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Author: Margit Rüdiger

CultureAndCream Author from Munich To travel during my profession as a beauty journalist was never enough for my. Also my six month on a world trip didn't do it. It always attracts me to other cities, foreign countries, on roadtrips and places I don't know yet. But I am not only interested in "culture" and "cream", I am also fascinated by people who have stories to tell .  Such unique experiences I want to share with you.

If You Have Acne, Be Careful In The Sun!

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Ever heard of the rebound effect? It is also called boomerang effect. It describes a counter-reaction of what you actually expected. This is exactly what happens when UV rays hit acne. Although there is an initial improvement, the skin’s appearance soon worsens again. Teenagers with acne on their faces are often sent out into the sun by their mothers to dry up the pimples and pustules. In a way, this is true, because UV rays actually have anti-inflammatory and antibacterial effects. They switch off, so to speak, the micro-organisms that are involved in the development of pimples and blackheads. Therefore, the skin condition actually improves – for now. However, the success is only temporary. However, many sufferers are deceived by this and abandon their usual anti-acne care. The disappointment comes with the end of summer when the acne is back and often even worse – it really “blooms”. This is called the rebound effect. This phenomenon is also known in pharmacology, when an abrupt discontinuation of a drug is followed by an exaggerated counter-reaction. “However, with too much UV radiation from the sun, there is a rebound effect, especially in autumn. Therefore, it is important to always apply a very high level of sun protection,” confirms Judith Horzel, pharmacist and senior medical manager at the French Beauty Brand Pierre Fabre. The best success is achieved with a dermatological problem-solving brand. In the case of acne, sun protection products should not only contain an effective UVA-UVB broadband filter, but also substances that eliminate skin impurities and ensure that they do not reappear. Myrtacin and Celastrol, as used by the brand “Ducray”, are such active substances. They have an anti-inflammatory effect and prevent the formation of the biofilm by Propionibacterium acnes, which is partly responsible for acne. What happens when UV light hits acne skin? As already described, the skin’s appearance improves in the short term, as the sun dries out the pimples. But the skin tries to protect itself from the rays and heat of sunlight by thickening and trapping the sebum produced and bacteria in the skin. While this temporarily makes the skin look nicer, it also clogs pores. If you then use an inappropriate sunscreen and even the wrong factor, the thickening of the skin layer is additionally promoted. The sweat factor should not be underestimated either: sweating is basically good because it opens the pores and flushes dirt to the outside.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: „Eye Patches“ von Hydeep

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Microneedling is an extremely popular anti-aging treatment to smooth wrinkles. It involves treating the skin with a small, needle-pointed dermaroller. However, it should be done very carefully on the eye. The “Eye Patches” from Hydeep are different. They are specially designed for the eye area and provide an anti-fatigue effect. The patches are studded with 900 tiny, self-dissolving microneedles and filled with 17 mg of highly effective power ingredients. Through the tiny needles, these substances are delivered directly into the epidermis to deeply nourish the skin. The treatment is supposed to be painless. But needles and painless. Is that even possible? I want to experience it on my own eye area. Eye patches with 900 microneedles First I clean the eye area and pat dry, then I tear open the pink outer packaging. Inside is a transparent cassette with the two eye patches. They measure about 5.4 cm x 2.2 cm each. I open them and carefully remove the white protective stickers without touching or even hurting the microstructure with the “needles”. These are virtually invisible to the naked eye. No wonder, because each of the microneedles measures only about 90 micrometers and is thus as thin as a human hair. I carefully hold the patches between two fingertips and place them with the narrower side facing inward just below the lower lash line. For two minutes, I’m supposed to apply gentle pressure to the patches to activate the needles so they release their active ingredients. It doesn’t hurt, but until the microneedles dissolve, I feel a tingling sensation under the patches. Meanwhile, the six power ingredients such as pure and cross-linked hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed collagen, niacinamide (vitamin B3), caffeine and the anti-wrinkle peptide AHP-8 are released and delivered deep into the skin. Anti-fatigue effect The patches are supposed to work for about four hours. I use them during the day while sitting at the computer. But you can also leave them on overnight. Twice a week is recommended. When I peel off the thin sheets after four hours, I notice that the skin underneath looks smoother and more rested. After several applications, the effect even lasts a few days. By the way, the patches are cruelty free, free of fragrances, parabens and mineral oil. Once used can not use them again, because the microstructures dissolve completely in the skin when used correctly and thus are no longer effective afterwards. “Eye Patches” by Hydeep, package for 4 applications, 59,95 Euro… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Eyeliner „Tattoo Pencil Liner“ from KVD Beauty

