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Author: Margit Rüdiger

CultureAndCream Author from Munich To travel during my profession as a beauty journalist was never enough for my. Also my six month on a world trip didn't do it. It always attracts me to other cities, foreign countries, on roadtrips and places I don't know yet. But I am not only interested in "culture" and "cream", I am also fascinated by people who have stories to tell .  Such unique experiences I want to share with you.

Acquittal for Aluminum Deodorants

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Four years ago, the media was full of warnings about harmful ingredients in cosmetics. Parabens in creams that are supposed to trigger allergies, silicones in shampoo that damage hair and, above all, aluminum chloride in deodorants, which is said to cause cancer and promote Alzheimer’s disease. But to this day, the supposedly critical ingredients are controversially discussed by science and have even been partially rehabilitated. As a result of these negative reports, the “clean beauty” beauty trend has clearly gained momentum. Of the 500 brands in the range of the German cosmetics giant Douglas, around 40 are now clean beauty. According to the American market research company NPD, 46 percent of facial skincare users report purchasing products free of sulfates, phthalates and/or gluten, representing a 6 point up-tick over the past two years. “Clean” manufacturers do without questionable ingredients, including cyclic silicones, butyl and propyl parabens, sulfates and mineral oil, but do not exclude synthetic ingredients. This is exactly the difference to natural cosmetics, which are made exclusively from natural raw materials. If you want to believe the current report published by the British Soil Association Certification in February 2019, the niche trend has long since become mainstream. Above all, Millennials and Gen Z have given the organic cosmetics and wellness market a sustained high. Is everything else now “dirty beauty”? Much is based on so-called “fear marketing”, which suggests to the consumer that all products that have not made it into the clean beauty ranks are automatically questionable. Above all, this happened with aluminum deodorants. Aluminum salts are used in many deodorants. They block the flow of sweat and inhibit odor formation. But they have long been suspected of being able to promote the development of cancer, since the breast tissue is particularly exposed due to the proximity to the armpit. Researchers led by Stefano Mandriota from the University of Geneva showed it in experiments with mammary gland cells from mice. “We now know enough to say that aluminum salts are toxic,” said the cancer researcher in 2015. But nothing was definitely proven. The few studies on the topic even provided contradicting results in some cases. In 2017 the Medical University of Innsbruck published an epidemiological study in the specialist journal „EBioMedicine”. This showed the correlation between the very frequent use of deodorants containing aluminum several times a day, especially at a young age, and the possibly increased risk of developing breast cancer later.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Mádara „Fake it“

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Because I never use foundation, but like self-tanning when the skin is pale, I wanted to be prepared for the coming winter. While looking for a suitable product, I came across a 100% vegan self-tanner. Natural cosmetics and artificial tans. How does that fit together? That was the first question that came to my mind and made me curious about the product. The ingredient list convinced me. Not a trace of chemistry. The tanning ingredient dihydroxyacetone (DHA), which hardly any self-tanner can do without, is derived at Mádara through the fermentation of natural components such as sugar beet. It is this substance that gives the skin that lightly tanned shade by reacting with the amino acids on the surface of the skin. Unfortunately, because it also has a slightly drying effect, “Fake it” is enriched with moisturizing hyaluronic acid, jojoba oil and antioxidants. And now for the test: The healthy glow Surprising for me: the self-tanner is used overnight. How good that I read the instructions on the package beforehand. In any case, I clean the skin as usual in the evening and do a good peeling. Then I take two pumps – almost a little too much – from the dispenser and use my fingertips to spread the “Healthy Glow Serum” evenly over the face and neck. The whitish serum feels light and soft on the skin and smells pleasantly citric. It is quickly absorbed and leaves no noticeable layer or greasy sheen. I was afraid of my bed linen! You shouldn’t forget to wash your hands thoroughly with soap – even between your fingers – otherwise brown edges will remain. The next morning: The first look at the pillow. Clean! The next look in the mirror: an evenly softly tanned complexion. Naturally beautiful. The shade is actually perfect, but I would like to know if there is still more possible. So, to intensify the color, I apply “Fake it” a second time, following my usual care routine. I work at home for the next few hours, so no “color mishap” can happen that I don’t dare to go out on the street. The “new” result can be seen for around five hours: I’m a little more tanned, but still in the “natural, sunkissed” category. When I later leave the house, I also use a sun protection cream because the sun is still relatively strong in these autumn days and the self-tanner does not contain any sun protection.… weiterlesen

