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Author: Margit Rüdiger

CultureAndCream Author from Munich To travel during my profession as a beauty journalist was never enough for my. Also my six month on a world trip didn't do it. It always attracts me to other cities, foreign countries, on roadtrips and places I don't know yet. But I am not only interested in "culture" and "cream", I am also fascinated by people who have stories to tell .  Such unique experiences I want to share with you.

A Photographer with the Eye of Humanity

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Her name is Leila Alaoui. The work of the French-Moroccan photo and video artist came to my mind for the first time at an exhibition next to the newly opened Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech. They were portraits of Moroccans from different regions of the country – all life-size and in front of black background. You stand in front of the pictures and believe that you would look the human directly into the soul. Or is it the other way round? I was so impressed that I wanted to learn more about Leila Alaoui. Unfortunately she does not live anymore. Sie died 2016 aged 33 from injuries suffered in a terrorist attack in Ouagadougou, Burkina Faso. Alaoui was hired by UN Women and Amnesty International to work on a photographic assignment on women’s rights in Burkina Faso. Being one of the most promising photographers of her generation she is an artist to remember and will live on in her work. The Leila Alaoui Foundation was initiated and is run by her mother Christine. She has given herself the mission to preserve her daughters work and values. There are still two unpublished project from the years 2014 und 2015. With the bus across Morocco To realize her photo projects Leila Alaoui has spared no effort. For her series „The Moroccans“ she travelled between 2010 and 2014 the country with her mobile photo studio to capture the ethnic and cultural diversity of Morocco. She portrayed women and men in the manner of the traditional orientalist portrayal. Her style of presentation is often compared with Richard Avedon, one of the greatest portraitists of the 20th century. Alaoui’s life-sized images captured on a black background attracts you to look them into the eyes. The black canvas highlights the beauty of their facial features – no matter if they are young or old -, the sophisticated aesthetic of their dress, and the rich cultural traditions they stand for. Archaic people from a rudimentary, dusty environment. The book „The Moroccans“ I can highly recommend. On search for destinies Through this project, and all others, Leila Alaoui seemed to aim for the same social impact: one deconstructing the idea of hierarchy between culture and people. Her work shows a high degree of empathy for the people she portrayed. Born in Paris to a Moroccan father and a French mother, and grown up in Marrakech she has known the difficulties of a life between Europe and Africa.… weiterlesen

When the Body becomes Flabby…

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Because of its lack of appropriate methods, body skin tightening was once aesthetic medicine’s poor relation. Now there are two extremely effective technologies that can be used to tighten and smooth the tissues. Renuvion – plasma energy for lasting firm skin Renuvion, a process based on helium plasma with the efficiency of highly focused energy, is still very new. The Rosenpark Klinik is the first clinic in Germany and one of the first in Europe to use this method. It can be applied to tighten sagging skin on the legs, arms, buttocks, back or neck and décolleté in a very unique way. The dual thermal effect produced tightens the tissue so gently that the risk of side effects is very low in comparison with other procedures such as laser. Why? Plasma technology allows the connective tissue to be heated precisely and then immediately cooled back to skin temperature. Local anesthesia and small incisions Renuvion can be performed as a stand-alone treatment or, if necessary, directly after liposuction. Immediately after liposuction, the 4 mm thin handpiece is inserted into the same mini incisions made for the liposuction cannula. This means that no additional incisions are required. To ensure that the procedure is painless, the area to be treated is numbed using local tumescent anesthesia in the same way as with liposuction. Treatment with the Renuvion handpiece is fan shaped. The surgeon moves the device in opposite directions at one centimeter per second. The helium plasma beam penetrates the entire tissue, tightens it directly under the skin and stimulates the formation of new collagen. Four to six passes are necessary, requiring 20 to 45 minutes. But then it’s done. Only one intervention is necessary for a lasting result. Potential immediate effect In many cases, the effect can already be seen immediately after treatment. Significant improvement and smoothing of the skin occurs within the next six months which is the time it takes for new collagen to form. The adhesion of the tissue stimulated by the procedure ensures optimized wound healing and tightening of the tissues in all layers. In the first few days after treatment, slight wound pain, similar to that of aching muscles, is possible. Otherwise, the patient feels fit again right away, without significant downtime. If Renuvion is performed as part of a liposuction, one should plan three to four days of rest. Although there are no physical restrictions, wearing a compression garment is essential for about two to four weeks.… weiterlesen

