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Author: Margit Rüdiger

CultureAndCream Author from Munich To travel during my profession as a beauty journalist was never enough for my. Also my six month on a world trip didn't do it. It always attracts me to other cities, foreign countries, on roadtrips and places I don't know yet. But I am not only interested in "culture" and "cream", I am also fascinated by people who have stories to tell .  Such unique experiences I want to share with you.

Tested for you: “Royal Fern Retinol Solution” by Dr. Timm Golüke

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Retinol – as often as I have already written about this active ingredient, I thought to myself that there simply couldn’t be anything new about it. It is one of the most proven and scientifically recognized substances in medicine and also in skin care. New products are coming onto the market all the time, but they are as similar as two peas in a pod. Hardly any skincare line today does not have a retinol product in its portfolio. Sometimes they contain a little more or a little less of the proven anti-ageing substance or they are based on different derivatives of vitamin A acid. Retinol in a different way Munich dermatologist Dr. Timm Golüke takes a different approach with his new “Retinol Solution”. It is also designed to smooth and firm the skin, giving it a more youthful appearance. The serum minimizes fine lines, wrinkles and pigmentation spots, making the complexion appear more even. To achieve this, Golüke uses various substances and technologies. “Retinol Solution” could be described as a multitasking anti-ageing serum. Its main ingredients are vegan. It combines firming retinol with brightening glycolic acid. The main active ingredient itself is an encapsulated complex with time-release technology. This means that the concentrated vitamin A embedded in liposomes is transported deep into the skin before releasing its effect there continuously over 12 hours. In addition, there is an innovative mushroom extract that plumps up the skin from the inside. It counteracts irritation and makes the retinol serum compatible with most skin types. Probiotics for the skin’s microbiome Another particularly innovative aspect of the anti-ageing serum are the probiotics, which strengthen the barrier function, increase the moisture content and reduce inflammation. If the skin is irritated, it is soothed as a result. But what exactly are probiotics? Probiotics are living microorganisms, i.e. good bacteria. Probiotic ingredients in a skincare product therefore have a positive effect on the skin’s microbiome and can bring it back into balance. “I am delighted to introduce our most powerful serum yet. The Retinol Solution combines effective ingredients in a unique way, and your skin will look better than ever before.” Dr.Timm Golüke Red and yellow The appearance alone sets “Retinol Solution” apart from its competitors. Instead of being packaged in a dull, brown pharmacy bottle, the serum shines in a red frosted glass bottle. The texture, which comes out of the pipette in precise droplets, is bright yellow (the natural color of vitamin A!).… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Innovative moisture for the hair “Hydrating Drops” from La Biosthetique

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My hair could do with some moisture, as my silver strands have to be bleached regularly. The texture of the hair suffers noticeably and it feels dry. But frequent heat styling – which I avoid as much as possible for the sake of my hair – or environmental influences also cause it to dry out and become brittle. Moisture drop by drop The “Hydrating Drops” from La Biosthetique are the ideal solution for me. Drop by drop, they quench the thirst of my dehydrated hair. They consist of a combination of long and short-chain hyaluronic acids with red seaweed. It is supposed to moisturize the hair structure from the inside and repair the cuticle. In this way, the moisture remains trapped inside. As a result, the hair gains elasticity and vitality. Pure or mixed I use the drops depending on the situation. In an SOS situation when my hair needs a lot of moisture or when I have to do something quickly, I use them as a leave-in moisturizer for my daily routine. I don’t have to rinse it out and can start the day straight away. Or I apply it to towel-dried hair after washing, again without rinsing. You can also use the “Hydrating Drops” as a care booster to intensify your hair care. They are then added to the hair mask or conditioner in a mixing ratio of 3:10. Mix both well, leave to work in as usual and then rinse out. In any case, thanks to the “good droplets”, my hair is optimally moisturized, feels soft and nourished, but retains its grip. Neutral in color and odor I also like the consistency of the innovative drops. It is a colorless-transparent liquid, but not too liquid. I test it on the back of my hand: it comes out of the dispenser drop by drop without “blurring” on the skin. The drops are odorless and can be optimally distributed in the hair. And importantly, they are not unpleasantly sticky on the hands. Moisturizing drops “Structure Repair Hydrating Drops” by La Biosthetique , 30 ml, 38 euros… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Make-up palette “Here You Glow” by Loni Baur

