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Author: Margit Rüdiger

CultureAndCream Author from Munich To travel during my profession as a beauty journalist was never enough for my. Also my six month on a world trip didn't do it. It always attracts me to other cities, foreign countries, on roadtrips and places I don't know yet. But I am not only interested in "culture" and "cream", I am also fascinated by people who have stories to tell .  Such unique experiences I want to share with you.

Tested for you: Bronzing Collection „Sunshine Memories“ from Artdeco

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I love Italy. That’s why I was immediately drawn to the bronzing collection – because of its packaging in cobalt blue and brown. It reminds me of the wonderful ceramic and terracotta objects from the Italian town of Ostuni in Puglia. Ostuni is also known as “Città Bianca” – the white city in Italy. All the houses except the churches are whitewashed. In the narrow streets, spanned by many arches, with their often confusing interlocking houses with many outside staircases, one feels a touch of the Orient. Bronzing all year The bronzing collection includes everything you need for a radiant summer complexion. I was particularly enthusiastic about the design bronzer “Ceramic Work of Art”, which is composed of three different colors. Therefore, it is ideal to use at any time of year and for every complexion individually. The shades can be used individually or together. The best way, of course, is with a thick brush. The rather subtle pearl pigments contained in the powder reflect the light, giving the skin a natural glow. What often bothers me about bronzing powders is the darkening during the day. Here, the color remains as you applied it in the morning. Velvety and long-lasting. Vitamin E has an additional nourishing effect and prevents an unpleasant feeling of dryness. Shimmer made to measure If you just want a touch of freshness on the cheeks, use the vegan “Bronzing Blush”, also three colors with a slight shimmer. And then there is the Glow Bronzer, bronzing powder and highlighter in one. The high content of mineral mica pigments provides a pleasant glow. All powders are free of mineral oil, parabens and perfume. For the complete look in the make-up bag, there is also a vegan volume mascara in a limited design with a ceramic look. Bronzing-Kollektion „Sunshine Memories“ from Artdeco, from 23 Euro… weiterlesen

Berlin-Bangkok: German Traces in Bangkok, Thai Traces in Berlin

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A recently published book by the German author Martin Schacht with photos by the two photographers Ralf Tooten and Wolfgang Bellwinkel testifies to how closely the two cities are connected. The idea for this exciting project came from Maren Niemeyer, Director of the Goethe-Institut Thailand, who has lived in Bangkok for six years. The Goethe-Institut Thailand, the German-Thai Chamber of Commerce and the Thai-German Society celebrate their 60th anniversary, the Thai Embassy in Berlin and the German Embassy in Bangkok look back on 160 years of diplomatic relations between Thailand and Germany. It’s a fascinating story that connects the two cities, whose names begin with a B. All started in the KaDeWe – Department Store of the West. The opening of KaDeWe took place on March 27, 1907, but the hoped-for boost from the visit of a high member of the German imperial family was not forthcoming. On the other hand, a two-day visit by the Siamese King Rama V and his entourage to KaDeWe in August 1907 made the desired impression on the nobility and the bourgeoisie. The king’s shopping trip dominated the headlines and gave KaDeWe the higher consecration that was still missing to make it the first house on the square. The king dined in the Fürstenzimmer and spent 250,000 marks during his visit. Rama V subsequently awarded Adolf Jandorf, the owner of the new luxury department store at the time, the Order of the White Elephant. The Siamese king, an ally The Thai monarch, who had already visited Germany and Europe for the first time in 1887, was considered a friend of Kaiser Wilhelm II and Thailand, then still Siam, an important economic partner in Asia, which was otherwise dominated by the colonial powers of England and France. The Siamese king was seen as an ally who both supported the German economy and accommodated the German need for influence in the world. In fact, German companies in Thailand were involved in the development of the infrastructure as well as the postal system and the telegraph network. King Rama V (Chulalongkorn) was so popular with the German population that the Berlin operetta king Paul Lincke, who knew better than anyone how to package the mood of the Wilhelmine bourgeoisie in marching music, dedicated a piece of music to him: The Siamese Guard Parade is still popular today at New Year’s concerts of brass bands. The KaDeWe: an eventful history Even when it opened, the department store exceeded all expectations and offered a wide range of products that were rare and often unknown to German customers.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Sun Care from medipharma cosmetics

