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Author: Margit Rüdiger

CultureAndCream Author from Munich To travel during my profession as a beauty journalist was never enough for my. Also my six month on a world trip didn't do it. It always attracts me to other cities, foreign countries, on roadtrips and places I don't know yet. But I am not only interested in "culture" and "cream", I am also fascinated by people who have stories to tell .  Such unique experiences I want to share with you.

Tested for you: Artdeco „Magic Fix“

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I am an absolute fan of lipstick. I love orange to bright red. My red lips have always been something like a trademark for me. Therefore, since Corona has been with us, it has been extremely difficult for me to do without it. But who likes smeared lipstick on the mouth and stains of paint in the protective mask if you keep it off. A daunting idea for me. But now I have found something that can help. “Magic Fix” is the name of the solution. It is a liquid that is said to make the lipstick kiss and waterproof. I really wanted to try it out and had a test sample sent to me by Artdeco. To say it in advance: The product does what it promises. Seal your lipstick! So last night I went out in the evening, it was our wedding anniversary, after a long time I put on my favorite red lipstick again. With lipliner and everything that goes with it. As recommended, I then dabbed my mouth with a paper towel and put “Magic Fix” on it. It is a vial with a transparent, aqueous solution that is applied with a brush. According to the package insert, it contains nourshing essential oils like bergamot and lavender oil, plus alcohol. So I quickly spread the fixator over the entire mouth with the small brush, going beyond the lip edge. After all, the contour pencil should also hold well and not smear. At the beginning, something tingles on the lips, that’s what the alcohol does, but it evaporates noticeably quickly. Until then, do not close your mouth, but leave it slightly open. That’s all: the lipstick is sealed in seconds, so to speak. And the look? Nothing has changed. The matte red has been preserved, which also applies to glossy pencils. Then it gets interesting. At home, I do the wipe test with my fingers over my lips. Nothing gets stuck. I put on my mask at the entrance to the restaurant. Now I’m excited. The waiter leads us to our table and I take off the mask. An inquiring look at the inside of the fabric. Absolutely nothing. It is still as pure white as before. The drinks are served. I drink from my glass. There is no imprint on the edge. Then the food comes. Only minimal traces of lipstick remain on the light gray napkin.… weiterlesen

That Gets Under Your Skin

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Cosmetics are good and useful. But at most they can provide the skin with more energy in the short term. If you want more, you have to trust a Beauty Doc – an experienced, please! A new method is particularly promising. It is supposed to flood the tissue with moisture from the inside. Its name: Profhilo. Your skin looks a bit tired? And although you drink enough water, largely avoid alcohol and cigarettes and also get enough sleep. Then you are a candidate for Profhilo. This innovative process was recognized as the best anti-aging product at the Anti-Aging Medicine European Congress in Paris in 2015. It is based on hyaluronic acid (HA), a proven substance that also occurs naturally in the body. Their power lies in their high water binding capacity. More specifically, 1 gram of HA can bind up to 6 liters of water. Don’t worry, the face doesn’t look injected or puffy up afterwards. This is due to the special formulation of this highly concentrated hyaluronic acid. A special heating process combines high and low molecular weight HA chains into a hybrid. More moisture, more firmness Dr. Antje Söller from the Haut-und-Laserzentrum Munich, who has tried the method on herself and has beautified many patients with it, says: “With this method, we do not inject individual wrinkles, but instead set a small deposit at certain, fixed points that is easily visible for an hour or two. From this depot, this relatively thin hyaluronic acid floods under the skin layers and spreads over a large area, which means we don’t get this puffy effect. “The effect is a combination of moisture retention and skin tightening. Dr. Söller: “A specificity of this hyaluronic acid is that it is processed in such a way that it stimulates the body’s collagen and elastin production.” Five punctures per side Before the syringe is attached, the doctor marks five injection points per half of the face with a white eye pencil: On each side they are located directly in front of the ear, on the cheek, on the nasolabial fold, above the jawbone and on the chin area. The hyaluronic acid is injected subcutaneously, i.e. into the hypodermis. You hardly feel the punctures. After five minutes everything is over. No blood flows. Afterwards, there are small bumps at the puncture sites, but these are almost invisible after a short massage by the practitioner. There will be a lot going on under the skin over the next few days as the 64 mg hyaluronic acid is gradually distributed over 2 ml of the product that was injected.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: TeMana „Shape“ Smoothie

