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Author: Margit Rüdiger

CultureAndCream Author from Munich To travel during my profession as a beauty journalist was never enough for my. Also my six month on a world trip didn't do it. It always attracts me to other cities, foreign countries, on roadtrips and places I don't know yet. But I am not only interested in "culture" and "cream", I am also fascinated by people who have stories to tell .  Such unique experiences I want to share with you.

Tested for you: 30% Vitamin C in „Boost Up“ from Trinny London

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Vitamin C gives the skin the ultimate glow. But that’s not all, because this vitamin is a real all-rounder: it is effective against pigmentation spots and protects the complexion from environmental pollution and damage caused by sunlight. However, most commercially available skincare products only contain ten to 15 percent of the active ingredient. For this reason alone, I was curious to see what effect I could achieve for my skin with the 30% vitamin C boost from Trinny London. This super-powerful serum not only contains a high concentration of vitamin C in the form of ethyl ascorbic acid. This is particularly effective as it does not need to be converted into pure ascorbic acid in the skin. In addition, ethyl ascorbic acid is very stable in cosmetics, can have a long-term effect and is very well tolerated. In “Boost up”, together with plankton extract and natural microalgae, it strengthens the skin’s natural defenses. Vitamin C for a glow in the morning “Vitamin C has always been one of my great passions. Our radiant serum with 30 percent vitamin C makes the skin brighter and the complexion more even. “Boost up is the best morning boost for your complexion. I can’t get enough of it.” Trinny Woodall, founder & CEO Due to the high concentration of active ingredients, the manufacturer recommends the product “only for very experienced skincare users”. Boost up” is not suitable for first-time users of vitamin C, i.e. people who have never used highly active products before or who have sensitive or irritable skin. Such a highly concentrated formulation can cause irritation to very sensitive skin. Patch test on the forearm To ensure that the serum is well tolerated, a patch test (e.g. on the forearm) is recommended before the first application. The best way to do this is to apply a pump of the product to the forearm and leave it on overnight to check how well it is tolerated by the skin. I have to admit that I didn’t do the patch test. My skin has been used to highly active ingredients such as retinol for years. However, for safety reasons, I only used the vitamin C serum every other day in the morning in the initial phase and then applied a sunscreen to gradually acclimatize my skin to the active ingredient. The ultimate complexion boost – this is what my skincare routine looks like: After cleansing in the morning, I apply a pump to the face (avoidin Beginners use the serum twice a week to start with and slowly increase the application to daily use.… weiterlesen

TikTok – What Fascinates Young People About It

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TikTok is a topic that cannot be ignored when dealing with young people today. No other social platform is currently captivating young people as much. With the study “TikTok unvarnished”, the IKW (Industrieverband Körperpflege- und Waschmittel) has investigated the role this platform plays in the lives of Gen Z. What fascinates young people about it? How does TikTok influence the process of self-discovery and which topics are particularly relevant? TikTok is not just new and exciting. This has been shown by the depth-psychology-representative youth study. Rather, the platform performs important functions in the lives of young people. While Instagram mainly helped young people to stage a perfect dream world, TikTok is seen as more authentic and closer to reality. Young people trust TikTok more than any other social platform and use the recommendations and tips given here to further optimize themselves and their own mindset. When switching off is not an option The young people themselves speak of an addiction – more than 20 percent use TikTok between 3 and 10 hours a day. Yet they actually know exactly what they are doing when they spend hours on TikTok. Critically, they themselves note that they become “stupid and addicted” by constantly watching TikTok. But only very few manage to switch off consistently. Many tend to have a kind of “on-off relationship”. They repeatedly delete the app – only to return to the platform after a short time. 70 percent of the young people surveyed in the IKW-Studie* feel that TikTok is addictive due to the constant release of dopamine. 69% see their ability to concentrate at risk, and 61% admit that they cannot process anything they see on TikTok. The flood of images that young people are exposed to on the platform is huge. Short videos lasting just a few seconds are sometimes consumed for hours. Between searching and addiction But what prevents young people from simply switching off TikTok? The young people themselves say it’s the fear of missing out. Friends might already know about a new trend, but you don’t yet. In the worst case scenario, you could end up no longer belonging to a certain trendy community. And so young people continue to use TikTok. 
 In general, two mental states were identified in the study. In the first state, young people actively and consciously use TikTok to search for information – the platform’s search function is also referred to as “Google”.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: „Purifying Night Serum“ from Typology