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Make-up palettes are not really my thing. Half of the colors and products I’ve bought so far have mostly remained unused. The green was too glittery for me, the mascara brush too thick and greasy, the eyebrow pencil far too hard. As a result, many a palette ended up in the bin at some point. Anything but economical and environmentally friendly. That’s right! That’s why I haven’t bought a palette for a long time. Make-up palette by Loni Baur Why I have now broken my resolution is down to Loni Baur. As a beauty journalist, I have experienced her live as a make-up artist on many occasions. I admire her know-how, creativity and expertise. She is one of the most successful German make-up artists for good reason. Loni has been creating looks for Fashion Weeks for 25 years, has done make-up for stars such as Charlène of Monaco, Gigi Hadid and Lenny Kravitz and has worked with well-known designers and renowned magazines. In April 2022, she launched her own make-up line LONI BAUR. She is a make-up artist with a huge amount of experience in make-up and looks. That’s why I was so excited about her own beauty products and simply had to make an exception for her palette. Loni on her collection: “I have set myself the goal of making all my experience and knowledge of what makes a look special and how to achieve it accessible to everyone. The individual steps are super easy to recreate and require no prior professional knowledge.“ Two palettes, endless looks Loni Baur actually has two palettes in her make-up line: “The Face Edition 01 – Here You Glow”, which I chose, and “The Face Edition 02 – Get Reddy”. The latter contains everything for a modern statement look with red lips and midnight blue eyeliner – cool for daytime as well as for a glamorous evening look. Both palettes contain everything you need for a complete professional look. Incidentally, I didn’t imagine them to be so large – they are more of a “make-up table” than a simple make-up palette as you would normally expect. I want “Glow” My “Here You Glow” palette with its soft peach tones is perfect for a natural glowy look with soft peach tones that I can use for every day, but also for special occasions. It contains 12 brilliant products in great, all-day-all-night colors: powder bronzer, blush and highlighter, blush stick, three powder eyeshadows, brow pencil duo, eye pencil duo, mascara, nude couture lipstick and a transparent brow gel.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Wow brows with “Brow Set” from Real Techniques

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Wow brows everyone wants, because only a beautiful arch over the eyes gives the face an attractive frame and more expression. No matter which styling of the eyebrows is currently in fashion. Were it in the 90s still super narrow plucked, almost stroke-like arches, is now every look possible. Whether fluffy and voluminous or prefer natural and laminated. Wow brows by nature, hardly anyone is blessed with that. Even if they have grown as bushy and prominent as top model Cara Delevingne’s, you have to do something about it. Because very lush eyebrows often have bristly hairs that stick out wildly and untamed in all directions. Three sets for wow brows From Real Techniques there is now a new collection with different “Brow Sets” for the different requirements and corresponding tools for filling, blending and modeling the eyebrows. There is a 2-in-1 Brush (5.99 euros) for all make-up minimalists. The “Dual-Ended Brow Brush” combines two functions in just one tool: With the finely angled head of the Wide Angled Brow Liner, the eyebrows are filled in and brought into the desired shape. The Brow Spoolie then fixes unruly hairs and gives a natural-looking fullness. Also ideal for wow brows when traveling and in combination with brow gel and powder. If you want a little more styling without investing too much time in your wow brows, use the “Brow Styling Set” (€14.99). It consists of three parts: The Long Handled Brow Brush gives the eyebrows a voluminous look and prepares them for the next steps. Then the Wide Angled Brow Liner and the Brow Spoolie are used. They define the eyebrows with the help of brow powders and creams. The Brow Hold and Precision Brow Spoolie Brush guarantee a perfect finish. With these, the styled eyebrows are carefully pressed upwards and fixed in their shape. Perfect shape I opted for the three-piece “Brow Shaping Set”. It is optimal for my demands for perfectly styled eyebrows. All three products have two useful ends. In the case of the tweezers, it is an Angled Tweezer and a Pointed Tweezer. The middle of the tool is so “slim” that the device fits well in the hand. It can be used to remove all unwanted hairs – fine or stubbly – effortlessly. I use the Flat Brow Brush with the Spoolie, a slightly larger spiral brush at the other end, to apply color powder for a bit more volume, blend in evenly and set.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: “Anti-wrinkle cream Ageless” from Golden Tree