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This time it’s not about creams or lipsticks. “Beauty from within” is the subject of my new personal testing. I was particularly interested in the “Shape” fasting smoothie because I have been for many years an absolute fan of interval fasting to keep my figure or to get back in shape after some eating sins. But I don’t always want to count hours, and a change is good sometimes. Weight management with the “Shape” smoothie works on a similar principle to interval fasting. It was developed for the 5: 2 method. You choose two fasting days a week, which should not follow each other, and drink up to five pouches of „Shape“ on each of the two days. Each drink contains only 140 calories, but has the necessary nutrients from fruits and vegetables such as apple, pineapple, carrot, mung beans, peas, spinach, kombucha etc. It also contains noni fiber from the fruit of the Indian mulberry tree. In its Polynesian homeland, it is a true miracle cure for all kinds of diseases and is now also traded as a superfood everywhere. There is no dispute that it is healthy, but there is no scientific data on it that noni can do more than other fruits. No matter. In any case, the creamy smoothie tastes delicious of mango and passion fruit and has also their yellow color. I am well fed with five servings a day. Even when I’m on the go and have no time or desire to eat, I treat myself to a pouch of „Shape“ as an on-the-go snack. TeMana „Shape” fasting smoothie, 10 x 142 g, ca. $ 55 US… weiterlesen

Slip on and workout – always and everywhere

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EasyMotionSkin is the next generation EMS training. An almost wireless, blue bodysuit, an iPhone and the app are all you need. You train at home or on the go. It couldn’t be more convenient and effective. These workout numbers made me curious: 93% of the muscles are trained at the same time and in a way that is gentle on the joints, 33% increase in strength and 35% more endurance in 6 weeks and in addition a 3 x higher calorie consumption than with conventional training. And all this at just 2 times 20 minutes a week. I wanted to know more about it and tested the EasyMotionSkin suit at home for 10 weeks. EMS, i.e. electrical muscle stimulation, helps to build muscle, stimulates the metabolism and increases endurance. At the same time, the figure is optimized. No wonder! The better the muscle-fat ratio, the slimmer the silhouette. An avatar as a pre-gymnast To train with the blue, elastic special suit (made of an antibacterial high-tech fiber, machine washable at 30 degrees) of EasyMotionSkin you need an iOS device to load the app that is used to train. The connection to iPhone or tablet works via Bluetooth. A small avatar does the exercises on the monitor. The two short cables that you carry on your body allow maximum freedom of movement. They connect the stimulation unit, called the Powerbox, which is in a small pocket on the right hip, to the suit. You can train for around 12 hours until the battery needs to be recharged. The silicone dry electrodes are integrated into the important muscle zones inside the suit. As usual with EMS, you don’t need functional underwear or moistening. I only wear panties underneath. The knee-length suit is tight, but comfortable on the body. The electrical voltages applied to the skin irritate nerves and muscles, causing a contraction of the stimulated muscles. You can choose frequency, strength, break length and various training effects for strength, endurance and muscle tone. Every muscle group can be stimulated in a targeted manner. In this way, you can individually increase the training effect during sporting activities such as cycling. I actually tested the suit in all sorts of situations: Nordic walking, TRX workout, cycling and walking, and even shopping, cooking and vacuuming. It is actually the smallest gym in the world that can (almost) be used anywhere and at any time. Only with yoga it was rather counterproductive because muscle vibrations and meditation simply don’t go together.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Doctor Duve „Phytoceutix Eye Cream & Mask“

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I love duo products. If only because I enjoy traveling a lot – preferably with minimal luggage. That’s why I was particularly interested in “Phytoceutix Eye Cream & Mask”. Eye cream and eye mask in one. Let’s first take a look at the ingredients: BioNymph Peptides, Shea Butter and Hibiscus Vita. I find a new active ingredient particularly exciting: Vigna Aconitifolia Seed Extract, a vegetable retionol that acts as a wrinkle smoother and is considered to be well tolerated by the skin. It is supported by hibiscus, a substance that is not only responsible for the moisture effect. It is also known – a little exaggerated – as the botox plant, because the essences obtained from the flowers contain active substances inhibit elastase. It is the enzyme that is responsible for the breakdown of collagen in the skin. Accordingly, the botox plant should counteract the loss of elasticity of the skin tissue. I’m looking forward to what the cream can do for my skin! The first grip in the jar the white texture appears slightly pasty. Little remains of the product on the fingertip. But this is not bad either, because that way an “overdose” does not end up under the eyes. The product can then be smoothly spread on the skin, is quickly absorbed without shining and provides moisture. The first wrinkles of dryness are actually balanced after four weeks of use. I guess I still have to be patient with the tightening effect. The mask function impresses me more anyway. One should apply the cream 1-2 times a week in a slightly thicker layer, let it work for 10 minutes and then dab off the excess. I apply it in the evening as recommended – on the lower and also on the upper eyelids – but not too thick and I let it work in overnight. I use it every other day and I love it, because the next morning I see a brightly rested area of ​​the eyes in the mirror. I will definitely pack this jar for my next trip. Doctor Duve „Phytoceutix Eye Cream & Mask“, 30 ml, 120,00 Lead photo @Shutterstock… weiterlesen