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What does sun care have to do with corals? Plenty. Although Italian marine biologists commissioned by the EU Commission found as early as 2008 that some ingredients in sunscreens damage the genetic material of corals and fish, not all manufacturers pay attention to this. According to a study by the University of Bologna, peak levels are now being reached in the Adriatic Sea. Mainly responsible are the UV filters oxybenzone, octinoxate and octocrylene contained in numerous European UV protection products. Sun care: 4000 to 6000 tons end up in the sea Every year, 4000 to 6000 tons of sunscreen end up in the oceans along popular snorkeling and bathing coasts. What exactly do they do there? They interfere with the metabolism of coral polyps and can lead to the death of the reefs. In addition, the filter chemicals are difficult to break down and accumulate in numerous marine plants and animals. Ultimately, they end up in our food chain. Some UV filters are also suspected of being hormonally active in the human body. Strictly forbidden In the meantime, several vacation paradises have issued strict bans to protect the oceans, which primarily affect the UV filters oxybenzone and octinoxate, which are particularly harmful to corals. In Mexico, the Pacific island state of Palau and the state of Hawaii, such sunscreen products may no longer be used. Those who violate the law can expect heavy fines. But even if you are going to other areas on vacation, you should read the contents list of your sun care products carefully beforehand, and make sure that they do not contain the substances oxybenzone, octinoxate and octocrylene. Exemplary sunscreen The Hyaluron Sun Care from medipharma cosmetics does not contain any of these environmentally hazardous substances. The UVA and UVB filter system is formulated so that it is also suitable for sensitive skin and is not hormonally active. What I find particularly pleasant about the products for face, body and lips is that they are quickly absorbed and hydrate the skin. Due to the formula, which is based on pharmaceutical hyaluronic acid, the skin does not dry out in the sun and is protected from premature aging. The products are also free of parabens nor mineral oils. Hyaluron sun care from medipharma cosmetics, from 11 Euro… weiterlesen

Skin Oils Cause More Harm than Benefit

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Oils for skin and hair care have long been in vogue. Almost every cosmetic brand has one in its range. Body oils are particularly popular in winter, because they give the skin a warm, cozy hygge feeling. But not all of them are good for the skin. It is impossible to imagine wellness massages without oils, they support the pampering aspect. However, there are differences. In the field of cosmetic applications, a distinction is made between fatty, so-called base or carrier oils, and essential oils. Good base oils are natural, cold-pressed vegetable oils, for example from olives. They are not only a popular cream base, but can also be used pure. Since their composition is similar to that of natural skin oils, they are considered skin-friendly. The situation is different with essential oils. These are water vapor volatile, only slightly oily extracts from plants. They are primarily used for their aroma. Everyone knows lavender oil. Fatty Petroleum What distinguishes high-quality natural oils? They need neither emulsifiers nor preservatives or any chemical additives. This is guaranteed with native oils in organic quality. With ready-made blends, you should take a closer look at the ingredients. Inexpensive products often contain mineral oil (INCI: Paraffinum Liquidum), a fat derived from petroleum. They are declared as Liquid petrolatum, Paraffin oil, Petrolatum liquid, Petroleum oil, White mineral oil and White oil. Vaseline (petrolatum) belongs to the same family, only its texture is not liquid but waxy. Petroleum is a popular raw material for inexpensive mass production – cheap, easy to process. Unlike vegetable oils, petroleum products also have a long shelf life and consistent quality. Vegetable oils are sensitive. They react with light, air and heat, can quickly become rancid, and the quality can vary. The mineral oil used for cosmetics comes from petroleum, which in turn develops from the remains of plankton and algae and is exposed to high pressure and temperatures in the earth’s crust. When it is extracted from the earth for use in skin care products or medicines, it is purified to a particularly high degree so that not much of the original material remains. However, vegetable oils are also purified before they are applied to the skin. If you ask your body, petroleum is a foreign substance for it, which forms a kind of film on the skin and immediately seals the surface. In this way, water loss is stopped and the skin feels nice and soft for the time being.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Beauty Supplement „Mighty Night“ von Hum Nutrition

