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Author: Margit Rüdiger

CultureAndCream Author from Munich To travel during my profession as a beauty journalist was never enough for my. Also my six month on a world trip didn't do it. It always attracts me to other cities, foreign countries, on roadtrips and places I don't know yet. But I am not only interested in "culture" and "cream", I am also fascinated by people who have stories to tell .  Such unique experiences I want to share with you.

Filler Injections: Beauty as a Craft

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They have long been the gold standard in aesthetic dermatology. Even if the hyaluronic acid fillers that are injected today are adapted in their molecular structure to the various facial areas or tissue structures, an experienced doctor is still needed. He oder she is the best guarantee for the desired result. Real craftsmanship and experience is required, especially in order to optimize the areas around the eyes, cheeks and forehead. Our interview partner Dr. Marion Runnebaum is an expert when it comes to filler types and special injection techniques. The German M.D. is not only a practicing dermatologist in Jena, but also coaches doctors. Hyaluronic acid fillers and botulinum toxin for facial rejuvenation and wrinkle treatment are the gold standard in aesthetic dermatology. What leads to a good result in your opinion? The practitioner’s know-how, the art of thinking aesthetically and of course the materials. Especially in the filler world, it is crucial to use a safe material. Here, hyaluron is still first line therapy for me. And only here is a reliable antidote available , i.e. an antidote like the hylase, to dissolve hyaluron in the tissue if necessary. In the case of botulinum, the doctor alone decides which skills to use to “soften” a face. This is my favorite word for botulinum, “blur” and not freeze. What has changed in the field of beauty optimisation in the past years? We can fall back on over 20 years of experience with botulinum and hyaluron. That was unthinkable in my early days but has now become standard. Combined treatment and, above all, being able to holistically perfect a face is the trend today. By holistic I mean being able to deal with skin, fatty tissue, muscles and also the changes in the bones. What are the differences of the various hyaluronic fillers? Hyaluronic acid (HA) is an amino acid, i.e. the basic building block of all proteins. The name is misleading because it is not an acid. Uncrosslinked hyaluronic acid is very fluid and not stable in use, i.e. the durability in the tissue is then only 24 hours. That certainly improves the moisture of the skin, but nothing more. HAs are made durable by networking them. Depending on the crosslinking and the technology, both of which are well-kept secrets with the respective companies, the different HAs for the respective areas in the face are produced synthetically.Unfortunately, the market in Germany is extremely overloaded.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: „Face Mini Hair Remover“ from Braun

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Little helpers often have a big impact like a face mini hair remover. Braun is a real specialst when it comes to razors. My husband doens’t use any other brand. I immediately liked the handy size of the Face Mini Hair Remover. At just 10 centimeters, the pen shape fits into any handbag or a cosmetic bag. And if it then reliably removes the superfluous hairs on the face, which are all too clearly visible in dark-haired women on the upper lip, chin, cheeks or on the forehead above or between the brows – what more do I want? Yes, I would like to know something more precisely. Is it good for my skin too? “Women have thinner and drier skin on their faces than men, so hair removal should be particularly gentle on the skin,” confirms the Hamburg dermatologist Dr. Melanie Hartmann. She goes on to say: “To remove light fuzz, I recommend women use a pocket razor, which gently removes the hair on the surface of the skin.” How the Face Mini Hair Remover works Turn the lower part of the tool briefly. Then its rotating cutting system starts moving with a low whirring sound. Also the integrated Smartlight, which brings even the smallest hair into the light, is already lit. Ready to go. The razor with its thin protective film glides gently over my skin, regardless of whether I move the device linearly or in circles. It’s more like a caress. The hairs are cut off directly on the surface of the skin without straining the sensitive skin of the face. Thanks to the round design, even difficult areas can be easily reached with the small tool. Afterwards, no redness, no burning of the face. The fine downy hairs, especially in the cheek area and around the contours, can be removed evenly. Women who wear makeup will appreciate that especially. In addition, Dr. Hartmann says: “The foundation can settle between the fine facial hair. If you remove this, you prepare your skin perfectly. A small but effective trick for a more even and long-lasting make-up. “ To clean the battery-operated device, simply twist off the “shear” head and clean the parts with the enclosed brush. „Face Mini Hair Remover“ from Braun, ca. 30 Euro… weiterlesen
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Surprised by My Personalized Nutrition Test