Trend: Skin Care with Bacterial Cultures

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Cosmetics companies are increasingly relying on care products with bacterial cultures. The so-called probiotics are supposed to bring problem skin back into balance by balancing the “good” and “bad” bacteria. Probiotics are known from the grocery store. These living microorganisms are found especially in yoghurts and fermented foods such as sauerkraut. Their main task: They ensure a healthy intestinal flora. And now we should smear it on our faces! Sounds a bit disgusting at first. But of course there are no living organisms in the cream jar. “They are prepared beforehand in the laboratory and incorporated into the texture in a dissolved form,” explains Britta Klebon from the L’Oreal research department. The microbiome in the focus of science The word probiotic comes from the Greek and means something like “for life“. And that is pretty much the case, because probiotics in their original form are living microorganisms. We know about 400 different probiotics out of an estimated 40 trillion bacteria that are mainly on the mucous membrane of the large intestine. The most well-known are the lactic acid producing bacteria, which are called lacto- and bifidobacteria, and keep the intestine healthy. However, this finding is not new. As early as 1908, the Russian bacteriologist Ilja Metschnikow received the Nobel Prize in Physiology and Medicine for discovering that the lactic acid bacteria in yoghurt can support our immune system and fight pathogens in the human gut. The term “microbiome” is newer, and research into it has now become the focus of research after decoding the genome. It describes the entirety of all microbial roommates, including their habitats and ecological functions. It was shaped by the US molecular biologist Joshua Lederberg, who died in 2008. Decoding the microbiome is a mammoth task for science. The human body serves the diverse microbes (bacteria, viruses and fungi) with a total weight of up to 1.5 kg as a complex ecosystem. This primarily includes the bacteria in the intestine, but also those in the skin, urogenital tract, mouth, throat and nose. “What makes the evolution of microbes so fascinating and at the same time so worrying is their combination of huge populations with intense fluctuations within these populations,” Lederberg wrote in 2000. How a healthy microbiome should look is still unclear. Especially since everyone has their own, individually composed microbiome that is influenced by genetics, the environment and lifestyle. A kind of genetic fingerprint. The intestinal bacteria also teach our immune system to differentiate between “good” and “bad” germs.… weiterlesen

Testet for you: Studio Botanic „Face Serum“

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Try something vegan, I thought to myself. Even if I’m not the vegan type, I’m curious about it. “Less is more”, the motto of the German cosmetics manufacturer Studio Botanic, I like very much, because I think that you don’t have to overload the skin with umpteen active ingredients. I also like the packaging: puristic, timeless, clear. The products are naturally free from petrochemical derivatives like Silicone, mineral oils, petrolatum (Vaseline), paraffin wax. All ingredients are verifiably vegan, purely natural and high quality from certified organic cultivation. The face serum contains 2% vegetable hyaluronic acid for a skin-tightening effect. Thank to its long-, medium- and short-chains, the upper as well as the middle and lower skin layers can be optimally reached. Also in the product: hemp extract with important omega fatty acids for antioxidant protection and soothing cucumber extract. Vegan glycerin ensures optimal suppleness due to its moisture-binding effect, which takes place at the skin depth.And now for the test: The serum is rather viscous. I test it first on the back of my left hand. The drop that I drip onto my skin stays there exactly shaped without running. I pass it. The liquid is immediately absorbed into the skin and leaves a smoother surface compared to the other hand. Now it’s the turn of the face: I put three drops on my fingertips and spread the serum on the cleaned skin and neck. As I massage it in, I feel a slight stickiness that disappears quickly. My skin seems to be soaking up the serum, it feels smooth and a little plumper. After about three minutes I apply the day cream. Overall, my skin is happy with it, the complexion becomes a little smoother every day. The only downside: the serum should be used within six months after opening, because then the natural ingredients are most active! Studio Botanic „Face Serum“, 30 ml, ca. 45 Euro Lead photo: shutterstock… weiterlesen