Skincare Made to Measure

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Customized or bespoke are THE keywords when it comes to something tailored specifically to a person. To explain why tailor-made skin care actually does make sense, Dr. Gerhard Sattler, founder and Medical Director of the Bellari Institute and the Rosenpark Klinik Darmstadt, uses the example of SkinCeuticals CUSTOM D.O.S.E., a machine which produces a personalized skin serum on site. Does customized skincare make sense even if one doesn’t have problem skin? I think this is a question of personal requirements. Prevention always plays a role in taking care of my skin, even if it is healthy. In this respect, personalized care is also helpful for those consumers who don’t have problem skin. After all, it contains not only medicinal substances, but skin nourishing ingredients which give support to the stability and health of the skin. What is special about the new SkinCeuticals product is the quality of how it is prepared. The machine is located here in the salesroom at the Bellari Medical Beauty practice and, in just a few minutes, produces a serum under highly sterile conditions, just as if it came from a laboratory. I find that remarkable and highly professional. What parameters does the machine measure? Since every skin has individual needs and problem zones, a precise anamnesis is essential. This is obtained by means of a personal conversation and a tablet-supported skin analysis which take place in advance. Based on the programme’s questions, the patient’s objectives are established, and problem areas noted and assessed. The SkinScope from SkinCeuticals is also used. By means of a special UV light, this reveals “weak points” in the skin such as hyperpigmentation, couperose, etc., which are not yet visible to the naked eye. The formulation is then determined using a tablet after which CUSTOM D.O.S.E (and this is what makes it special) combines the appropriate ingredients for the patient. Not all active ingredients can be combined, nor can an infinite number be included in one serum. Based on the answers, the system recognizes exactly which ingredient is the correct one, for example to minimize redness. Since each substance can have several properties, this depends exactly on the combination. The system automatically compiles the optimal dosage and mixes the serum individually right in front of the patient. Who carries out the anamnesis with the patient? The beauty of the Bellari concept is the combination of professional cosmetics and aesthetic medicine at one location.… weiterlesen

No Hollywood Celebrity could Resist this Scent

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The list of proms is endless. Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn, Marlene Dietrich were addicted to Krigler fragrances. Also the eccentric writer Ernest Hemingway and the legendary style icon Jackie Kennedy wore them. Today Ben Krigler, a trained chemist, continues the tradition of the luxury perfume house in the fifth generation. With a lot of empathy and creativity as we learned during the C&C-Interview: Do you remember your very first contact and experience with fragrance? Yes, it was when I was a child and my mother was working on perfumes she was creating for a client. She was mixing essences and I couldn’t understand at first what she was doing. She then explained to me that she was creating scents we smell. For a while as a child, I thought that she was creating every scents in the world. The scent of flowers, the scent of the ocean, the scent of food. For a while, she was like God. Then I understood. Which celebrities impressed you the most? In our situation, our fragrances have been adopted by celebrities. Mostly, the fragrances were purchased by celebrities. Such as Grace Kelly who was a client of our house in New York in the 1950s. She purchased Chateau Krigler 12 when she was still a debutante and a young actress. At Krigler, the most important part is the story behind the fragrance and that is what touches everybody, celebrities or you. F. Scott Fitzgerald and Marlene Dietrich both wore once Lieber Gustav 14. It’s the perfect example of a story that inspires people’s mind and chemistry. The fragrance was created as a symbol of eternal love between two human beeings in Berlin and Provence. It was a bridge over barriers. Is there a fragrance you have created exclusively for yourself? I have created Sierra Vista 2142 specifically for myself. But I launched it in 2014.
I just wanted to have a fragrance in the collection that embodies everything I like on me. What I do is I mix a lot of fragrances together on me, that’s my kind of exclusivity even though, anybody could do it. Please name a fragrance ingredient which will never be used by Krigler? Well today, I would say anything coming from animals. And I’m so glad for that. The industry has luckily evolved a lot. Which questions do you ask the person before you create a customized fragrance? There are about hundreds of questions we ask.… weiterlesen