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The Purifying Night Serum can do for us what only Sleeping Beauty experiences in fairy tales: fall asleep gently and wake up the next morning feeling refreshed and a little more beautiful. Typology’s oily night serum cares for the skin while you sleep. Because healthy sleep hygiene is important for the body’s recovery, but also for the regeneration of the skin. Sleep well! For healthy sleep hygiene, it is important not to go to bed too late. Preferably before 11 pm. And you should stick to this daily or nightly so as not to disturb the body’s “circadian rhythm”. So before going to bed, turn off your screen and put your cell phone out of reach. Instead, read a book or listen to relaxing music, which calms the senses. It’s also important not to eat too much in the evening. In particular, avoid processed foods that are high in fat, sugar, alcohol and caffeine. The body has to work at full speed to break them down. This causes restlessness. Highly processed foods can also dehydrate the skin and promote inflammatory processes. It is therefore better to eat foods that promote the release of melatonin to regulate the sleep-wake cycle. These include tomatoes, pistachios and grapes, as well as anything rich in calcium and vitamin B6, such as vegetables and pulses. The best sleeping position Our sleeping position has a significant influence on the appearance of our skin. When sleeping on our side or stomach, the facial tissue is exposed to various shearing, pressure and tensile forces. The skin is stretched and pulled in all directions. “Sleep wrinkles” can occur. The “best” way to sleep is therefore on your back, or you can use a suitable side sleeper pillow. If you sleep too little in the long term, you can expect an increase in glucocorticoids, pro-inflammatory cytokines and free radicals. In addition, our complexion tends to turn grayish as blood circulation decreases. Cleansing night serum: care while you sleep The Botanical Oil night serum from Typology cleanses and regenerates the skin while you sleep. Moisturizing substances counteract the loss of moisture during the night. It works best if you give it enough time – i.e. at least 7 – 9 hours of beauty sleep. Then it can penetrate particularly deeply into the skin and develop its regenerating powers. The skin is nourished and cared for with peony, jojoba oil and tea tree.… weiterlesen

Cortisol Face – A Weird TikTok Trend Or More?

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The so-called “cortisol face” or “moon face” has been causing a stir on social media channels for some time now. In their videos, young people claim that their chubby face is the result of too much stress – and too high cortisol levels. In some cases, one post reaches over 5 million views. Statements such as “You’re not ugly, you just have a cortisol face” are then made. Everyday stress is said to be to blame. Cortisol is actually the most important stress hormone that our body produces. This so-called steroid hormone is produced by the adrenal glands and helps to regulate metabolism, control our immune and stress responses and maintain blood pressure. The body also releases more cortisol in everyday stressful situations. Similar to adrenaline and noradrenaline, it prepares us for a fight or flight situation. This means that blood pressure and blood sugar levels rise, the immune system is suppressed and the fat, protein and carbohydrate metabolism works more intensively. If cortisol levels in the body are high in the evening, this can lead to sleep disorders. Cortisol as a wake-up-call Normally, however, the cortisol level is at its lowest at night when we sleep because it is continuously reduced during the course of the day. In the morning, however, more cortisol is released to make the body more efficient during the day. Shortly after waking up, it even acts as a natural stimulant. In normal quantities, this steroid hormone is therefore not harmful, but vital. Of course, too much cortisol can be harmful to health in the long term. But so far there is no medical proof that everyday stress leads to such serious consequences as those associated with a rare disease known as Cushion syndrome. It causes fluid retention in the face with fat deposits on both sides of the face, giving it a rounder or puffy appearance. Hence the unflattering term cushion face or moon face. Fat deposits also on the body However, a persistently high cortisol level not only leads to increased fat deposits in the face, but often also in the abdominal area. Even the shoulders and neck can look thicker. Last but not least, the skin structure can be affected. “It becomes thinner and small bleedings often occur under the skin,” says Dr. Petra Algenstaedt, hormone expert and Medical Director at the UKE Hamburg. “This often leads to cycle disorders and sometimes also to mood swings and psychological changes.”… weiterlesen