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I’ve loved the California beauty food pioneer’s products since I discovered them at a spa in Los Angeles many years ago. I was fascinated by the bright colors of the container banderoles, which were lined up on the shelf like a Pantone color chart. There was nothing like this in Germany for nutritional supplements. And then only the funny names of the individual products like “Flatter me”, “Skinny Bird” or “OMG”. I was hooked and immediately bought some. Beautyfood for a„Mighty Night“ I was all the more excited when Hum Nutrition also came on the market in Germany. The new product “Mighty Night”, which is dedicated to the topic “sleep better and wake up more beautiful”, is made for me. Because I sleep badly and often wake up in the morning also visually “as if battered”. It makes no difference to me whether the moon is full or new, whether wolves are howling or there is deathly silence around me, whether the curtains are open or closed. I can not fall asleep. What I have not already tried everything to remedy this. Apart from the childhood ritual of “counting sheep”, hot milk with honey, valerian and similar herbs were on my bedtime list. But I hate milk. The fact that I drank it anyway shows how great the pressure of suffering was. Nevertheless – nothing helped – neither could I get to sleep promptly nor sleep through the night. I also followed the optimal sleep hygiene recommended by sleep researchers: Not going to bed too late, always at the same time, not watching TV or playing computer games or reading e-mails beforehand, and so on. The fact is that my night’s rest is over by four o’clock in the morning at the latest. What comes after that are only waking dreams. Recovery for body and skin With a combination of valerian root, hops and passionflower, “Mighty Night” is said to promote restful sleep, while ubiquinol (CoQ10), ceramides and ferulic acid take care of the skin. “While sleeping, the skin is repaired, new cells are formed and strengthened against moisture loss and free radical damage. Valerian root and hops are herbs I recommend for better sleep quality and are critical for overnight recovery,” says America’s Sleep Doctor Dr. Michael J. Breus. So I take two of the dark blue, vegan capsules in the evening before going to bed. In fact, I fall asleep faster on the first evening, but I still can’t sleep through the night.… weiterlesen

“Who am I when I am nothing any more”

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This book title* by my former chief editor Patricia Riekel at the illustrated magazine “Bunte” got me thinking. Many people who have spent most of their professional life in an exposed position feel the same way as she does. It was no different for me. As the beauty director of a well-known magazine, you are courted by PR people and the industry, invited to the most beautiful places in the world, looked after and pampered. For my birthday, I got so many flowers every year that my office looked like a funeral parlor. And then you lose your job – all of a sudden and not because you’ve slacked off in your performance or stolen golden spoons. No, simply because a new executive moves in, or, as in Patricia’s case, the age limit is reached and you are “too old” for the job in the eyes of the publisher. Suddenly outlawed It’s not even the case that, during all those years of being spoiled, you weren’t aware of who they were actually interested in. In such a position, you know very well that it is not you as a person who is meant, but only the magazine for which you stand. And yet it is a shock when you suddenly find yourself “out on the street” and no longer exist for those who had previously courted you. You feel somehow naked without your position and discarded, no longer part of a long-trusted circle. I, too, had to learn to restructure my life, to organize my everyday life in a completely different way. I was no longer controlled by others, but was responsible for whether my days went well or badly. The good thing about it: Suddenly I had more time to deal with myself. Finally sorting out mentally and in real terms what was important to me or what I could do without. As stupid as it sounds, I got to know myself better. I fulfilled my heart’s desire and got a dog, which had been impossible before “as a frequent flyer”. For years, I spent more time at airports than shopping at my local supermarket. heimischen Supermarkt. Structure and rituals I quickly realized that structure was good for me, or rituals, or whatever you want to call it. Getting up in the morning and styling myself as if I had to go to the magazine’s office was one of those rituals, even though all I had to do was sit down at my desk at home.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Concealer „Soft Matte Complete“ from Nars