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I’ve been asking myself for a long time: Should I rather eat a roll or a slice of wholemeal bread in the morning? Why do I always feel so full after rice in the evening? I wanted to know more about what makes my body tick. That’s why I did a personalized nutrition test. “Million Friends” – that’s the name of the nutrition test that I completed for 14 days. Our “million friends” are the intestinal bacteria. “The relationship between our body and the very individual mixture of intestinal bacteria plays an important role in how diet influences us,” says Professor Eran Elinav from the Weizmann Institute of Science in Rehovot, who, together with Eran Segal, led an Israeli research team on the subject of how synthetic sugar substitutes change the intestinal flora, increasing the risk of diabetes. Why is stable blood sugar so important? It is well known that food causes our blood sugar to rise to a greater or lesser extent, which differs from person to person. As well as known is that an imbalance between the populations of intestinal bacteria increases the risk of metabolic diseases such as obesity and type 2 diabetes. Sharp fluctuations in blood sugar levels not only prevent weight loss, but also increase the health risk. If the blood sugar level rises sharply after a meal, the excess sugar is stored as fat. If the curve then drops sharply again, hunger attacks are the result and an excessive intake of calories. Such strong fluctuations can have different effects, for example in fatigue and tiredness or a lack of concentration. You are unbalanced and put on weight quickly. A stable blood sugar is therefore desirable. It keeps you full, is healthier, makes you more balanced and more productive. Losing weight is also easier. It is therefore important to consume meals that keep blood sugar stable. And that’s something very personal. The fact that not everyone reacts in the same way to every food is due to the individual intestinal bacteria. So the microbiome is something like a fingerprint. Therefore it makes sense to know how the body metabolizes different foods. So I ordered my nutrition test online from “Million Friends” . It contains everything you need: instructions, a scale for the food, a blood sugar chip plus measuring device, a set for the stool sample, a sachet of pure grape sugar for a sugar test meal and a measuring tape.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: „Brow Lift Home Kit“ of Niclay

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Do-it-yourself fans can look forward to it. With the brow lift kit, you can make yourself independent of appointments and opening times in the cosmetic studio or the brow stylist. You have your own “brow bar” at home. The kit in the silver disco ball bag color contains everything you need to perfectly shape your brows over a longer period of time. The complete range with five lifting sachets, primer, glue, keratin booster and the necessary applicators is sufficient for several applications. It is completely easy due to the numbering of the sachets and understandable instructions for use. I have to say, I imagined it to be more difficult. The only thing you need in addition at home is a mirror that is big enough so that you can see yourself clearly. The pocket mirror doesn’t work here. And you should read the instructions beforehand. Accordingly, I have arranged the individual utensils from the brow lift kit in the right order so that I don’t have to look for them in action. Fix the brows in shape The preparation: First of all, the primer is applied to the properly cleaned eyebrows with an oil-free (!) cleanser and combed in with one of the brushes. Next, fix the hairs upwards with the water-soluble and skin-friendly adhesive. It ensures that the hair stays in exactly this position. It actually works best if you use the supplied applicator with the Y-shape to help. Because the glue dries quickly and you can then no longer “move” the hairs, you should act quickly and work one brow after the other. The actual lifting: You take the two-part sachets of the brow lift set to hand. They contain a lotion for lifting and one for fixing the eyebrows. The lotions have the effect that to open the hair structure first and then sealed again. Leave the lifting lotion on the brows for 10-17 minutes depending on the thickness of the single hair and then removed it with a damp cotton pad. The fixing lotion is responsible for the lifting effect to last longer. It also stays on the brows for another 10-17 minutes – but without fixing the tips. Then wipe again with a dampened cotton ball. Perfect styling for four weeks At the very end, the keratin booster is applied to care for the brows. With an effort of – generously calculated – 40 minutes, my brows are perfectly styled again.… weiterlesen
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Travel alone: The Lightness of Being