Tested for you: Contour Lift “Sérum Affinant Visage” by Eisenberg Paris

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Tested for you: Contour Lift “Sérum Affinant Visage” by Eisenberg Paris

A contour lift tightens the area in the chin region and where the face merges into the neck. As the skin ages, the “sagging cheeks” become more or less obvious. This is why you should take countermeasures in good time with a firming product – and not just when the skin is already very “loose”. Contour lift with V-shaped effect The new Eisenberg serum from Paris offers a comprehensive contour lift. “Sérum Affinant Visage” not only tightens the tired oval of the face, but also combats double chins and loss of elasticity on the neck. The light gel serum is applied from the center of the chin along the jawline outwards to the ears to create a V-shaped lift effect. Then, starting from the lower cheek area, massage the neck from top to bottom (see massage directions below). But daily care does not end at the chin, as we know. The delicate and much thinner skin on the neck and chest is even more susceptible to dehydration and premature signs of ageing than the skin on the face. This is simply due to the fact that it has fewer sebaceous glands to keep it supple. Lift up the décolleté But there are other factors that cause the neck and décolleté to age prematurely. These includes physical changes such as weight fluctuations, pregnancies and breastfeeding. Weight gain also affects breast size, causing the skin to stretch. If this is followed by weight loss, the reduction in fatty tissue does not always allow the overstretched skin to tighten again. So if you want to go one step further in your skincare routine, follow up with the facial serum “Soin Cou, Décolleté et Poitrine”, also from Eisenberg Paris. This cream has been specially developed for the needs of the neck and décolleté. If you wish, you can also include the breast. The silky, non-greasy texture of the product is immediately absorbed, deeply moisturizes and regenerates the tissue. An innovative formula What is so special about the Eisenberg formula? The Trio-Molecular Formula combines three molecules. Enzymes remove dead skin cells and promote the best possible assimilation of the active ingredients. This ensures a better quality of the cell mantle. At the heart of molecular cell communication, cytokines improve the firmness of the skin. Biostimulins promote the oxygenation of cells and stimulate collagen and elastin synthesis. Together, they boost the results of targeted active ingredients and ensure rejuvenated, firmer skin.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: „Enzyme Peeling Powder“ from A4 Cosmetics

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Enzyme peelings are the alternative to mechanical scrub preparations. Mechanical means that the product works with small abrasive particles to remove dead flakes and superficial calluses from the skin. These consist of sugar, crushed almond or cherry kernels or rice bran, for example. However, there are also rub-on particles made from microplastics. These could cause micro-injuries to the skin due to the sharp edges and are also bad for the environment. The plastic particles are insoluble in water, difficult to break down and can accumulate in the organisms of aquatic animals. Complete chemical degradation can take several hundred years. It is therefore essential to buy products without microplastics! Enzymes provide the exfoliating effect For me, only enzyme peelings come into question anyway, because I don’t like the rubbing feeling on the skin. Instead of abrasive particles, an enzyme peeling contains activating enzymes that gently remove dead skin cells. I tested the Enzyme Peeling from A4 Cosmetics. It is a mild cleanser that also tightens the pores. The pack contains 15 small sachets containing a fine white powder. If you don’t use the entire contents with every application, the 15 sachets are sufficient for approx. 30-45 applications. To use, open the sachet and sprinkle the required amount of powder onto the palm of your hand. Mix it with a few drops of lukewarm water. It is important to find the optimum mixing ratio. Too much will make the powder too runny, too little will cause it to clump. The gentle cleansing When properly foamed, it creates a pleasantly creamy substance that can be easily spread over the moistened face, neck and décolleté. Always avoid the eye area! Gently massage in the enzyme peeling and then rinse off with lukewarm water. My skin looks fresh and clear afterwards. However, it also feels a little dry and requires a day or night cream, depending on when I had time for the peeling. In any case, you should not exfoliate more than once or twice a week. A4’s active ingredient care also lives up to its claim of natural-based active ingredients in the Enzyme Peeling. The exfoliating powder is full of goodies: Eco-certified argan oil. With an extremely high vitamin A and E content, it stimulates cell activity and renewal. Caffeine supports this effect. Activating enzymes gently remove dead skin cells. Aloe vera from controlled organic cultivation also moisturizes the skin. Argan fruit peels dissolve keratinized cells and impurities and stimulate the skin’s cell activity.… weiterlesen