Parabens – Everything You Need to Know

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There is so much conflicting information about parabens, you’re probably wondering what to believe. That’s why we created this easy-to-navigate FAQ with all the facts. What is a paraben? Parabens are a class of preservatives used in food, skin care and personal care products. They are esters of parahydroxybenzoic acid. Use of parabens in cosmetic products has been declining with reformulations, however you can identify parabens within the ingredient listing on a product label. Common parabens are listed as Methylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Ethylparaben, Isopropylparaben or Propylparaben. Are parabens safe? Generally speaking, at the levels that they are used, parabens are considered to be safe. But there is a lot of controversy around this subject, specifically between paraben exposure, health effects and health risks and you’ll learn more as you read on. Why are parabens used? Parabens are used in beauty products, skin care, hair care and even some toothpastes and deodorants, to protect products (and you) from microbiological contamination. Preservation and product shelf life is extremely important when it comes to skin care products, especially moisturizers and creams used around the eyes. Bacterial contamination can cause severe irritation and can even lead to infection. Why are parabens controversial? In 2004, a study was released showing the presence of parabens in breast tumors. The online community quickly assumed that parabens cause cancer. The author later came forward and clarified that the intention of the study was to show that parabens can accumulate in the body intact, not that they cause breast cancer. However, by then, the damage was done, and the entire personal care industry had moved away from parabens. Are parabens harmless? Not entirely. Methylparaben is proven to accumulate in the skin and decrease cellular renewal, so it’s possible to disturb hormone function, triggering premature aging with continued use. Butylparaben has an estrogenic effect, acting as endocrine disruptors. They may bind to estrogen receptors, having unknown effects. Parabens, in general, are shown to sensitize the skin, especially when applied to damaged or broken skin. However, broken skin is already more sensitive, so this is not a surprising result. If I’m not concerned about sensitivity, should I use them? Are there other paraben dangers? The chemical structure of parabens may cause even the most adventurous product enthusiasts to opt out. For one, the paraben structure contains formaldehyde. Products sold in California that use parabens are required to display a Prop 65 warning, due to the presence of formaldehyde within the paraben chemical structure.… weiterlesen

Testet for you: Avoa „Nail Wraps“

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During her five-year stay in Japan, Kathrin discovered a beauty idea that she brought to Munich and realized: nail wraps. Her goal was to create easy-to-use nail foils that are not only trendy in terms of design. The Avoa founder (formerly Maruxa) also focuses on sustainability. Except for the foils themselves, everything is made locally in Germany and Austria from recyclable materials, if possible with CO2 compensation. In addition, the outer packaging is designed so that there is space for up to five foils and less paper waste is generated. But do the wrapped nails really look like they have been painted or can you tell the difference at first glance? And how about the durability? I wanted to know more about that. Cat calling This is the name of the self-adhesive foils that I chose from over 40 motifs for testing. A fancy cool animal print in red on a pink background with a slight glimmer effect. A strong contrast to my nails, which are usually painted in greige (gray / beige). Hopefully my patience will be enough to hold out to the tenth finger. Tedious tinkering is not really my thing. But sticking them on is actually easy and quick. The wraps are so thin that they can be applied to the degreased nails without wrinkles. I first cut off the excess with nail scissors and file the rest to my nail shape. I use a rosewood stick on the nail bed and the side edges to smooth the film down completely. Finally, I apply a layer of transparent varnish to fix it. I spread it over the nail tips to make the film even more durable and to prevent it from peeling off. After 15 minutes I’m done with both hands. The result actually looks like it has been painted. A huge advantage: I don’t have to worry about paintwork failures, which otherwise happens to me all the time. Hardly any of my paint jobs is done perfect because I usually can’t wait for the necessary drying time. Now the only question remains: How long will my animal print nails last? After seven days they are still intact. Only the index finger got a little flaw on the edge and needs to be repaired. I file the area smooth again and apply some topcoat over it. I’ve never had perfectly painted nails for so long. And how do you remove them again?… weiterlesen