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Travel alone can be a lot of fun. Not that I don’t like traveling with my husband, family or friends. But travelling alone has a special quality. But you have to recognize that first and then practice. When I was a teenager, traveling with a bunch of peers seemed like a lot of fun, but it was not an accessible option for me. My father wouldn’t have allowed it anyway. I also had girlfriends, but no real clique, because father strictly forbade any activities with people of the same age – and especially with boys. I could have been spoiled there, maybe learned something that I did not yet know. When I finally liberated myself – forcibly and of course without my father’s blessing – the time of sworn cliques was a thing of the past. Everybody traveled with his beloved one. I also. To travel alone would have been an inexcusable flaw in the eyes of the others and would have looked like you had no one to travel with. And in truth, not one of us would have dared to travel alone in these times. My first solo trip It was many years later, my first marriage was already broken up, that I found out how relaxing and conflict-free it is to travel alone – with only yourself. You don’t need to be considerate of anyone, you don’t need to compromise, you can do whatever you want. I still remember my first solo trip very well. I went to Verona. I wanted to have dinner in a highly rated restaurant at the end of the famous Piazza delle Erbe. “Are you alone, Signora,” asked the waiter in astonishment and looked over my shoulder to see if someone else would follow me after all. When I nodded, I still got one of the elegant white set tables – not the most beautiful, but at least … The waiter took care of me all evening, probably feeling sorry for the “bella signora” that travelles alone. Whenever his time allowed, he stood by my table and entertained me. That was soon a bit too much for me and I would have loved to have occupied myself with my food, which, by the way, was excellent. And it was also too late to pretend I wouldn’t speak Italian. On the other hand, I didn’t dare just send him away. He meant it nicely.… weiterlesen
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Tested for you: Primer „Le Privilège Base Traitante“ from Rivoli

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I usually don’t use foundation because I don’t like the feeling that something is “on” my skin, and that’s why I don’t need a primer. At least that’s what I thought so far. But the “Base Traitante” is a 2-in-1 product – tinting and skin care in one. A polyphenolic molecule activates the natural defense mechanisms to protect against UV radiation. As a hyaluronic acid precursor, it promotes the production of hyaluronic acid molecules that are naturally present in our skin. So I start my test. Is the primer too light or too dark? After cleaning and day care, I apply the primer for the first time in the morning. The tinted texture looks quite dark in the elegant and heavy cylindrical glass bottle. Too dark for me? But when I pump it on my fingertips, my impression changes into the opposite. The primer might be too light for my more Mediterranean skin. Nevertheless, I distribute it evenly on the face. The light, creamy fluid is easy to spread. The amount withdrawn is sufficient. The Rivoli product is quite economical. Already an advantage considering the price. Also applied on my face and well distributed, the result appears to me quite light, as if the layer would remain on top of the skin without merging with it. I’m waiting. But after a short time the primer is absorbed and has adapted perfectly to my natural skin tone. Amazing! There is also no such thing as a heavy make-up feeling. To check the optical result better, I stand by the window with the morning sun with a magnifying mirror in my hand to see what the tint looks like in daylight. Natural and radiant For me this is a particularly important aspect, because that is the face that I want to present to my environment. The skin should look bare and shine. Even if I don’t use a foundation, I still want to flaunt a refined and even complexion. And that is exactly what the primer does. It smooths and immediately gives the complexion a fresher radiance. The skin looks hydrated and comfortably plumped. Bien fait! With regular use, “Le Privilège Base Traitante” should even remove redness and minimize pores. „Le Privilège Base Traitante“ from Rivoli, 50 ml, 205 Euro… weiterlesen