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KVD sounds so official, so I wanted to know what was behind the three letters. KVD stands for Kara, Veritas, Decora. These are the Latin expressions for value, truth, beauty. Fits well to the brand. Because all products of the innovative make-up range are not incredibly powerful and ingenious in colors and pigmentation. They are 100 percent vegan, free of animal testing and protect our environment with recyclable packaging. Waterproof eyeliner I first try the new gel eyeliner pen on the back of my hand in “Viridian Green” and “Violet Hematite”, a brilliant brown. The colors are highly pigmented and have a nice matte finish. The two strokes don’t wipe off, I have to rub really hard to get rid of them. So perfect for a long-lasting eyeliner, as I want him. The lead that comes out of the twist pencil glides ultra-smoothly along the lash line. Perfect also to wear it in the waterline. The color is waterproof and does not fade. Applied in the morning, it is still just as color-intensive in the evening when you remove your makeup. If you work quickly, you can also blend the liner well to shades. It is best to smudge it with your finger or a small dense brush. Paris Jackson shows the way If you are very brave and willing to experiment, you can also draw graphic patterns on the eye with the liner. Model, actress, singer and musician Paris Jackson (lead photo) shows how it’s done. She is the face of the new Tattoo Pencil Liner, making her debut in the beauty industry. “As an artist, I was immediately drawn to KVD Beauty because the brand is dedicated to art and self-expression – both of which are an important part of my personal identity,” Jackson says. KVD BEAUTY, by the way, is part of KENDO Brands. A company that creates or acquires beauty brands and turns them into global powerhouses. The portfolio also includes FENTY Beauty by Rihanna, Ole Henrichen Skincare, Marc Jacobs Beauty, Bite Beauty, Lip Lab Stores. “Tattoo Pencil Liner” by KVD Beauty, comes in 10 shades, 22 US$ each… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Make-up capsules „Milky Boost Capsules“ from Clarins

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Little make-up capsules. What a great idea, I thought to myself when I received the transparent jar with 30 small, skin-colored capsules for testing. I liked it right away because such small doses are ideal, especially when traveling. You can put the capsules loosely in the cosmetic bag without any mishap. I also tried this out immediately. It worked! One make-up capsule per application Each capsule contains exactly as much makeup texture as you need for one application on the face. Practical and also quite clever, because in the small capsule the formula remains protected from contamination until it is opened. In addition, the empty capsule is biodegradable. So you don’t need to have a guilty conscience when disposing of it. The jar, made of 40 percent recycled glass, is also environmentally conscious because it can be refilled. There is also a refill bag with 30 capsules. The latest product in the “Milky Boost” series, like the entire line, has been developed according to ecological criteria. The tiny make-up capsules also contain 100 percent vegetable and natural peach kernel oil – a proven beautifier and nutrient for the complexion. In addition, there is organic currant extract. It is said to firm the skin and ensure better distribution of the incident light rays. The third in the trio of plants is cocoa extract – from fair trade, of course – to improve moisture in the tissues. Small capsule goes big But now for the test. I hold the capsule between my thumb and forefinger and turn the cap around on itself with my other hand until it can be detached from the capsule. One squeeze of the capsule “belly” and the skin-colored fluid emerges. I spread it mostly on my cheeks, where I could use more perfection. I also apply a touch to the forehead and chin. The light fluid can be blended “rimless”, connects immediately with the skin and leaves a radiant complexion. No unsightly shine, but a satin finish. By the way, the product comes in four shades. My conclusion: A small product with a big effect. When I look at myself in the mirror with my “Milky” complexion, I can only say: The little ones passed my test! “Milky Boost Capsules” from Clarins, 30 pieces, approx. 22 euros… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Lanserhof Medical Experts’ cookbook „Die heilende Kraft der Ernährung“ (The Healing Power of Nutrition)