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Ageless is the perfect description when it comes to what adult women want for their skin. No one wants to look like a teenager anymore, but she shouldn’t show her age in her passport either. That’s why an appropriate skin care product is so important. The years are most noticeable on the face. Typical signs are sagging, deepening wrinkles and a tired appearance. How to achieve and maintain the Ageless state? To do this, you need to know: How elastic, firm, radiant and youthful the skin looks depends largely on two proteins that influence tissue elasticity – collagen and elastin. However, the two have a natural enemy called progerin. This unloved protein is already present in the skin in adolescence, but the proportion is still very low then. With age, more and more progerin is deposited in the cells, especially in the keratinocytes and fibroblasts. Every year of life, the progerin content increases by about three percent, so that the signs of skin aging become increasingly visible. Progerin makes us age faster The more progerin is produced, the faster our skin ages. French scientists came across this cause of skin aging in 2003 when they were researching Hutchinson-Gilford progeria syndrome (HGPS). This is the disease that causes affected children to age 5 to 10 times faster. But the “toxic” protein is not only overactive in this rare condition, but also accumulates in the skin cells of healthy people after every sunbath, through nicotine, stress or with increasing age. Therefore: A lack of moisture alone, as many face creams try to combat, does not cause premature aging of the skin, but too much progerin. The solution therefore lies primarily in lowering the level of the “evil” protein. If progerin destroys collagen, the result is thinner and thinner skin. Less of the elastic fibers lead to sagging as well as drooping skin. This makes the face look tired and old. Fighting the enemy With Ageless, an anti-wrinkle cream has come onto the market that does not limit itself to the superficial signs of skin aging, but tackles the problem of progerin directly. Three patented ingredients are designed to lower dangerous progerin levels in the skin, stimulate collagen and elastin synthesis, counteract volume loss and protect the skin from harmful external factors: Winged kelp extract Juvenessence is a clinically effective ingredient that lowers progerin levels in the skin by 79 percent. Plus a hydrolyzed biopolymer of acacia resin, patented in 2016 by a French company under the name Easyliance.… weiterlesen