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Concealers are indispensable for me for an even complexion, because I do not use any foundation. Maybe that’s why I’m particularly picky about color and texture. The color must not only fit under the eyes to cover shadows, but also compensate for redness on the cheeks and – if necessary – cover a small pimple. The texture must not be too creamy, because otherwise it will “run” much too quickly. If it is too dry, it is not only difficult to blend, but also unnecessarily emphasizes small lines and wrinkles. Concealer in a jar The new, oil-free “Soft Matte Complete” concealer fulfills both conditions. It comes in a small pot and not in a container with applicator like his colleagues from the “Nars” collection. Rightly so, because I find that here one can better dose the amount that’s needed. At the applicator remains despite wiping off usually still much too much hanging. The color “Biscuit” fits perfectly for my skin and all the coverage requirements that I put on him. I personally like to work with a brush when applying concealer. When I asked at the brand people about this, I get an answer that surprised me: “François Nars, our Founder and Creative Director recommends applying with your finger, so there is no special brush to go with this concealer.”bt es keinen speziellen Pinsel zu dem Concealer.“ “Customize your coverage. Make it yours.” (François Nars) Yep. So I try it with my finger. In fact, it works better than I thought. First, I warm the product with my fingertips and work it into the skin under my eyes with light pressure movements. In places with enlarged pores or imperfections, I dab it on. The opacity can be perfectly tuned to each little problem. Blur with instant effect The “Soft Matte Complete Concealer” is for me the perfect soft focus with instant effect. I’ll read up on how it works: An “Optimal Diffusion Powder” is responsible for this, which maximizes light diffusion with specially developed, round powder particles. Uneven structures immediately appear softer and smoother, while at the same time pigment spots, redness and blemishes can be covered. The result lasts all day. And nourishing substances such as peptides, hyaluronic acid and a cocktail of the skin vitamins A, C and E are also included, so the concealer does not cause any feeling of dryness on the treated areas. „Soft Matte Complete Concealer“ from Nars, 0,21 Oz, 30 US$… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Curcumin Water „Curcumin 400“ from Fytality

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Curcumin? We all know curcuma – also called turmeric – in our cuisine. Especially in Indian curry mixtures, the yellow spice is an important ingredient. It has long been known that turmeric is not only delicious, but also has some health-promoting properties. It has been used as a remedy in traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) and in Ayurveda teachings for around 5,000 years. The main focus here is on the curcumin contained in the plant. As early as 1815, two scientists, Pierre-Joseph Pelletier (French) and the German chemist Heinrich August von Vogel, isolated the active ingredient curcumin for the first time. However, it is only in the last 30 years that the effect of curcumin has also been intensively researched in the Western world. There are now almost 4,000 studies proving its positive effects on the human body. These include anti-inflammatory, cartilage-protecting and cholesterol-lowering properties, which is why curcumin is used for the prevention and treatment of various diseases. Curcumin water – the new super food Meanwhile, curcumin is also considered a popular dietary supplement for a healthy lifestyle. Because you never absorb enough of the important substance through turmeric-spiced food alone. One turmeric root contains only three percent curcumin. So you would have to consume about 14 grams of the root to meet your daily needs, because the bioavailability of curcumin is far from ideal. As a powder in food or capsule form, the body can only actually absorb a fraction of this valuable natural active ingredient. The solution to the problem brought an innovative combination of curcumin plus water. Fytality’s curcumin water enables improved absorption, which already takes place via the oral mucosa. It uses high-dose, 95 percent curcumin sourced exclusively from certified organic, sustainable farming in India. The patented formula is so clever that the curcumin lipid, which is actually difficult to dissolve in water, combines with water without the need for other additives such as emulsifiers, piperine (black pepper) or oils. A daily shot of the orange water is all that is needed. My experience with curcumin I have tested “Curcumin 400” over several months. First thing in the morning after getting up, a shot from the orange good mood bottle, which is enriched with at least 400 mg curcumin. By the way, the orange containers not only look stylish in the kitchen, but are also sustainable made from 100% RPET (recycled PET), which can be recycled again.… weiterlesen