Cosmetics also have an Expiry Date

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Last year’s sunscreen. The half-used lipstick. The cream that smells unpleasant. All cases for the trash can. As you muck out your wardrobe from time to time, you should also sort out your beauty products more often. Test the smell The basic question is: How do you know whether a product is still usable? First of all, the color. If it has changed, for example in the case of a perfume, then the product should be disposed. Another indication is the smell. As soon as you get a rancid or musty smell in your nose when you open the jar, the expiry date has passed. Even if something settles on the cream or the consistency flocculates, be sure to throw it away. The reason why cosmetics spoil is the same as with food. Germs and bacteria have a particularly easy time with moist products. Cosmetic products consist of a mixture of different oils, water, active substances and preservatives. Through skin contact such as fingers get the little “bad guys” into the product and cause it to “tip over” because the fats it contains become rancid. Look for the open cream jar symbol Icon of the expiry date Every cosmetic product has to have a kind of expiry date. The symbol is an open cream jar with a number indicating the months that the product is stable after opening. Unopened products must be stable for at least 30 months. This requires normal storage conditions, i.e. room temperature and no direct sunlight. Basically you can say that moist and very fatty products spoil faster than dry ones. A high proportion of water ensures that bacteria and microorganisms can multiply faster than in dry textures such as powder. This does not apply to cosmetics with a lot of alcohol (like perfume) because it is a good preservative. Alcohol-containing facial tonic therefore lasts up to three years, all others only two years. Natural cosmetics are often less stable for a long time because they often do without preservation. Incidentally, unless explicitly recommended, the refrigerator is not a good place to store beauty products. Emulsions, in particular, are chilled by the fact that fat and water separate, powders begin to crumble and lipsticks lose their color. To be disposed Mascara – Partially opened, but not used up. The mascara begins to crumble. How comes it? As the brush is constantly moved up and down, air gets into the tube, which dries out the texture.… weiterlesen

Check the Ingredients of your Hand Cream

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The hands can be happy – or maybe not. They have never been creamed after washing and disinfecting as often as in the past few weeks. But the ingredients that the skin on the hands now need are not in every cream tube or jar. You should also take care of what you are using as soap and disinfectants. Well-tried disinfectants, such as those used for surgical hand disinfection, contain substances that dry out the skin to a great extent. Above all, alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol, as well as ketones such as butanone, which is used as one of the most important industrial solvents in addition to acetone. Pathogens are reliably eliminated, but at the same time they attack the natural protective acid mantle of the skin and remove their fats. That makes them brittle and cracked. It is better to use disinfectants from beauty brands that not only target the bad germs, but also the well-being of the hands. For example, the “Hand Sanitiser” by Margaret Dabbs from London. It still contains the necessary amount of at least 60% alcohol, but is enriched with hemp seed oil and white water lily. Grown Alchemist‘s antiseptic gel with 70% ethyl alcohol, hyaluronic acid and antioxidants is even available in a 500 ml pump dispenser. If the skin is already visibly and noticeably damaged, you should make sure that the product contains no fragrances. They could make minor inflammation worse. So do the smell test first. If the smell is particularly artificial or fruity, it is better to take your hands off. Soap is not just soap A normal cleaning process that we got bled in as a toddler is hand washing. To protect yourself from the Covid 19 virus, it must be particularly extensive. It is recommended to soap the skin for at least 20 seconds, as often as possible. Frequent washing with strongly scented soaps can in turn lead to skin irritation. Classic curd soap does not use any additives or synthetics. Liquid “doctor soaps” are also fragrance-free. Block soaps offer a little more care, which by the way are back in fashion anyway. They are made from natural substances such as olive, palm or coconut oil. An extra portion of care and skin protection can also be achieved with baby oil. It gives the skin a protective oil film and provides moisture all day long. The wash water should also not be very warm or even hot.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Lipstick from La Beauté Hermès

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If the fairy godmother gave me a wish for a luxury item, I would commission her with a Birkin Bag. For me, the epitome of luxury. I have already given myself the little luxury – one of the new lipsticks from Hermès Beauté. Beauty is a novelty for the traditional house. Pierre Hardy, creative director in the company and responsible for shoes, jewelry and high jewelery, designed the precious object. The journey into the world of beauty startet five years ago. This year the collection of 24 lipsticks, 10 matte and 14 silky gloss, was launched. A refined selection inspired by the métiers silk with its infinite number of colors (75,000 shades) and leather (900 tones). Functional aesthetics The tri-color cover alone – brushed gold, black lacquer and an ivory tone – with the Hermès signature ex-libris engraved on the curved cap – is supple in the hand. The Hermès lettering is engraved in the lipstick. The cover closes with a sonorous clack. And it is an object forever that accompanies you for a long time. Because the lipstick is refillable. This time I chose the color Orange Boite 33. A summerly fresh and sunny orange. It is exactly the shade that I have been looking for for a long time. Its texture is just perfect: nice creamy and yet matt, long-lasting and yet not drying out. A successful debut for La Beauté Hermès. I think we can look forward to the next objects. New ones are to be presented every six months. “From make-up to skin care”, says the French traditional company. My only criticism: I find the brown leather case – although it is chic like a Birkin – for about $ 1.700 a little overpriced. Even if it is made in the typical craftsmanship of the luxury house. Rouge Hermès lipstick, $ 68… weiterlesen