In Search of the Blue Domes

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I may have found the famous postcard motif, but the myth of Santorini still evades me. I am torn between the goodwill I normally extend to a holiday destination that is new to me and the gut feeling I trust that when something just doesn’t seem right. And since I took this trip at my own expense, I am free to write the truth as I see it. So, my opinion: Santorini is completely overrated. Yes, the picturesque little villages with their white houses nestling on on the slopes or clustering around a hill are lovely. But this is the case on every Cycladic island. And yes, there are glorious sunsets to watch. But aren’t these to be found everywhere? Even at home in Bavaria? Volcano born In terms of geography and history, Santorini or Thera – as the Greeks call it – is an anomaly. The 92.5 km² large archipelago in the south of the Cyclades consists of five islands, formed by volcanic activities 3,600 years ago. The main island Thira, and the islands Thirasia and Aspronisi are grouped in a ring around the water-flooded Caldera, a kind of huge cauldron said to be around 400 meters deep. In its centre lie the two islands Palea Kameni and Nea Kameni, where the last volcanic eruption took place in 1950. So much for history. Donkey tour, no thanks! In aiming to do some relaxed exploring of Santorini at the end of June, I perhaps just picked the wrong month, It was not relaxed at all. Hordes of people pour off the cruise ships and, at a time, up to seven of these ocean giants can be found at anchor in the Caldera just outside the capital Firá. Once on land, passengers are carried up the steep path by donkey or mule. The “donkey tour” is also popular with those tourists not on cruise ships. This is just incomprehensible to me which is why I wasn’t tempted to take any photos. How can one enjoy such a ride, seeing the distraught animals toiling in the blazing sun, pressing themselves against the rocks in desperate search of shade. Without water, without food. After all, for a mere 6 Euros, the 220 meters to the top and back can easily be reached by cable car. Or one can walk up the 588 steps of the serpentine-like Karavolades stairs connecting Firá with the old port.… weiterlesen

Who really Wants to Look Sad and Tired?

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Unfortunately, when the eyebrows lower, this is usually the result. Often a small injection can help but sometimes more is needed. After an eyebrow lift, however, the face can look years younger. The eyebrows act as a sort of frame and give contour to the face. If they start to droop, the effect on the facial expression usually isn’t very positive “Many people look tired, exhausted or even unfriendly, even though they may feel fit, active and alert,” confirms Dr. Stefan Kalthoff of the Rosenpark Klinik in Darmstadt. Genetic predisposition or lifestyle consequences Such visible changes usually begin at the age of 40. “Our genetic predisposition plays an important role in this respect, but lifestyle can also influence the elasticity of the skin,” says Dr. Kalthoff. Because they press on the upper eyelid, sagging eyebrows can also cause the eyelids to droop and the field of vision may even be impaired. Since the muscle that lifts the eyebrows must constantly work against gravity, more wrinkles form on the forehead. The problem can be solved with a brow lift. This is a small, often underestimated operation with a huge effect, making the face immediately appear fresher and more open. It is essential, however, that the treatment be carried out by an expert and that a detailed consultation takes place beforehand. Browlift with Botox The easiest and quickest way to lift the eyebrows is with Botox. The botulinum toxin is injected above the eyebrow into the muscle which is responsible for its sinking. This creates a lifting effect that raises the eyebrow by about one to three millimeters. As the brow moves upwards, the eyelids also droop less. Since the change is minimal, it is not suited to cases where there is an extreme degree of sagging. The effect does not set in until about seven to ten days after the injection and wears off after four to six months. The advantage of this minimally invasive method is that the procedure is quick, painless and low risk. At the most, there may be small bruises and slight swelling at the injection site. Microfocused ultrasound Ultherapy is a non-invasive method for lifting the eyebrows which, on average, can achieve 2 to 3 millimeters. Dr. Sonja Sattler: “With Ultherapy’s microfocused ultrasound, the eyebrows, and thus the upper eyelid as well, can be gently lifted and shaped without surgery. Either the entire brow or the outer area alone is treated.… weiterlesen