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I like to eat, but I don’t like to cook. But I enjoy being cooked all the more. Fortunately, I have two sisters and friends around me who not only cook excellently, but also love to cook. Despite my lack of love of cooking, I make it a point to eat healthy and as plant-based as possible during the time when no one is cooking for me. For this reason alone, the new, large-format, high-quality book by Lanserhof Medical Experts, “The Healing Power of Nutrition,” came just at the right time. It contains a lot of interesting information about healthy nutrition, about micro- and macro-nutrients and how our intestines work – and simple recipes that even I can put on my plate. Cooked from the Lanserhof cookbook I try with first with something very simple from the cookbook – a spread. My choice is pumpkin carrots with avocado and yogurt with linseed oil. These are all foods that I like to eat. Preparing the vegetables is not witchcraft and is quick: clean, peel, cut carrots, peel and seed the Hokkaido pumpkin. Cook for 10 minutes until soft. then just puree the vegetable pieces together with the oatmeal and linseed oil until smooth. Season with rock salt, bitter spice and grated ginger. Done! Tastes delicious! The preparation took me no more than half an hour. The spread will keep in the refrigerator for about two days. The Mediterranean oven vegetables with feta cheese – another recipe from the cookbook -didn’t take much longer. Just right for me, because I also do not like to stand long in the kitchen. The fact that the Lanserhof came just now with a health and nutrition book on the market is no coincidence. After the first location in Lans/Austria, the Bavarian Dependance at the Tegernsee opens in May the Lanserhof Sylt a further location. The health resort in the far north is embedded in a unique landscape in the middle of the dunes of List with the exceptional climate of the North Sea. It is the perfect symbiosis for the holistic Lanserhof concept. On the highest point of the island The newly constructed buildings on the former officers’ quarters site in the northeast of Sylt include the main building with 55 rooms and suites furnished to a high standard. There is also a spacious spa area with state-of-the-art fitness facilities, saunas, steam baths and an indoor and outdoor saltwater pool with counter-current system.… weiterlesen

3 x 3 For More Defined Facial Contours

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Three renowned beauty experts explain three ways to optimize facial features. What you can achieve with hyaluronic acid filler, makeup contouring and face yoga… Accentuated cheekbones, a defined chin line and a youthful V-shaped face is the desire of many women. To regain the “top model” look with defined facial features when it has been “lost” with the aging process, explain a specialist in surgery, a make-up artist and an expert in Face Yoga. The beauty doc says: Fill it up with hyaluronic acid! “For the attractiveness and harmony of the face, the zygomatic arch in the cheek area plays a particularly important role, because it provides contour,” explains Dr. Sina Djalaei, a specialist in surgery. The problem: With increasing age, the body reduces fatty tissue, and in addition, the volume of the face decreases due to gravity. As a result of this so-called sagging effect, nasolabial and marionette wrinkles can appear deeper, and facial features can look sad and tired. Filler treatment can correct missing or lost volume in the cheek area. Dr. Djalaei:“By performing a treatment with hyaluronic acid fillers at specific points on the zygomatic arch, the doctor can bring important ligaments under tension and lift the midface again.” The result: “The cheekbones can be emphasized, and at the same time an uplifting effect can occur. The shape of the face thus usually approaches an upward, youthful and alert V-shape again, and thus the ‘top model look'”, the expert says. The nice side effect is that treatment with hyaluronic acid fillers also stimulates the body to produce new collagen, which improves the elasticity of the skin and connective tissue. In addition to an experienced doctor, the treatment also requires a suitable filler: “In addition to excellent quality, durability and tolerability, the filler must have strong lifting power, especially in the zygomatic arch, such as the Juvéderm Voluma filler.” The result can be visible for up to 24 months. In addition to accentuated cheeks, a defined jawline also gives a beautiful contour. However, “Loss of volume in the cheeks and sagging of the tissue can make the chin line look spongy,” explains Dr. Djalaei. “In addition, sagging cheeks and a double chin can develop, which patients find disturbing.” This sagging in the lower half of the face can also be corrected with hyaluronic acid fillers, “Juvéderm Volux facial filler treatment is ideal for many who want a firmer, contoured chin and jawline.”… weiterlesen