Vitamin D: The 6 Most Common Errors

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Vitamin D wird im Körper durch die Sonneneinstrahlung und die Ernährung gewährleistet. Falsch! Über keine Substanz im Körper gibt es so viele Irrtümer und Fehleinschätzungen wie bei Vitamin D (wissenschaftlich Vitamin D3). Hier sind die sechs wichtigsten Mythen: Irrtum 1: Gesunde Ernährung sichert den Vitamin-D-Spiegel Vitamin D wird im Gegensatz zu vielen anderen Vitaminen nicht vorwiegend über die Ernährung aufgenommen. Es wird zum größten Teil durch die UVB-Strahlen der Sonne in der Haut produziert. Deshalb ist allein die Sonnenexposition für eine ausreichende Menge Vitamin D im Körper entscheidend. Und die erreicht man in den seltensten Fällen. Irrtum 2: Über die Sonne nimmt man genug auf Die Sonneneinstrahlung reicht bei uns in Mitteleuropa nicht aus. Selbst im Sommer ist der Anteil des UVB-Spektrums der Sonne nur zwischen 11 und 16 Uhr hoch genug. Das sind aber genau die Zeiten, in denen man sich nicht in der prallen Sonne aufhalten sollte. Aber das Vitamin kann nur bei direkter Bestrahlung auf die nackte Haut produziert werden. Und das am besten im Liegen, weil dann der Einfallswinkel der Lichtstrahlen optimal ist. Aus diesen Gründen sind viele Menschen nicht ausreichend mit Vitamin D versorgt. Im Winter, und der dauert bei uns nun mal fünf Monate, sieht es noch schlechter aus. In den Ländern über dem 42. Breitengrad (oberhalb von Rom) steht die Sonne zwischen Oktober und März so tief, dass zu wenig UV-Strahlen durchkommen. Irrtum 3: Im Winter versorgt sich der Körper mit den Vorräten aus dem Sommer Auch das funktioniert leider nicht so, denn der Vitamin-D-Spiegel fällt bereits nach etwa acht Wochen stark ab. Daher sind fast 80 Prozent der Bevölkerung im Winter mit dem wichtigen Vitamin unterversorgt. Starke Schwankungen wirken sich jedoch auf den gesamten Körper aus, weshalb im Winter beispielsweise Entzündungswerte im Blut ansteigen. Die bekannteste Funktion von Vitamin D ist die Beteiligung am Knochenstoffwechsel. So fördert es die Aufnahme (Resorption) von Calcium und Phosphat aus dem Darm sowie deren Einbau in den Knochen und nimmt damit eine Schlüsselrolle bei der Knochenmineralisierung ein. Inzwischen wird Vitamin D von Wissenschaftlern auch als Hormon bezeichnet (Vitamin D Hormon), da es das Ablesen hormonsensitiver Gene reguliert. Der Vitamin-D-Spiegel nimmt außerdem Einfluss auf die Produktion und das Ausschütten der Schilddrüsenhormone sowie die Sekretion von Insulin. Eine ausreichende und stabile D-Versorgung sollte deshalb das ganze Jahres sichergestellt werden. Irrtum 4: 1000 IE (Internationale Einheiten) pro Tag reichen aus Diese Menge galt jahrelang als offizielle Empfehlung. Mehrere Studien konnten mittlerweile belegen, dass bei dieser Berechnung des Vitamin-D-Bedarfs statistische Fehler begangen wurden, die den tatsächlichen Bedarf um den Faktor 10 zu niedrig angesetzt haben.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: My SOS Duo from Doctor Duve medical skincare

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SOS helpers have a lot to do with me after a long summer like this one with plenty of sun, salt or chlorine water and constant UV protection. The skin is drier than usual – my beautician has also noticed this – and perhaps even a little irritated. Sun creams like to close the pores, and sun wrinkles mercilessly make their way – especially around the eyes and in the cheek area In this phase, the retinol, which is usually alternately part of my care routine in the evening, remains in the beauty cabinet. Instead, my two SOS helpers are increasingly used in the morning and evening: the “Boosting Face Serum” and the “Clarifying Face Cream”, both from the Doctor Duve Skincare line. Even though I often have to and want to test other products in my job as a beauty journalist. Whenever there is “need for the woman”, then I come back to the two. By the way, the Skin Care from the Munich dermatologist Dr. Stefan Duve has been around since 2009, and that’s how long I’ve been loyal to the SOS duo in emergencies. The Big Four active ingredients for the skin In its products, Dr. Duve relies on a symbiosis of potent active ingredients from nature and modern anti-aging cell research. Many studies by skin and university clinics have shown that there are only a handful of active ingredients in cosmetics that actually have an effect on the skin in terms of anti-aging or pro-youthing, as one often reads today. The four heroes include hyaluronic acid, retinol, growth factors (also known as growth factors), and antioxidants such as vitamin C and vitamin E. They are all included in some form in Doctor Duve Skin Care. The signature active ingredient of the care line is also contained in my two SOS Helpers: Growth Factors are proteins that play an important role in the control of cell functions and initiate healing processes, among other things. In a skin care product, Growth Factors stimulate the organism to form healthy skin cells. They also promote the production of collagen, which makes the skin look younger and healthier. By the way, there is a Nobel Prize behind the Growth Factors. In 1986, Rita Levi-Montalcini, an Italian physician and neurobiologist, was awarded the Nobel Prize for Medicine together with her colleague Stanley Cohen for their research on nerve growth factors. SOS helpers at the start I apply the “Boosting Face Serum” in the morning and evening after cleansing my face.… weiterlesen