Polyphenols – Longevity aus Pflanzen

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Polyphenols are essential for the survival of plants. But they can also provide important services to human health. Milan-based scientist Prof. Adriana Albini has made an astonishing discovery in olive press water. Polyphenols are found in almost every fruit and vegetable, in herbs and also in some foods known as superfoods, such as cocoa powder, chokeberries and blueberries. These so-called secondary metabolites primarily have an antioxidant effect. Many compounds serve as defense substances against pests, diseases and much more. Colorful flower pigments are also plant phenols and attract insects for pollination, for example. However, polyphenols are mainly found in the outer layers of plants (e.g. the skin and the peel). And this is where olives come into play. The dark water obtained during pressing contains an enormous amount of highly effective polyphenols. It is actually a waste product, as we mainly appreciate the oil obtained in the process. This is not the case at Fattoria La Vialla in Meliciano, Tuscany. There, the olive press water is not disposed of, but filled into small jars and sold as a dietary supplement. The tradition of “acqua mora” in Italy is a long one. The ancients have always drunk the bitter elixir of longevity. Nonna Caterina, the great-grandmother of the Lo Francos, is said to have drunk two glasses of it a day during the olive harvest – and lived to be 98 years old. Polyphenols from a scientific point of view Dr. Adriana Albini, who works at the European Institute of Oncology – IEO in Milan and mainly researches inflammatory processes in the body and cancer prevention, examined the OliPhenolia from the Fattoria in more detail. When and how did you come into contact with OliPhenolia? Ah, that’s a nice story. It happened a few years ago. I was speaking on an Italian television program about dietary derivatives for health. The Lo Franco family, owners of Fattoria La Vialla, were watching and asked me if I would be interested in investigating their product, which was obtained from the filtration of “waste water” from olive flour. This olive press water is very rich in healthy substances, especially polyphenols. So I agreed to research it scientifically. We then started to purify the extract and test it on cells in the laboratory. Had you ever heard of “acqua mora” before? Not directly. But it has long been known that olive oil has a positive effect on the human organism.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Lifting and firming “Eye Lift Concentrate” from Noble Panacea

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Lifting and firming is the most important thing for a youthful eye area. To achieve these effects, Noble Panacea has developed a special concentrate with OSMV technology. It allows active ingredients to be encapsulated and released into the skin in a pre-programmed sequence and dosage, which can increase the effectiveness of a skincare product by up to ten times. This micro-dosed, gradual and precisely controlled release of ingredients offers two key benefits – an immediate effect on the one hand and long-lasting firmness on the other. The skin around the eyes is sensitive and susceptible to severe stress, lack of sleep and premature signs of ageing. No wonder, the eye works hard all its life. It has 22 muscles and blinks over 10,000 times a day, with 14 movements every 10 seconds. So much for the facts. The consequences of these repetitive movements are expression lines. The already thin skin becomes even drier. Drooping eyelids and bags under the eyes form. Lifting and firming the eye area The new Eye Lift Concentrate from Noble Panacea has been developed to reduce the appearance of expression lines. At the same time, it prevents existing wrinkles from deepening by reducing muscle contractions. As a result, the skin will receive firming, look smoother and more youthful in the long term. To achieve this, the active ingredients are released in a controlled micro-dosage thanks to the special OSMV technology (Organic Super Molecular Vessel Technology). It was developed especially for Noble Panacea by Sir Fraser Stoddart, Nobel Prize winner for chemistry. Short-term effects are provided by substances such as octapeptides to reduce muscle contractions and expression lines. A bio-matrix complex provides an immediate lifting and firming effect. Persian silk tree extract delivers long-term results, protecting, strengthening and improving the properties of the dermis. This means that sagging upper eyelid skin can be lifted, crow’s feet are reduced, dark circles and puffiness diminished. It also contains retinal, an effective form of vitamin A that is better tolerated by sensitive areas. It helps to reduce fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating collagen production. 12 individually packed active doses I tested the product for 12 weeks. One pack lasts that long with two applications a week. As this is not a normal eye cream the concentrate does not need to be applied daily. This period of time is also necessary until the tightening effect and more firmness in the eye area appear.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: 16 Shades “The Concealer” Pen from Victoria Beckham Beauty & Augustinus Bader 