Vitamin C, the immune booster

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Especially now in autumn, the water-soluble vitamin is back in fashion because it strengthens the immune system. And in the current Corona times, it is even more in demand. Vitamin C also protects and supports the skin. But not everyone can take it. Have you ever heard of a vitamin C allergy or intolerance? Neither do I until I got it. To be more precise, I reacted extremely badly to ascorbic acid, as vitamin C is also called. It started with the fact that every time I took pain pills that combined acetylsalicylic acid (ASA) with ascorbic acid, I got thick puffiness under my eyes. If I ate too many foods containing vitamin C, I felt sick and the toilet became my best friend. Often times I wasn’t even aware of an overdose. Because vitamin C is not only found in fruits and fresh vegetables, where one suspects it. It is also used as an additive in many products, such as sausages and meat products, to make them more durable and prevent discoloration. Because ascorbic acid reduces the formation of free radicals, which can arise from the oxygen in the air. So it’s a natural antioxidant. Unfortunately, I didn’t succeed much better with vitamin C in cosmetics either. Instead of glow and long-lasting moisture, redness and pustular appearances adorned my face. And what does the dermatologist say? Dr. Hans Peter Schoppelrey, dermatologist and allergist at the „Haut- und Laser Zentrum“ in Munich, promptly provided me with confirmation that one can actually be allergic to vitamin C. “It’s true,” he says. “But for the medical professionals it was rather a surprising finding that some people develop intolerance and even allergies to vitamin C taken orally. However, many products today contain industrially produced, high-dose vitamin C. In the event of an overdose, the vitamin is excreted in the urine because it is water-soluble, but some of it can be stored on the passage through the intestine.“ And because vitamin C also travels through the kidneys, problems with an overdose can occur, especially in people with underactive kidneys. Oxalic acid is then increasingly formed in the kidneys, which promotes the formation of kidney stones. And how does an allergic reaction manifest itself? “With bitches on the tongue, gas and diarrhea,” explains Schoppelrey. “Perioral dermatitis can occur around the mouth.“ How can you tell when it is better to avoid cosmetics containing vitamin C? Schoppelrey: “Vitamin C on the skin can cause two reactions.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Cicé „Peelingserum“

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The skin care line is vegan, free of critical ingredients and comes from German production. It was originally developed by the two founders Catharina von Rogister and Bernadette Brysch in 2007 for aesthetic plastic surgeons, especially for use before and after operations. This means that the products are extremely soothing to the skin. For me all indications to take a closer look at them. I chose the peeling serum for testing. I have to admit, as an impatient person, I was particularly interested in the fact that you don’t have to sit around somewhere and wait for it to take effect and then wash off again. No, the peeling serum is applied overnight! Night shift The serum comes out of the dispenser in a transparent and homogeneous liquid. It is easy to spread on cleansed skin and is massaged in without any mechanical scratching grains tampering with the skin. I never liked that feeling! At first you can smell the fruit acids contained, eight in number such as salicylic, glycolic and lactic acids, which are responsible for the peeling effect Sabiwhite, an extract from turmeric root, works against age and pigment spots, while glycerol and pantheon (provitamin B5) moisturize and soothe the skin. After about ten minutes my face begins to tense slightly. But in order not to disturb the peeling effect, I can only apply my night care after 30 minutes. It can be easily distributed over it. The next morning I clean the skin as usual. It feels good – delicate and soft. Twice a week I use the peeling serum in the evening and use it to specifically treat my oily T-zone with the enlarged pores. After about four weeks, the complexion looks more even, the pores already look a bit smaller and the T-zone does not grease so quickly. I’ve already got used to the sour smell when I applied it. Cicé, „Peelingserum“, 30 ml, ca. 69 Euro Lead photo: masarik@shutterstock, Cicé (2)… weiterlesen

