Culture&Cream Autorin Petra Springer
Aus dem Bereich Fashion-Illustration & Design Studies an der Meisterschule für Mode, München, kommend, war ich lange Jahre als Fashion-Director für verschiedene Magazine tätig. Seit zwei Jahren arbeite ich als Content-Editor für Online-Portale und entwickle gezeichnete Modekurzfilme. Weiterbildung: Illustration & Fashion Drawing, FIT, Fashion Institute of Technology, New York City. In München: Visual Communications, Wildner Akademie, Zeichnen & Malerei Studien, Akthof, Aktzeichen & Anatomisches Zeichnen, Akademie für Bildende Künste.
The profession has become rare, but those who practice it are true artists. Ulf Trittel is a trained porcelain painter at the famous Meissen Manufactory and one of them. He creates unique objects. Petra Springer took porcelain painting lessons and looked over Ulf Trittel’s shoulder while he was creating a truly special piece of art.
Ulf is a big man with strong hands. When I watch him paint with a filigree brush, I always think how these firm hands manage to produce the finest and most delicate porcelain art. He often paints elaborate ornaments, flowers, animals or just anything that springs from his imagination on the smallest of surfaces. Or on whatever the client wishes. Ulf has numerous private customers, all of them are porcelain lovers for who he decorates complete tea and coffee sets. Many of his works go to Japan. He travels there twice a year to teach in private homes of wealthy families. “Japanese are very enthusiastic about everything that is handcrafted. „Handicrafts are very important for Japanese people”, says Ulf. Colored porcelain paintings existed in Japan as early as the 14th century. It wasn’t until the end of the 18th century that they came to us in Europe. The admiration for his art is much greater in Japan than it is here. Japanese place the porcelain pieces Ulf had painted on black velvet, then put them in a frame and hang them on the wall like a painting. It used to be a custom in Europe too, but it’s seldom done anymore.
Painting lessons with Ulf Trittel
Japanese students stand quietly in a circle around him when Ulf demonstrates, for example, how to paint a hummingbird. The artistry starts with the mixing of the colors. The pigments are blended with a few drops of precious oils using a spatula. The consistency of the resulting texture is important. The composing of colors is still a mystery to me, even after several explanations. Porcelain painting is an art in itself. The wealth of experience of each individual porcelain painter alone contains the knowledge of an artistically valuable and perfectly composed result. That was not how I had imagined it. I thought painting on porcelain would be easier, like creating a simple piece art. But when painting porcelain the interplay of colors play a role just as much as the burning and the luminosity of the colors after burning. Each piece is therefore a composition of an effect at first glance and the complete expertise after the burning process.… weiterlesen
Aus dem Bereich Fashion-Illustration & Design Studies an der Meisterschule für Mode, München, kommend, war ich lange Jahre als Fashion-Director für verschiedene Magazine tätig. Seit zwei Jahren arbeite ich als Content-Editor für Online-Portale und entwickle gezeichnete Modekurzfilme. Weiterbildung: Illustration & Fashion Drawing, FIT, Fashion Institute of Technology, New York City. In München: Visual Communications, Wildner Akademie, Zeichnen & Malerei Studien, Akthof, Aktzeichen & Anatomisches Zeichnen, Akademie für Bildende Künste.
‘Martin Margiela: In His Own Words.’ That’s the title of the new documentary about the mysterious Belgian designer. The German filmmaker Reiner Holzemer created a new standard for fashion documentaries. “Utterly riveting”, so The Hollywood Reporter.
A pair of hands, a calm voice and a very personal story. Martin Margiela is known for never wanting to show his face. Even at the height of his career, he did not give interviews. In the documentary he gives the viewer a glimpse of his very own world. His career, stages in his career, memories of childhood and deep insights into his mental life. Not ostensibly direct, but very subtle in an almost artistic narrative style. In the film it is manifested again and again in Margiela’s hands, who adjust a piece of material with elegant, subtle movements or open a sketchbook from early childhood. This picture, his hands in plain white as if in a frame and looking like a still life, is a recurring style element. It is maintained throughout the film. Poetry for the viewer that evokes closeness to a designer who is considered aloof.
Martin Margiela. He touches. Either way.
