjoy it immediately! The little hottie My second tip for everyone who likes it a little spicier: a Mochi_ to, alcohol-free of course, from the chi _ by Ringana. In addition to ginger and ginseng root extract, it contains lots of useful nutritional supplements as well as natural caffeine and vitamin C from the acerola fruit. The taste is slightly sour and spicy. What you need for the Mochi_ _to:: 8 mint leaves2 cl lemon juiceMineral waterIce cubes1 bottle of Ringana chi_ _ (30 ml) To prepare, put the mint and lemon juice in a glass with ice cubes. Then pour in the chi_ , and finally top up everything with mineral water. If I like it a little spicier and don’t feel like mixing or don’t have the necessary ingredients at hand, I just put two ice cubes in a glass and pour the chi _ with it. Salud! Also delicious and it fits in every season: Pour a chi_ _ portion over the already cut fruit salad and mix in as a dressing.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Augustinus Bader „The Cream Cleansing Gel“

I have to admit that I am very benevolent to Professor Augustinus Bader. Not only he is one of the globally recognized leaders in stem cell biology. He is just an outstanding personality, a very humane, responsible person as I found out in an interview with him. As head of stem cell research at the University of Leipzig, he spent 30 years focused on perfecting the healing process and uncovered how to reawaken these cells, which go dormant over time due to aging or trauma. He clearly explains to me what makes many skin care products lie, “that you can’t add stem cells to your skin, you can only wake up the inactive cells in your body.” Professor Bader’s mission started with the intention to help burn victims, particularly children with traumatic injuries. In 2008, he formulated a groundbreaking wound gel that heals even third-degree burns without surgery or skin grafts. It works by carrying a set of healing signals to the site of the wound or burn, triggering the damaged skin cells and facilitating perfect healing. This gave him his idea for skin care with the patented TFC8Âź (Trigger Factor Complex) technology. His approach: what helps damaged skin can only do good skin good.In 2018, he launched a single product – „The Cream“ – with the goal to leave the skin smoother and regenerated. It was followed by “The Rich Cream” and a body cream. A complete care line should be out by the end of this year. Cleansing without feeling tense All Bader products are based on the Trigger Factor Complex (TFC8Âź). It consists of natural amino acids, high-quality vitamins and synthesized molecules that also occur in the skin. This guides important nutrients and powerful natural ingredients into the skin cells, creating an optimal environment for the body’s natural repair and regeneration processes. And because beautiful skin starts with a thorough cleansing, the first thing I decided to do was “The Cream Cleasing Gel”. What comes out of the dispenser in a good dose is a white cream-gel texture. It feels light and fresh on the skin. No fragrances are included. The smell is pleasantly natural, maybe a little „medicinal“. Emulsified with water, it does not develop foam, which I like. The eye and waterproof brow make-up can also be easily removed without burning your eyes. And most importantly, normally my skin tends to feel uncomfortable after cleaning, so I can’t apply a serum or cream quickly enough.… weiterlesen

Are you Suffering from Maskne?

This is not a stupid misspelling, but the latest international term related to the corona pandemic. Mask-ne consists of the two words mask and acne and describes a skin problem that can affect everyone – women and men. The street scene worldwide is dominated by masks. They are now available as fashion accessories with the most unusual patterns and colors. Unfortunately, the skin underneath often looks less beautiful. The problem is called Masken. It is used to describe the skin irritations and pimples that spread under the fabric. This is due to the so-called occlusion effect. The mask prevents sweat and heat from being released normally by the skin and evaporates. Instead, heat builds up, causing the horny layer to swell. This makes it more permeable to pollutants. The moisture that favors this bacterial formation also reduces the permeability of the mask, which makes breathing more difficult. Especially in summer, when you sweat more anyway, this skin irritation can increase.In addition, the sebum gland activity increases, which in turn can be a breeding ground for bacteria and consequent impurities. A kind of perioral dermatitis develops, a rash around the mouth. This is not acne in the classic sense, but rather an acne mechanica that has mechanical triggers like the friction of fabric. It is known from football players who have to wear a helmet with a chin strap for many hours and then have inflammation and irritation at this point, which can lead to clogged pores and deep acne cysts. “We also observed cases of mask, a dermatitis caused by wearing a mask, during the SARS epidemic,” says Dr. Michelle Henry, dermatologist in New York. Increased hormone releases such as the stress hormone cortisol can also play a role because it stimulates the sebaceous glands and thus also provokes acne. And who is not stressed during this time! A worldwide problem In the current Covid19 times, the maskne phenomenon can be observed globally. American nurses report how their skin has deteriorated since the constant mask requirement. They say that if you wear an N95 mask (highest security level) and then a surgical mask over it, the bacterial growth on the skin develops like in a petri dish in a laboratory. Quickly and generously. The Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology published a study that found that 97 percent of staff in the central Chinese province of Hubei had skin problems caused by wearing the masks.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Juchheim Cosmetics „ByeByeCellulite“