Vacation in a Historic Austrian Castle

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Dürnstein Castle was built in 1630 and converted into a five-star hotel with charm. Its location: In the heart of the Wachau with the most beautiful view of the Danube. The Wachau at the gates of Vienna is one of the most beautiful river landscapes in the world. And the Hotel Schloss Dürnstein (Schloss means castle in English) is in her heart. It is a magical place with a long history. Want to hear a little history? The building was built between 1622 and 1630 by Christoph Wilhelm von Zelking. The architect Cypriano Biasino from Krems took on the planning of the original square courtyard. In 1663 the property was sold to Conrad Baltasar, Count von Starhemberg. It remained in the family’s possession until 1937, when Raimund Thiery acquired the unique historic complex. It was also he who began the renovation into a hotel. It was finally completed by his son Johann and his wife Rosemarie. But it wasn’t until the early 1970s that Raimund Thiery opened the castle gates to guests for the first time. The Hotel Schloss Dürnstein is now run by the third generation of the Thiery family. It was one of the first members of the Relais & Chateaux association outside of France. Tastefully furnished by the landlady The castle has 47 rooms. Each one is furnished with precious antiques and exudes luxury and individuality. Old ceramic stoves have been restored down to the last detail, the furnishings – whether Biedermeier or Louis-seize – have been lovingly put together by Rosemarie Thiery, mother of the current hotel manager Christian. She sewed many curtains herself because the right ones weren’t available “off the shelf“. The rooms have a wonderful view of the Dürnstein ruins, the picturesque town of Dürnstein and the river Danube. In addition to the main house, there is a 6 person villa with three bedrooms and three holiday apartments for 4 people each with a sauna and a plunge pool in the garden. Two minutes’ walk from the castle, the barbeque restaurant “Küffer Keller” invites you with a swimming pond and lounge pavilion in the romantic garden landscape. There is space for 35-40 people. And there is also a cellar parlor including a vinotheque if the weather doesn’t cooperate. The rich and the beautiful Schloss Dürnstein’s guest book reads like a who’s who of celebrities from politics, business, society and the nobility. In addition to the dedications from tenor José Carreras and painter Ernst Fuchs, politicians such as former German Chancellor Walter Scheel and Valéry Giscard d’Estaing, former President of France, and Ronald Reagan’s Finance Minister George Pratt Shultz (stuck a one dollar bill in the guest book next to his name) have immortalized themselves to crowned heads like the Japanese Emperor Akihito, Prince Henrik of Denmark or the King of Thailand.… weiterlesen

Testes for you: Clarins „Brow Duo“

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With my eyebrows, I’m pretty picky about corrective products. Yes, I have to correct them in certain places. Sins of youth Unfortunately, for years when thin eyebrows were the trend, I plucked them so hard that I had smaller holes in the arches where the hairs no longer grew back. Although my brows are naturally very dark, the correction color must not be too dark, because it looks unnatural. Most of the hairs stick together unattractively because the brush absorbs too much paint. And then I always need two products: one to fill up, one to tame the stubborn hairs. Two-in-one The new brow duo fulfills this requirement at first glance. The slim pencil has two good sides – brow powder on one side and brow mascara on the other. I apply the tinted powder with the applicator. It feels cool on the skin. How comes? The texture is formulated in such a way that when it is applied it transforms into a fresh, watery gel that can be spread perfectly – without blunders and without sticking. The color “cool brown” blends in perfectly with my brows. I start at the gap and pass it on both sides. The first step is taken. Now it is the turn of the matching mascara. The thin brush doesn’t take up too much of the texture. This allows the eyebrow hairs to be shaped and disciplined well. I always brush them lightly upwards at the roots, because that opens up the view. The result? Exactly how I want it to be. Emphasized, but not overdone. Clarins „Brow Duo“ in 03 , ca. 27 Euro… weiterlesen