EmFace: A Brand New Pain- And Needle-Free Lifting Treatment

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EmFace – darüber redet momentan die Beauty-Welt. Es ist eine apparative Lifting-Behandlung, die straffere Haut und weniger Falten verspricht – und das ganz ohne Nadeln und Schmerzen. Klingt doch fast schon zu schön, um wirklich wahr zu sein. So eine Innovation im Bereich der Anti-Aging-Treatments wollte ich mir als Beauty-Expertin nicht entgehen lassen und habe EmFace selbst ausprobiert. EmFace basiert auf einer Technologie, die mir nicht unbekannt war. EmSculpt von demselben Hersteller BTL Medizintechnik ist ebenfalls ein nicht-invasives Verfahren, das zur Körperstraffung eingesetzt wird. Tausende Muskelkontraktionen erzielen dabei einen intensiven Trainingseffekt, der Muskeln auf- und Fett abbaut. Auch EmFace hat es auf die Muskeln abgesehen – auf die sogenannten Levatoren, die das Gesicht anheben, und die Depressoren, die das Gesicht nach unten ziehen. “EmFace stärkt und aktiviert die Muskeln, die für das Anheben verantwortlich sind. Dadurch kommt es zu einem natürlichen Lifting-Effekt”, sagt Dr. Christian Fitz, Facharzt für plastische Chirurgie in Stuttgart, der EmFace als einer der ersten an sich selbst gestestet hat. Zudem stimuliert EmFace die Produktion der Kollagen- und Elastinfasern, indem es die oberen und mittleren Schichten der Haut mit Hochfrequenzenergie erwärmt“, werde ich von der Behandlerin aufgeklärt, bevor ich es mir auf ihrer Liege bequem mache. Durch die Wärme wird die Haut neu strukturiert und erhält eine glattere Textur, aber zusätzlich kommt die HIFES-Technologie (hochintensive elektromagnetische Stimulation) zum Einsatz. Sie ermöglicht durch gezielte Anspannung der Gesichtsmuskeln eine Erhöhung der Muskelmasse und -qualität. Gute klinische Ergebnisse Jede EmFace-Behandlung dauert nur 20 Minuten. Vier sind nötig, die am besten in kurzen Abständen von fünf bis zehn Tagen stattfinden sollten. Das kommt meinem persönlichen Zeit-Management totel entgegen, denn eine komplizierte Terminplanung rund um das Treatment ist nicht erforderlich, weil man hinterher quasi keine Genesungszeit braucht. Wie immer bei einem neuen Gerät frage ich auch hier nach der Studienlage. Die Antwort: In neun verschiedenen Studien wurde die Kombination aus Radiofrequenz- und HIFES-Technologie (High Intensity Focused Electromagnetic) als wirksam und sicher eingestuft. Auch die Resultate hören sich vielversprechend an: Laut dieser klinischen Studien reduziert EmFace die Sichtbarkeit von Gesichtslinien um 37 Prozent, während der Lifting-Effekt im Durchschnitt 23 Prozent beträgt. Der durchschnittliche Kollagen-Anstieg lag bei 26 Prozent, und es wurde eine Verdoppelung der Elastin-Menge im Gewebe festgestellt. So funktioniert EmFace Zuerst wird meine Haut gereinigt, bevor die EmFace-Applikatoren nur auf der Stirn und im Wangenbereich platziert werden, sich aber auf das gesamte Gesicht auswirken. Dann wird das Gerät eingeschaltet und die Intensität allmählich gesteigert.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: The new “Blush & Glow Duo Stick” from Kess Berlin