This time I have chosen a topic that concerns (almost) all women: cellulite. It has long been known that it arises from the interaction of genes, hormones and the percentage of body fat. Stress, nutrition, lack of exercise as well as alcohol and smoking can also contribute to it. And the more fat the cells store, the more they push out through the connective tissue strands. So far, no cosmetic herb, i.e. cream, has been able to combat cellulite. Until the Munich doctor Dr. JĂŒrgen Juchheim launched his Effect Cosmetic on the market. These include “ByeBye Cellulite”, which is praised by instagramers and bloggers as a miracle cream. I wanted to know that more precisely. And I took a lot of time with the test and I have invested some money – not just a little. In the meantime the third jar is in use since I use cream twice a day, morning and evening. As red as a suburn After the first application, the skin is as red as a sunburn for about an hour, but this wears off after just under a week. The prerequisite is that you don’t apply too much of the cream. It happened to me too! The reddening of the skin, which also indicates an increase in blood flow, is caused by the nettle extract. In addition, the plant substance fisetin, which is known to remove damaged cells, is supposed to empty the enlarged fat cells. Carnitine boosts fat metabolism. The cream is better absorbed by the skin if it is free of shower gel or other products. The manufacturer recommends cleaning them beforehand with a Juchheim tonic. I save that, as do the rubber gloves that users report on internet that they use to apply. Afterwards I simply wash my hands thoroughly with soap (also under the fingernails) and make the Cellulite treatment the last step of my bathroom routine to be on the safe side. So it is the turn of the face first, then the body. In fact, the thighs look smoother right after the first application. But this is only temporary and disappears together with the reddening. Actually it is after six weeks of regular creaming that I notice a slight improvement. I want to know more about it and keep going. After another four weeks, my thighs are visibly smoother and the tissue feels firmer.Thanks to vitamin E and soybean and sunflower oil, the complexion is smoother all in all.… weiterlesen

What Exactly Are Peptides?

The term peptides is used time and again in skin care products. If you believe the advertising, true power molecules are hidden behind it, which smooth wrinkles, tighten and refresh the skin. And they also make the muscles grow. “First and foremost, peptides help to form the collagen and elastin fibers that are everywhere in our skin. It’s short chains of amino acids that tell the body to produce more collagen.” This is how Ron Robinson, my favorite cosmetic chemist in New York, who has an answer to every beauty question, explains the phenomenon of peptides. Roger that. Peptides are something like little messengers that deliver messages. Roger that. In this case, they signal the cells to start the skin’s natural regeneration process.But why are there so many different peptides? Robinson has an explanation for that too. „Since peptides are composed of up to 50 amino acids, they are incredibly changeable. All you have to do is add, remove or replace an amino acid and you have already created a new peptide that again fulfills new functions.“ This can be smoothing or strengthening, it can have an anti-inflammatory effect or keep the moisture in the skin for longer. Chain reaction To go a little deeper: Proteins such as collagen consist of chains of peptides, which in turn consist of amino acids. There are hundreds of peptides, and each peptide is made from a combination of amino acids. If peptides are combined in a certain way, they form proteins. Proteins in turn are composed of one or more polypeptide chains. The length of these chains can vary from approx. 40 to over 4,000 amino acids. To speak of the one peptide would be wrong. Peptides are rather a whole group with a wide variety of tasks and functions. Of the many peptides, tetrapeptides (they have four amino acids) and hexapeptides with six amino acids are often used in skin care. Due to their special chemical structure, both perform a wide variety of tasks: Hexapeptides can reduce stubborn expression lines, while tetrapeptides promote elasticity and firmness of the skin. Molecules which have at least ten amino acids are generally classified as polypeptides. Shorter polypeptides are called oligopeptides. The individual amino acids are linked by so-called peptide bonds. Incidentally, this was researched in 1902 by the German chemist and later Nobel laureate Emil Fischer. Peptides instead of botox Agireline (INCI name: Acetyl-Hexapeptide 3), which is said to have a botox-like effect, is one of the best known oligo- or hexapeptides.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Doctor Mi! „LIP TECMI! Retinol“

Due to the daily mask requirement I have been struggling with extremely dry lips lately. Most lipcare products didn’t help. Even worse, I felt that I had to use more and more cream. I was convinced by “Tecmi! Retinol”, which I’ve been using for a four weeks now. The first time I applied it, I was a bit confused because the cream initially feels like a light peeling on the lips. The feeling disappears quickly when you move your lips against each other. Encapsulated retinol and high-dose vitamin C are released to protect the sensitive lip skin from external influences and to support cell renewal. Mango butter, jojoba and argan oil result in a super smooth effect. What I also like is the slight warming effect, which lasts quite a long time and suggests a blood circulation increasing effect. This visibly intensifies the lip red. As recommended in the package insert, I also spread the cream over the lip of the lip to refine the small lines of expression. Doesn’t work immediately of course. But over time it seems to me that the upper lip is actually getting a little smoother. I always carry “Tecmi!” with me so that I can use it during the day when my lips are getting drier again. What I am currently testing is to needle the cream in the evenings – and only in the evening! – with a dermaroller into the lip’s skin. Stings a little bit, but is bearable. But one must not press too hard. This treatment should intensify the effect of the product and make the lips a little more voluminous and plump and reduce wrinkles. I have not yet noticed the former, but the fine lines have actually become fewer. I keep on rolling! Doctor Mi! „LIP TECMI! Retinol“, € 59… weiterlesen

Nutritional Supplements. Not always without Risk!