For every Wrinkle the Right Hyaluronic Acid Filler

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The nasolabial fold bothers you? Or the little hanging cheeks? With the right hyaluronic acid fillers, wrinkles can be smoothed and contours improved – and thus completely natural-looking results can be achieved. What many do not know: It is not necessarily the annoying wrinkle that is treated, but a completely different part in order to get the desired result. Dr. Isabel Edusei, a specialist in plastic and aesthetic surgery from Berlin, explains what she means by modern filler treatments. Why is it no longer directly injected under the fold, but mostly treated with hyaluronic acid in completely different places? Dr. Isabel Edusei: The nasolabial fold is a very good example of this. It is an expression of a structural weakness in the cheek region. To put it simply: the soft tissue sinks here with the aging process, but is held up by a cord of connective tissue that extends from the nostril to the corner of the mouth. This results in a contour jump that we classically call the nasolabial fold. If we want to smooth this wrinkle, we have to treat the cause of what happened, that is, first fix the soft tissue on the zygomatic bone again and thus stabilize the midface. I use so-called structure fillers from the Vycross collection such as Voluma and Volux from Juvéderm. The term Vycross Technologie is based on a special, patented gel formulation that ensures that the filler is quickly integrated into the skin tissue and that the result can therefore appear particularly natural. Are there more such surprising effects? Yes, a lateral straightening of the eyebrows and upper eyelids can be achieved by working in the temple area. When the chin is raised, the neck tightens. And when hyaluronic acid filler is used on the lateral arch of the jaw approximately below the ears, the lateral lower jaw line tightens. Can individual areas such as the chin be treated specifically or should the entire face always be included? First of all, it is important to analyze exactly which areas of the face are suffering from structural weaknesses, what are the causes and how they can be treated. For example, a 20 year old woman may have problems in the same facial area as a 45 year old. The treatment in this case is identical and it does not always have to include the whole face. If there has not yet been any significant structural breakdown in the face, it is of course also possible to set special accents.… weiterlesen

Testet for you: Grn „Anti-Wrinkle Mask“

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The name reads a bit awkward: GRN, because the “ü” has been replaced by a leaf. The German word „grün“ means „green“ in English. The design makes sense when you know that it is a certified organic cosmetics brand from Germany that only came onto the market last year. Now I’ve got it too. I like that all Grün Elements masks are packed in handy pouches with a practical screw cap. This not only saves waste compared to conventional tubes and pots, but is also perfect when traveling. Apply mask and close again. There are three variants: Calm & Clear with yellow clay against impurities, hydration with honey & hemp for dry skin and rejuvenation with grape & olive for firming. The three can also be used for multimasking in order to tailor them precisely to the current needs of the various areas of the face. Especially those who have to wear the protection face mask for many hours every day know the problem that the region in the mouth and chin area reacts differently than, for example, on the cheeks. For me personally, however, this is too much “blotchy” on the face, so I limit myself to the latter for demanding skin. The smell test first The mask smells pleasantly “green”. I smell more grapes than olives, but the beeswax is the most intense. The texture is pleasantly rich and creamy. It is easy to spread and is so extensive that the resealable 40ml sachet is safely sufficient for four applications on the face and décolleté. I leave out the eye and mouth area. The mask is not tight on the skin, but you can tell that something is happening under the layer of cream. After a good 10 minutes, the skin has already absorbed it in many places. I remove the remains with a damp cloth. The complexion is even, feels soft and slightly plumped up. It’s just a shame that the beautiful result cannot be preserved longer than a day. But unfortunately that doesn’t work with any cosmetic product. Grn „Anti-Wrinkle Maske“ , 40 ml, ca. 6 Euro… weiterlesen