Testet for you: Fine Fragrance „27 in Macao“ from Len Histoire Privée

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Normally, I don’t like to test fragrances because the sensations and associations that a perfume evokes are something very individual. That’s why it’s difficult to recommend a fragrance to someone. You have to experience fragrances, sniff them out. The fact that I make an exception in my product tests today is not only due to the fact that so many people – especially women – ask me about my fragrance when I wear “27 in Macao“. First and foremost, it’s because of the private story (“Histoire Privée”) behind Len that fascinated me. From Russia with love It begins with a French officer and the lost war of 1812. François de La Lenes, before returning home, had to take a job in Russia. He became a French teacher for the children of the family of the Russian Count Artuchowski. As a token of his love, he gave the lady of the house two perfume recipes. But another 200 years passed before the formulas 2015 became fragrances. Great-granddaughter Jelena von Olnhausen founded the Len Fragrance brand with the “Histoire Privée” fragrance line. The result is six perfumes, each of which tells a real or fictional love story. Each package features elements of the love stories and symbols of the city in which they are set. They are repeated on the back of the label when viewed through the bottle. By the way, the name “Len” goes back to the first perfumer “de la Lenes”. In the meantime, a renowned perfume artist is responsible for the fragrances. The Frenchman Michel Almairac has already worked for all well-known brands – from Bottega Veneta to Chloé and Gucci to Zadig &Voltaire. The fragrance of Macao Why did the oriental-spicy aroma of “27 in Macao” do it to me? Because the island off Hongkong, just an hour away by boat, fascinated me in a repulsively attractive way during my first and only visit. Gambling everywhere you look. Well-heeled Chinese. Tragic losers. Monstrous casinos. In 2018, they generated an annual turnover of almost 35 billion euros. Huge shopping malls line the Cotai Strip. Night screaming neon signs, the Eiffel Tower in Cotai shines in pink and from the landmark of the city, the 338 m high Macau Tower one experiences breathtaking views. The city rightly earns its nickname “Las Vegas of Asia”. When I first got a whiff of “27 in Macau,” I immediately thought, “Yeah, that’s what Macao smells like.“… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Self tanner “Sun Face Tan Water” from Glynt

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I love self tanner because I don’t like to walk around in spring with a winter pale face. Well, I’m not really pale by nature. But a bit of a sunkissed look without UV radiation is something nice. With many self-tanners that I have tried, I do not like the texture or the smell. For me, they are also not a replacement for a day cream, but an add-on, but not always the two textures get along well. Alternative were for me therefore often sun drops, which I mixed under the day care. A tanning water could be a good alternative for me, so I tried the “Face Tan Water” from Glynt. Tanning water The “Tan Water” self-tanner in a pump dispenser lives up to its name. It is actually a watery, transparent liquid. Like all self tanners, it contains the self-tanning active ingredient DHA (dihydroxyacetone), which combines with the proteins in the horny layer and thus tans the top layer of skin. The “tanning water” has already passed the smell test for me. It smells pleasantly cosmetic. After cleansing, I apply my day care as usual and wait long enough for it to be fully absorbed. From the self tanner I should give 1-3 doses on a cotton pad and spread it with circular movements from the center of the face in all directions. I do it that way for the first application. However, I have the feeling that too much of the tanner and also of my skincare remains in the pad. Less is more Next time I prefer to use my fingers. One pump is enough for the face – more of the liquid would run through my fingers anyway. I spread the self tanner from the bridge of the nose over the cheeks to the forehead and chin area, creating a soft transition to the neck. After about two hours, a beautiful, really very natural tan has set. For me, just right, not too light and not too dark. Therefore, it is also enough for me to re-treat only every second or third day to keep the sun-kissed result. In the sun – if it shines – I of course additionally apply a UV protection, because it is not included in the “Face Tan Water“. „SUN Face Tan Water“ from Glynt, 30 ml, € 9,60… weiterlesen