Wherever you look – nutricosmetics. You find them everywhere, in pharmacies, drugstores, departmentstores and luxury beauty shops. Even in groceries the shelves are full of them. The big beauty companies as well as the smallest doctor brands have extended their lines with beauty pills and powders and drinks. But this „beauty from within“ is not always without risk. Karen Grant, Global Beauty Industry Analyst of the NPD Group, provides a comprehensive view of the market. She says: „A huge turnover of 133 Billion US Dollar is made worldwide with beauty supplements.“ Even the Germans spended over two billion euros for food supplements in 2018 – upward tendency. Online has the lion’s share. For example, if you search on the luxury online platform net-a-porter for „food supplement“, you won’t get less than 94 products as an result. They all promise „beauty from within“. Who has never ordererd his magnesium or vitamin C online“? Or was tempted to click on „order now“ of an Instagram post, when there was advertised a “Glow Inner Beauty Powder“ or the „Ageless Beauty Vitamin“. Pill instead of cream According to studies, it is precisely the millennials in Europe and Asia, who choose more often a proactive approach. They turn away from traditionell skin care products, especially from antiaging creams. They prefer pills, shots and teas for their overall wellness. Prominent beauty women do their part. So Heidi Klum advertises a tablet „that makes my skin, hair and nails beautiful like never before“. Gwyneth Paltrow sells on her „Goop Wellness“ platform several sticks und gums for more energy, a clear mind and more glow for the skin. Her pill cocktail „The Mother Load“ is designed for women before, during and after pregnancy. However, this product has already come under fire from experts. According to WHO (World Health Organisation) pregnant women shouldn’t take food supplements containing vitamin A. It could harm the unborn child. Doubtful benefits If you look at the ingredients on the packaging, there is nothing wrong with most of them on the first sight. Often they contain physiological substances like collagen and hyaluronic acid. These are responsible in the body for the elasticity of the skin and the connective tissue. Their natural production is reduced in the body from the age of 20. In addition, there are usually found minerals, trace elements like zinc, several vitamins and antioxidants in these beauty pills.There are already jelly bears with hyaluronic acid and collagen available.… weiterlesen

Hyaluronic Acid: What Advantage does it Really have in Creams?

Whether day skin care, serum or gel, hyaluronic acid is lauded as THE miracle weapon in the field of anti-aging. It is purported to cushion the skin, smooth wrinkles and balance roughness. But is the praise really justified? The body’s own natural substance Hyaluronic acid (HA for short) is, at least, not foreign to the body. Chemically speaking, it is a polysaccharide, i.e. a multiple sugar, and thus an important component of various types of connective tissue. It is the main component of our synovial fluid and lubricates the joints. The largest proportion of HA, about 50 percent, is stored in the skin. Its task is to bind enormous amounts of water – up to six liters per gram. Unfortunately, the body’s own production also decreases with age, starting from around the age of 25. At 50, the water reservoirs are only half full and this begins to become noticeable in the outside appearance: Fine lines and wrinkles, sunken cheeks, crow’s feet or a deepening of the nasolabial fold are classic signs of hyaluronic acid deficiency. The elasticity of one’s own skin, the so-called skin turgor, can be measured easily: one raises a skin fold on the hand with two fingers and releases it. Depending on the moisture content, the wrinkle remains or restores itself elastically. By the way, cracking joints are also an indication that hyaluronic acid is decreasng in the synovial fluid. Chain reaction The empty depots cannot be filled as easily as one might imagine, and certainly not with an externally applied cream. Whether this has an effect and what that effect may be is mainly due to the size of the HA molecules. Simone Presto, physician and expert for the Eucerin HyaluronPlus series, confirms this: “The long-chain (high-molecular) hyaluronic acid is a very large molecule which remains on the skin. The medium-chain hyaluronic acid penetrates a little deeper into the superficial skin layers through the epidermis, up to about the middle of the 12 epidermal layers. The short-chain (low-molecular) hyaluronic acid can penetrate more deeply.” But, as the doctor admits, there is a limit here as well. Even the smallest HA molecules cannot break through the basal membrane, the bottom layer of the epidermis, where cells are constantly produced. No innovative cosmetic can overcome this. The short-chain hyaluronic acid is deposited there and swells up because it binds water from the tissue. In this way, it can not only ensure that wrinkles become flatter, but also that cell communication is maintained.… weiterlesen