Alcohol makes you age faster

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Birthdays, Christmas, the master’s degree – whenever there is a party in our culture, alcohol is part of it. And when people are sitting together in such a cozy atmosphere, they often like to drink a little too much. Who thinks about his skin in such moments? But the fact is that it takes a month for the skin to recover from a single night of drinking. “For the body, alcohol is a toxic substance,” confirms English nutritionist Lorna Driver-Davies. It tries to break it down again as quickly as possible with the help of its main detoxification organ, the liver. During this process, the liver metabolizes alcohol into an even more toxic substance called acetaldehyde. To make this less harmful, nutrients, minerals and antioxidants are called upon.“ Elsewhere in the body, precisely these building substances are then missing, which play an important role when it comes to cell renewal, for example, and slowing down the aging process, preventing pimples and binding moisture. However, because our skin is not a vital organ, our organism first of all prefers to break down alcohol and not to supply the skin. Too much alcohol is quickly reached. It’s hard to believe, but at 26.4 grams of pure alcohol, a glass of champagne or sparkling wine already exceeds the recommended daily amount of 20 grams for women (30 grams for men). And with a glass it is not done mostly. Who goes out intensively, brings it in the week well and gladly on 8 to 10 cocktails, that are in each case at least 33 grams of pure alcohol. This also leaves its mark on the skin. Alcohol weakens our immune system Just like nicotine, regular alcohol consumption causes the skin to age prematurely. It also promotes a number of skin diseases and causes pimples because it stimulates the sebaceous glands. Blackheads inflame more easily because alcohol weakens the immune system. Binge drinking has been shown to hinder the immune system for up to 24 hours. Certain proteins, so-called cytokines, which are involved in the defense against infections, are slowed down. As a result, we become more susceptible to infections. Germs and viruses can penetrate the organism unhindered. For example, acne and fungal infections develop. The supply of nutrients no longer functions smoothly. The lack of vitamins has visible consequences for the skin: Vitamin B deficiency causes it to become cracked and flaky, and too little vitamin C weakens the connective tissue and the tissue becomes flabby.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Eyes „Blurring Powder“ from Pat McGrath Labs

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Fine lines, skin imperfections and color change around the eyes to disguise, I’ve always wanted. That’s exactly what the blurring powder from Pat McGrath does. The Brit is the superstar among international makeup artists for me anyway. She is not only a makeup icon, but also one of the most influential beauty influencers. At the same time, Pat McGrath is an authentic and unagitated person, and the products from her labs – how can you expect otherwise – mega-good and mega-stylish. I know, this reads a bit like an advertising text. But I’ve been a fan from the very beginning, since I had the chance to meet her for an interview many years ago… Silky blurring powder But back to the “eye opener”. This ultra-light finishing powder, so silky and yet without silicone, is specially designed for the eye area. Customized you could say, since the skin in the eye area is different from the rest of the face. The Blurring Powder has a kind of soft-focus effect, under which everything disappears that others should not see. What I particularly like is the light-as-air texture of the correction product, which actually covers the skin like a fine veil. You don’t feel that anything has been covered here, as is the case with some creamy concealers. I for my case use the blurring powder alone, but you can also give him over a concealer. What is important: Dab the fine texture with a brush, do not drag it over the skin. This ensures that the “cheating” remains invisible and can not be identified as such. On some days – for whatever reason – the skin on my upper eyelids is unsightly red. Then I apply the powder there too – and all is well. The eyes look awake and radiant, and the result lasts all day long. Sublime Perfection Blurring Under-Eye Powder from Pat McGrath Labs, four shades, 4 g, 30 US$… weiterlesen