Tested for you: BB Cream „Super BB au Ginseng“ from Erborian

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The BB cream of the Korean brand promises a complexion like “photoshopped”. Sounds promising. In general, I find the concept of the Asian care label extremely interesting. It makes use of the herbs of the Orient, and the purely natural active ingredients are obtained in traditional processes. In the new BB cream, ginseng is the main active ingredient. More precisely, white ginseng and fermented ginseng flowers in one formula. Ginseng, the Asian miracle roottische Wunderwurzel Ginseng has a long tradition in Chinese medicine. The root has been used for thousands of years to strengthen the body’s defenses. Responsible for the effect are the ginsenosides, which are said to have blood sugar-lowering properties, among other things. It is known as a proven tonic to strengthen the immune system, is said to fight fatigue, help against fatigue and prevent a cold. But also as far as the skin is concerned, ginseng is considered a real miracle weapon for a younger appearance due to its moisturizing and nourishing properties. It stimulates the general skin functions and is even said to have a firming effect by boosting the collagen production. BB Cream – half skincare, half makeup “Super BB au Ginseng is half skincare, half makeup. I apply a small amount of BB in the middle of the face after my serum and blend it outwards. The product is so nourishing that I can do without the day cream. And the look is just super. In fact, “Super BB” evens out the complexion and covers small blemishes like pigmentation spots and redness. Skin feels well hydrated all day and is protected from UV damage with SPF 20 (100% mineral sun filters). To visibly reduce impurities such as pimples, pores and blackheads, the formula has been enriched with Niacinamide. The vitamin B3 or niacin is known as a powerful active ingredient for clear skin. What I particularly like is the very pleasant, light texture. It does not “weigh down” the skin like foundation sometimes do, but leaves a natural, velvety finish. You could almost say that the “Super BB” has a baby skin effect. I also appreciate that there is a 15 ml version to try. „Super BB au Ginseng“ from Erborian, 40 ml, 51,50 US$… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Concealer „Good Apple“ from KVD Beauty

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Finally the concealer is available. Actually, I pay rather less attention to products that are so highly praised on Instagram or TikTok. Too often they are paid promos, and there is certainly nothing bad said about it. But the hype of the KVD Vegan Beauty “Good Apple Foundation” that went viral made me curious about the new tattoo-inspired vegan makeup brand. The skin-refining foundation with apple extract is supposed to provide a perfect complexion that resembles a juicy apple, it says in countless videos. Above all, the coverage, the pleasantly light texture and the long durability are praised. Concealer instead of make-up As a longtime makeup refuser, I can not judge, so I waited until recently the “Good Apple Lightweight Full-Coverage Concealer” came on the market. It is also enriched with apple extract, has antioxidant properties and provides the sensitive eye skin with an extra dose of care and moisture. Wrinkles around the eyes are said to be plumped up as if from within and dark shadows are reduced. By the way, the brand’s Global Director of Artistry is Nikki Wolff, who has celebrities like the Kardashians, Dua Lipa and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley under her brush. Fingertip feeling The application of the concealer with the applicator works perfectly. It is modeled on a fingertip and can therefore be applied precisely even in the corners. Personally, I still prefer a concealer brush because I can work better with the brush and its longer handle. The opacity is really sensational and very durable. The texture is light and nourishing, so that it does not dry out the skin throughout the day. To cover small blemishes on the face, I leave the concealer on for 30 seconds before blending it. This allows me to achieve full, spot coverage. Tips & tricks For me, I have chosen the color medium. It harmonizes perfectly with my complexion. But surely everyone finds his color at KVD; there are 32 colors with different undertones in yellow, pink and copper to choose from. It is not only your own skin tone that is important, but also what you want to achieve with the product: for highlighting, choose a shade that is 1-2 shades lighter than your own complexion, e.g. apply to cheekbones and bridge of nose. To conceal veins, use a concealer color with a yellow or golden undertone. For pigmentation spots, a peach or copper undertone is optimal. There is also another good tip: “A darker concealer can be used perfectly as an eyeshadow base.… weiterlesen