Ceramic Art: Coco Loves Clay

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The manufactory of the Munich ceramic artist Coco Pelger is known for vases, bowls and design objects made of clay and porcelain. She designs and builds the ornate one-offs all entirely by hand. What has been your most difficult object so far? “Probably my ‚Eternal Blossom Vases‘. The filigree porcelain flowers are moderated by hand and fixed on the vase at the right time. “It works well, but not always – especially when I pick up the pace,” says ceramic artist Coco Pelger. “During the further steps, it can happen again and again that they fall off during drying or break off during glazing.“ Pottery was actually just supposed to be a hobby, it all started with Christmas gifts for her friends that she had posted on Instagram: “The feedback was unexpectedly great, and I’ve been working 24/7 since then.” The hobby quickly turned into a business: Since the last week three of her objects are shown in the renowned Munich furniture store “Neue Werkstätten”, which Coco created especially for this: “I can’t believe it, it’s like an accolade!” The magazines Bunte, Cosmopolitan and Madame will soon report about their vases and plates. And she is currently discussing a cooperation with a Munich accessories designer. Coco Pelger has worked for lifestyle magazines (including InStyle, Glamor, Condé Nast Traveler) in London and Munich for many years. Creativity has always been her topic – as photo director developing the imagery of the magazines, implementing photo productions, most recently conceiving stories as deputy editor-in-chief. In 2020 she left the media business – with one crying and one laughing eye. “I finally had time to get involved with what I really enjoy. As a creative person, I wanted to create something with my hands, ”says Coco. Search for meaning, Corona deceleration, the sudden death of her father, a lot of time in nature, the decision not to return to the old job and the desire to finally dare something completely new – there were many factors that made her back to her old passion pottery have run. “I’ve always had clay in the house, but through my full-time job in the media, as a mother of two sons, household, husband … The clay always had dried out when I wanted to take a seat and work with it,” says the artist. „I find inspiration for my objects above all in nature, whose shapes, colors and structures can be found in many of my works, reinterpreted“ In the meantime, not a single day goes by without Coco making pottery – sometimes to the chagrin of her two sons.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: „Dermaroller“ + „Red“ of Doctor Mi!

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Again and again I read and heard about the successes that can be achieved with a dermaroller, so-called microneedling, on the face: smoothing wrinkles, lines and scars, eliminating pigmentation disorders or minimizing pores. You can not only have such a treatment carried out by a beautician or a dermatologist, but you can also do it yourself at home. The only thing you need is a dermaroller. I got it from the skin care line of “Doctor Mi!”. The device has micro-fine stainless steel needles in diameter of 2.5 millimetres with antibacterial coating and ergonomic handle. I had the device in my drawer at home for weeks, but I have to admit that I was afraid of the first time using it. I picked it up every now and then and rolled it over the back of my hand as a test. Pretty painful, so I put the dermaroller back again. Also, I wasn’t sure how exactly to use it. How hard should I press anyway? With what movements? A thousand questions went through my head. Test needling at the dermatologist So I decided to get a professional to show me how to use the dermaroller properly. “It is important to clean the skin thoroughly beforehand,” said Dr. Miriam Rehbein and used the salicylic acid-containing “Tone.S”, “otherwise it can lead to unsightly inflammation.” Then she picked up a new dermaroller and moved it in a star shape on my face. First the cheeks, then the forehead and finally the chin – she saved me the sensitive lip area the first time. At the same speed and pressure, she rolled 4-5 times vertically, horizontally and diagonally across each zone. She commented positively that here and there small bleeding occurred on my face. “Due to the micro fine injuries to the skin, care products can penetrate particularly deeply into the skin layers and support its regeneration process.” Spoke it and distributed the “Red” face cream on the treated areas. This has a high content of retinol for additional skin smoothing, pore refinement and collagen regeneration. Then the dermatologist put the dermaroller on again, “to needle the product really nicely into the skin.” I found the second run less painful than the first. But afterwards my face was flushed like after a sunburn. I soon went to bed and, amazingly, the next morning my complexion was rosy and smoother. Now I needle at home I have now been using my dermaroller consistently once a week for the past three months.… weiterlesen
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Tested for you: Eyebrow Serum „ukbrow“ from UK Skinlabs