Blue Hour at the Murnau Alpenhof

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When art, gastronomy and nature form an alliance, something very special comes into being. With three such mainstays, nothing can go wrong. Christian Bär (in the picture on the left), the congenial Murnau Alpenhof hotelier, extended an invitation to the festive installation of the exclusively designed Blue Chairs in his new garden. His motto: “A View of the Blue Country”. And indeed, all signs pointed towards blue. In the presence of Dr. Brigitte Salmen, Blaue Reiter (Blue Rider) expert, author, initiator and former director of the Murnau Castle Museum, the two blue, sculptured outdoor chairs, created by Ascona designer Carlo Rampazzi (in the picture on the right) and manufactured at the Sergio Villa’s Monza Studio, were unveiled. Blue cocktails were served, and Chef Claus Gromotka created a Diner en bleu for the Soirée bleu. And, as if in honour of this opening evening, the shimmering blue of the mountains changed to a soft pink at sunset. Unique blue pieces Up until this autumn, guests can enjoy the “View of the Blue Country” from the Blue Chairs and pose in them for photographs to their hearts’ content. “Everyone should take something blue with them from their stay at the Alpenhof,” says hotel manager Christian Bär. But if you want to become the proud owner of one of Carlo Rampazzi’s chairs, you’ll have to dig a little deeper into your pocket. The unique, handmade chairs cost around 4000 Euros each and it takes at least two weeks for one to leave Sergio Villa’s studio. Rampazzi: “Even a mistake made by a craftsman is a bit of art. And that’s what I like.” So far, only 25 of his blue metal armchairs can be found worldwide, so it’s unlikely that your neighbour will already have one in his garden. Carlo Rampazzi calls them relaxing chairs and indeed their shape, which fits snugly to the body, makes them very comfortable to sit in. The King of Colours “In the beginning we made the chairs in several different colours,” says Signore Rampazzi, “but our customers wanted only blue. So the chairs were born in blue, so to speak”. Originally they came with cushions of the same colour. “But they were just over the top. The armchair is a sculpture and that just took away from its beauty,” says the designer. For Rampazzi’s usually opulent style, the chairs are rather modest. Villas and apartments from Milan to Paris, from Miami to St.… weiterlesen

We need the Sun…

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…but we must safeguard our skin from its rays as well. What is the most effective way to protect ourselves and what can be done if the UV rays have already caused skin damage. Our relationship to the sun is ambivalent. We love it because it warms us, brightens our mood and gives our complexion a beautiful color. On the other hand, every sunburn increases the risk of skin cancer. So, here’s a little test to see how well you know how to deal with the sun. Did you know? The sun protection factor (SPF) multiplied by the skin’s own protection time indicates the amount of time one can be in the sun without any skin damage being caused. For example: SPF 30 at 10 minutes self-protection time, i.e. 30 x 10, results in 300 sun minutes with regular reapplication of sunscreen. However, dermatologists recommend moving into the shade after two thirds of the maximum time. Self-protection is the period of time during which the skin can protect itself from the sun. Depending on the skin type, this ranges between 5 and 15 minutes in our latitudes. If a sunscreen product is used, it can be extended according to the SPF. The amount of product necessary to provide adequate protection is more than you may think: About two milliliters are needed per square centimeter of skin, which corresponds to three tablespoons for the whole body. “Sun terraces” such as the forehead, nose, ears, neck, shoulders, décolleté and the arch of the foot usually need more. Sun cream should be applied every two hours. This is the only way to maintain the level of protection, as sweat, water and sand tend to remove the UV filters. It’s a common misconception, however, that that this prolongs the protective effect. Sun protection filters are distinguished by two operating principles: Mineral UV filters lie on the skin and reflect sunlight like small mirrors. They consist of natural, white pigments such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. Chemical UV filters penetrate the outer layer of the epidermis and absorb the rays. Benzone, trisiloxane or drometrizole, for example, are listed on the packaging. The UV rays have different wavelengths. While short-wave UV-B rays cause sunburn, long-wave UV-A contributes to skin ageing. The indicated sun protection factor (SPF) refers only to UV-B. For this reason, it’s advisable to look for the UV-A seal on the packaging. How does the expert protect herself?… weiterlesen