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The Duo Stick has long been a cult item at Kess Berlin. As a purse-friendly everyday essential, I can’t imagine doing without it for my daily facial makeover. It offers everything I love when it comes to make-up: a multitasker with which you can conjure up a complete, unexciting make-up in a “stick twist” that only takes a few minutes. I love! Duo Stick: a mix & match concept The upgrade of the vegan Iconic bestseller took two years of development. First, the exterior: The new more robust and user-friendly Duo Stick Case is made of lightweight aluminum in glossy white instead of the previous matte plastic shell. In addition, all external parts are coated with a special transparent and glossy protective lacquer. This not only makes the Duo Stick easier to clean, but also gives it a higher-quality look and makes it more robust and thus more durable.Together with a more sustainable refill option, 43 percent plastic is saved. Since the used, empty refills still have to be disposed of, Kess has chosen polypropylene as the only mono-material for this, as it is easier to recycle and therefore more environmentally friendly. Customized or off the rack The new version of the Duo Stick offers endless customization options for blush and highlighter, as the refills can be replaced individually. You can always buy new shades and insert them into your Duo-Stick case without having to buy another one. If you don’t want to do that, you can continue to use the Blush & Glow combinations pre-made by Kess. I like the individualization and I have also immediately purchased the two new blush shades Flirt and Berry for the next few months. Inserting the refills at the end of the stick is easy thanks to a user-friendly click-in mechanism. You remove the cap of the empty case, click in the refill. When you hear the click, everything fits. Then you remove the clear safety cap from the refill and close it with the cap of the stick. Replacing a refill is just as easy: just pull it out to remove it! Click – blush – glow I am especially happy about “Flirt”. The refreshing red tone with warm undertones is exactly my color. It looks really bright in the pencil, but blended thinly on the cheekbones it gives the perfect “naturally flushed cheeks” look with a satin matte finish. I also like to spread a touch under my brows, and applied a little thicker I use it instead of lipstick.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Wake up fit with “vedi up” by Sandhya

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“vedi up” – Waking up fit in the morning, even if the night before was long, the drinks a bit too much and the food too rich. Is that possible? Waking up without a hangover or feeling of fullness from the night before, but starting the day fit? Sandhya has the recipe for it: Ayurvedic capsules for a better wake-up experience. They are vegan and consist of powerful plant extracts, inspired by traditional Indian medicine, which nevertheless work for our western lifestyle. Wake up fit thanks to seven power plants Seven highly potent substances are in the capsules: Chicory root has bitter substances that stimulate liver protection, strengthen intestinal health and the immune system. Kalmegh herb is highly valued in Ayurveda for its blood purifying effect, provides balance in case of mental and physical overload. Grape seed extract is known for its antioxidant effects. Contains oligomeric proabthocyanides (OPC), which, taken before or during the party, are released in the following sleep. Date fruit powder has high levels of fiber, minerals such as potassium, calcium, and anti-inflammatory magnesium, and supports liver metabolism. The bitter cruciferous flower plays an important role in Ayurveda because of its antibacterial and detoxifying effects. Amla fruit also supports toxin removal in the liver. Ashwagandha root, on the other hand, is not without reason known as “sleeping berry”: It is used as a harmonizing element that reduces stress and anxiety, prevents sleep disorders, increases performance and inhibits inflammation. “vedi up” – bringing enjoyment and health into harmony I usually don’t drink a lot of alcohol. But my summer life in Tuscany requires exceptions. Negroni or Sprizz are particularly tasty here, the food so delicious that even I like to reach for it once too often. It’s not unusual for my stomach to feel so full in the evening that it’s hard to get to sleep and I wake up the next morning still stuffed and with an unpleasant feeling in my stomach. I can do without that, but I don’t want to miss the Tuscan evenings with friends and family. Then I heard about the Ayurvedic capsules “vedi upfrom Sandhya under the motto “balance is not something you find, it’s something you create”. That’s right, after all I am responsible for my own well-being and I have always been a great believer in Ayurveda. In the “vedi up” capsules there is a lot of it, plants and their components, which can have a balancing influence on our organism.… weiterlesen