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Thin and plucked up, that was once the fashion for the eyebrows. I still suffer from this sin of youth today. The trend then eventually went to a more natural look with thicker brow arches. But the “holes” in mine simply could no longer be closed. I then got my brows tattooed, which didn’t really hide the bald spots. When the eyelash and brow serums came on the market, I also tried all of them. I have tested myself up and down through various brands over the years. Some were based on the tissue hormone prostaglandin, others were purely plant-based. None of them worked for my problem, except that the remaining hairs grew so long that I had to cut them. The English eyebrow wonder Then came the summer vacation. In August of this year I read a colleague’s article online in Vogue. Tish Weinstock fared similarly to me, only she had naturally sparse brows. She, too, had used a lot of products without success, then at some point gave in to the fate of her almost non-existent brows, until a friend recommended the manufacturer of “ukbrow” to her. She decided to give this product, including the uklash eyelash serum, a chance. Weinstock wrote in her story that from week three onwards, her eyebrows began to gradually change. They became darker and thicker, the hairs longer. Even friends noticed and approached them about it. Herbal active ingredients Her report was so convincing and didn’t sound like paid advertising at all that I decided to order the product online from the “Feelunique” website. And it wasn’t expensive at £ 38 either, and shipping to Germany was free. Just a week later, the gold-colored pencil arrived at my home in the form of a mascara. The instructions for use were even available in German. The active ingredients in the serum are vitamins, peptides and plant extracts such as pumpkin seed, ginseng, grape seed and Japanese swamp star. “Ukbrow” is vegan and cruelty-free. I should apply the eyebrow serum once a day for 12 weeks for fuller and more defined brows. Obviously the right product for me, because the Swedish-Iranian company founder of the brand Nima Pourian says: “We have already helped so many women who had their brows plucked in the 90s or who lost them for medical reasons after chemotherapy, for example.” Yep, it grows! I am excited. I start my test that same evening.… weiterlesen
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Tested for you: “Lifting Gua Sha” from Rose Quartz by Payot

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I’ve always been skeptical about massage tools like the Gua Sha and others. And I also have to admit, being too impatient. I tried most of them a few times and then put them down again and left their fate to be forgotten in some drawer. But recently I experienced a facial in Dr. Miriam Rehbein’s office in Munich, as you may have read on my blog, with a fabulous massage of the cheek-chin contour. When I then put my “Gua Sha” stone at home exactly where the beautician’s fingers had massaged, it really surprised me: It felt almost as good. Three sides, three options Since then, I’ve been doing it every day, stroking the “V” side of the Gua Sha up along the jawline from chin to ear. Like two fingers, the “V” encompasses the jawbone and its tissue. And because the cool rose quartz feels so comfortable on the skin, I go up higher in the face and use it to work on the cheek area. For the cheeks, I use the long side of the stone and move diagonally upwards along the edge of the face. Finally, it is the turn of the eye area by stroking the narrow corner of the tool from the outer corner of the eye to the hairline. After regular use, my face, especially the jaw line, looks tighter and more relaxed overall. All 26 muscles appear relaxed and the lymph flow stimulated. I prefer to use the 15 minutes in front of the TV during the daily evening news – just the right amount of time. I think this time I will on the ball, in this case the rose quartz stone. Where does the Gua Sha actually come from? Massages with precious stones such as rose quartz and jade have a long tradition in Chinese medicine (TCM). Gua Sha (pronounced “Quascha”) is made up of the two words “Gua” and “Sha”, which mean something like “scrape” and “reddening of the skin”. The stone is gently “scraped” over the face so that the skin turns red slightly due to the increased blood flow. In Chinese medicine it is assumed that after a successful facial massage, the skin is freed of toxins and blockages. Rose quartz or jade – what’s the difference? In TCM, different effects are ascribed to the two healing stones. Jade is said to have an anti-inflammatory, cleansing and decongestant effect.… weiterlesen