Mykonos and Delos – Two Worlds

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So near and yet so far. Only 40 minutes by ferry separate the two Aegean islands. But the difference couldn’t be greater. Mykonos: shopping and partying The modern Bohemian hustle and bustle of old and new hippies. Party till dawn. That’s what I’ve always heard about the island. But there are two distinct sides to Mykonos and by that I mean Mykonos Town. Chora is the name given by the Mykonites to a central place. During the day the city shines in the glistening white of the Cycladic houses and the dazzling blue of the sea. It feels as if I’m seeing real light for the first time, that’s how blinded I am. There’s a good reason why one shop after the other here sells sunglasses! Shopping in Mykonos is a lot of fun anyway. Be sure to visit Dimitris Halvatzis (#dimitrishalvatzis) and Mykonos Sandals. The narrow cobbled uphill and downhill streets are a labyrinth where visitors just love to get lost. Waiting around every corner is a new pretty shop, a cute restaurant or one of the countless mini churches. The squares with their restaurants, bars and cafés are often no bigger than a postage stamp. The edges of the houses are marshmallow round. Dresses, shoes, scarves and bags are trimmed with pom-poms. Everything is so cute that you can hardly describe anything without using words like sweet or pretty. This applies to Little Venice as well, a little gem with Venetian-style terraces and wooden balconies, overlooking the sea. A view of the famous white windmills, the landmark of the island, comes along the 5 Euro cup of cappuccino. For almost 400 years, all the grain was ground in the ten 16th century Kato Mili, of which five have been preserved. One of them now houses a museum. While the town is a bustling hive of activity during the day, it puts on its most glamourous face after sunset. Chains of lights twinkle everywhere, often strung between palm trees and bougainvilleas. The sun sinks into the sea in theatrical redness. And the starry sky – nowhere else could it be more beautiful. The clientele, mostly young, beautiful, hetero or gay – but above all well-heeled – glitters just as brightly. Up to 10 Euros for a beer is not uncommon. The most pleasant thing about all the hustle and bustle: the Mykonites take everything with relaxed friendliness and unshakeable tolerance, at the same time making one thing very clear: they are and remain the boss in the house.… weiterlesen

The Triangle of Beauty

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Decreasing volume causes the face to sag. The once narrow, defined chin area becomes wider and slack. Aesthetic goal: to rebuild facial harmony. From about the age of 25, gravity begins to constantly pull on the contours of the body. The aging process in the face becomes particularly clear when the so-called triangle of beauty is reversed. The youthful face has high cheekbones with full cheeks and a well-defined contour with a narrow chin where the imaginary triangle converges. When skin density and volume distribution change, the triangle is turned upside down. The broader part now lies in the lower area of the face with a widened, slacker chin contour and a sagging cheek area. The overall impression is often seen as sad and stressed. Unjustly neglected “It is quite normal that during our aging process not only the tissue sags, but bone substance is lost as well. This gradually changes the shape of the face and, in particular, the chin and jaw area suffer from the aging process. The reconstruction of this area to attain facial harmony was unduly neglected in aesthetic medicine for years,” confirms Dr. Gerhard Sattler, co-founder of the Bellari Institutes and Medical Director of the Rosenpark Klinik. Deep Tissue build-up To rebuild the chin and jaw area special fillers or, more precisely, injectable implants such as the new Juvéderm Volux, are required, which can be inserted deeper into the tissue. In contrast to superficial hyaluronic acid injections to combat wrinkles and fine lines, the tissue must be built up from below. The Vycross technology was developed for this purpose. It combines hyaluronic acid molecules of low and high molecular weight to form a tightly cross-linked gel. In the skin, this implant has a long duration of action and low water absorption. In this way, the effect is maintained for up to 24 months. Determination of width In the treatment of the chin, a series of injections is first placed directly on the mentum, the bone at the chin. Five to seven injection points are required for this width determination. Subsequently, three to five points of volume are injected into the chin (pogonion), directly under the muscle. First of all, the chin is extended and its width determined, then the volume or the actual chin is formed. The fold above the chin can also be optimally compensated with Volux. Since Volux is combined with the anesthetic Lidocaine, the patient feels almost nothing from the injection.… weiterlesen