He provoked as an avant-garde designer. Margiela was Jean-Paul Gaultier’s assistant from 1984 to 1987. In 1987 he founded his own label Maison Martin Margiela. It was then that the “4 Stitches” – Margiela’s trademark – came into being. A logo with four stitches and numbering. Unusual. Ordinary is not consistent with this designer anyway. Margiela revolutionized the shows. He sent his models on the catwalk wearing masks. His shows were like rock concerts. They were held in theaters, even parking spaces served as a location. He was different in everything that made him extremely attractive. His provocative designs were in demand. He created never-before-seen collection highlights: the “sock sweater”, a sweatshirt made from military socks, or the “gloves top” made from gloves sewn together. The “Plastic Grocery Top” is made from redesigned plastic bags. To name just a few.
He amazed and surprised
The film also reports on Margiela’s successful collaboration with the luxury house Hermès. In 1997 he was surprisingly appointed chief designer of women’s fashion. The fashion designer created 12 collections for the traditional French company. The conservative luxury label Hermès encountered the avant-garde and idiosyncratic stylistic ideas of the fashion company Maison Martin Margiela, which questioned and literally dismantled all aesthetic values of the time. The design houses couldn’t have been more different.… weiterlesen
Aus dem Bereich Fashion-Illustration & Design Studies an der Meisterschule für Mode, München, kommend, war ich lange Jahre als Fashion-Director für verschiedene Magazine tätig. Seit zwei Jahren arbeite ich als Content-Editor für Online-Portale und entwickle gezeichnete Modekurzfilme. Weiterbildung: Illustration & Fashion Drawing, FIT, Fashion Institute of Technology, New York City. In München: Visual Communications, Wildner Akademie, Zeichnen & Malerei Studien, Akthof, Aktzeichen & Anatomisches Zeichnen, Akademie für Bildende Künste.
Objects of desire. Wonders of nature. Healing stones. Precious gems. Big clunkers. Gemstones may be called many names but often very little is known about their origin, mining and processing. Journalist Petra Springer frequently accompanied her Brazilian geologist husband on his travels and was able to have a look behind the scenes. She says: “The saying I liked best was ‘stones are the gateway to the earth'”.
Quality check and finish
In their original form, precious stones are minerals or rocks, raw and shapeless when first mined. Classification characteristics of the more than one hundred types of gemstones are transparency, purity, color intensity and rarity value. In addition, they must have a Mohs hardness (relative hardness value of minerals, named after the German mineralogist Friedrich Mohs) higher than 7. To create a gemstone with perfect luster and optimal refraction, the cutter will grind away at least 50 percent of the rough stone. It is often the cut that makes a gem particularly valuable. The art of cutting means shaping each individual gemstone so that the incident light on the stone is refracted in the most optimal way, thereby enhancing the colour intensity. Gemstones that do not meet the above criteria or have a lower degree of hardness are called semi-precious stones. Among these are agate, amethyst or rose quartz. In mineralogy and gemology, however, the term “semi-precious stone” is no longer used. One speaks of gemstones or precious stones.
Places of discovery – finding stones
During numerous business trips to Brazil with my husband, a geologist and gemologist, I have had the opportunity to experience the gemstone trade first-hand at discovery sites, in mines, with local middlemen or in the search for new Garimpeiros. “Garimpos” is the Brazilian word for small-scale mining which means the search for raw stones by hand. Even today, the discovery of a gemstone is not an everyday occurrence – a lot of good luck is involved. After mining, the stones are taken to smaller intermediate trade centers near the sites where they were found. What may look like a market is a place where gemstones are traded with wholesalers and middlemen. Stones are offered for sale at stalls or the goods are viewed directly from backpacks.
The most valuable stones
In addition to Brazil, there are discovery sites all over the world. Sapphires and rubies, which are mainly found in Burma, Thailand, Sri Lanka and India, are among the most valuable of all gemstones.… weiterlesen
Aus dem Bereich Fashion-Illustration & Design Studies an der Meisterschule für Mode, München, kommend, war ich lange Jahre als Fashion-Director für verschiedene Magazine tätig. Seit zwei Jahren arbeite ich als Content-Editor für Online-Portale und entwickle gezeichnete Modekurzfilme. Weiterbildung: Illustration & Fashion Drawing, FIT, Fashion Institute of Technology, New York City. In München: Visual Communications, Wildner Akademie, Zeichnen & Malerei Studien, Akthof, Aktzeichen & Anatomisches Zeichnen, Akademie für Bildende Künste.
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