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Concealers are essential for any make-up routine. Even if you don’t wear much make-up (apart from lipstick!) like me. Because these tools are truly multi-talented when it comes to concealing dark shadows, puffiness and discoloration under the eyes. Even better if they also have skincare properties – like the new “Concealer Pen” developed by Augustinus Bader for Victoria Beckham Beauty. It contains the unique patented TFC8® complex, on which Professor Bader’s entire beauty line is based. He developed this complex, which is based on over 30 years of research in applied stem cell biology and regenerative medicine, in his Leipzig laboratory. One concealer, double the effect The concealer covers the complexion like a second skin and simultaneously nourishes it with highly active nutrients from the Trigger Factor Complex TFCTM technology. It is a carefully formulated blend of high-quality vitamins, lipids and highly effective, protected peptides. This transports essential nutrients into the skin for cell renewal, combating signs of ageing and damage for healthier looking skin. “Imagine a concealer you need less the more you use it. The formula easily and quickly camouflages dark circles and spots, but the ingredient technology in The Concealer Pen is just as powerful as skin care. It acts as a supernutrient for your skin alongside smooth, brightening coverage that’s not too oily or too drying.” Victoria Beckham The TFC8® complex in the concealer pen is complemented by Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, a peptide known to reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Especially those caused by facial expressions, such as around the eyes and mouth. Polyglutamic Acid helps to improve the skin’s moisture magnet, hydration and elasticity, thus reducing the appearance of wrinkles. Another moisturizer is Squalane, a highly biocompatible oil that has the ability to penetrate the skin to provide hydration and antioxidant protection. 16 different shades From the huge color palette of sixteen intelligently coordinated shades, there is the right one for every skin tone. I use a medium shade called LM1 (Light medium with neutral warm undertones). The pen has a light to medium camouflage that blends out to a very natural base and makes any imperfections disappear. The slim brush pen is also ideal for touch-ups on the go because it can be applied quickly with one hand, as Victoria Beckham explains. At home, however, when I have more time to invest, I prefer to use a slightly wider concealer brush so that I can spread the texture particularly thinly and evenly, especially under the eyes.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: „Baby Blonde Duo“ from Christophe Robin

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The “Baby Blonde Duo” consists of the “Shade Variation Shampoo” and the “Shade Variation Conditioner”. The two have declared war on the yellow tinge of blonde or gray hair. Just the thing for me. Now baby blonde. Four years ago, I changed my hair color from natural black to “salt & pepper”, i.e. silver streaked, after the first signs of white temples appeared. At the time, it didn’t even occur to me that I would no longer be able to use “normal” shampoos, which I still had heaps of in my cupboard, but would need products that prevent or neutralize the unsightly discolouration of the colour-treated strands. Violet combats yellow This anti-yellow or anti-brass hair care – whether shampoo, conditioner or mask – usually has a purple color. This is because, according to the principles of colorimetry, violet is the complementary color to yellow. Crushed violet pigments are responsible for the purple color, neutralizing the unloved brassy and yellow tones of bleached hair and preserving a fresh, cool shade. A must not only for new blondies, but also for silver hair, because without the right care, even the coolest silver will take on a yellowish shimmer after a while. This is because color-treated hair like mine becomes more porous due to oxidation during the bleaching process. As the hair fibre is chemically altered during bleaching, its natural protective barrier is sensitized, the hair is weakened and is more susceptible to sunlight, chlorine or frequent contact with water. In contrast, the bluish nanopigments that are applied to the surface of the hair fiber during shampooing to correct unwanted color tones have a nourishing effect. The hair cuticle is not attacked, as is the case with bleaching. Advantage for the „Baby Blonde Duo“ I use a purple conditioner every time I wash my hair because the cool purple pigment doesn’t damage the hair. The only disadvantage with many brands: If you leave it in your hair too long, the purple pigments overdo it a bit and give the lightened strands a purple (old lady) shimmer. My grandmother loved it. Not me! That’s why I never leave a purple mask or conditioner on for too long. The “Baby Blonde Duo” has an absolute advantage here. Both product textures are not as dark purple as with many competitors, where I have to wear gloves if I don’t want discolored palms (which can be easily washed off with soap).… weiterlesen