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Author: Margit Rüdiger

CultureAndCream Author from Munich To travel during my profession as a beauty journalist was never enough for my. Also my six month on a world trip didn't do it. It always attracts me to other cities, foreign countries, on roadtrips and places I don't know yet. But I am not only interested in "culture" and "cream", I am also fascinated by people who have stories to tell .  Such unique experiences I want to share with you.

Tested for you: Lifting and firming “Eye Lift Concentrate” from Noble Panacea

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Lifting and firming is the most important thing for a youthful eye area. To achieve these effects, Noble Panacea has developed a special concentrate with OSMV technology. It allows active ingredients to be encapsulated and released into the skin in a pre-programmed sequence and dosage, which can increase the effectiveness of a skincare product by up to ten times. This micro-dosed, gradual and precisely controlled release of ingredients offers two key benefits – an immediate effect on the one hand and long-lasting firmness on the other. The skin around the eyes is sensitive and susceptible to severe stress, lack of sleep and premature signs of ageing. No wonder, the eye works hard all its life. It has 22 muscles and blinks over 10,000 times a day, with 14 movements every 10 seconds. So much for the facts. The consequences of these repetitive movements are expression lines. The already thin skin becomes even drier. Drooping eyelids and bags under the eyes form. Lifting and firming the eye area The new Eye Lift Concentrate from Noble Panacea has been developed to reduce the appearance of expression lines. At the same time, it prevents existing wrinkles from deepening by reducing muscle contractions. As a result, the skin will receive firming, look smoother and more youthful in the long term. To achieve this, the active ingredients are released in a controlled micro-dosage thanks to the special OSMV technology (Organic Super Molecular Vessel Technology). It was developed especially for Noble Panacea by Sir Fraser Stoddart, Nobel Prize winner for chemistry. Short-term effects are provided by substances such as octapeptides to reduce muscle contractions and expression lines. A bio-matrix complex provides an immediate lifting and firming effect. Persian silk tree extract delivers long-term results, protecting, strengthening and improving the properties of the dermis. This means that sagging upper eyelid skin can be lifted, crow’s feet are reduced, dark circles and puffiness diminished. It also contains retinal, an effective form of vitamin A that is better tolerated by sensitive areas. It helps to reduce fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating collagen production. 12 individually packed active doses I tested the product for 12 weeks. One pack lasts that long with two applications a week. As this is not a normal eye cream the concentrate does not need to be applied daily. This period of time is also necessary until the tightening effect and more firmness in the eye area appear.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: 16 Shades “The Concealer” Pen from Victoria Beckham Beauty & Augustinus Bader 

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Concealers are essential for any make-up routine. Even if you don’t wear much make-up (apart from lipstick!) like me. Because these tools are truly multi-talented when it comes to concealing dark shadows, puffiness and discoloration under the eyes. Even better if they also have skincare properties – like the new “Concealer Pen” developed by Augustinus Bader for Victoria Beckham Beauty. It contains the unique patented TFC8® complex, on which Professor Bader’s entire beauty line is based. He developed this complex, which is based on over 30 years of research in applied stem cell biology and regenerative medicine, in his Leipzig laboratory. One concealer, double the effect The concealer covers the complexion like a second skin and simultaneously nourishes it with highly active nutrients from the Trigger Factor Complex TFCTM technology. It is a carefully formulated blend of high-quality vitamins, lipids and highly effective, protected peptides. This transports essential nutrients into the skin for cell renewal, combating signs of ageing and damage for healthier looking skin. “Imagine a concealer you need less the more you use it. The formula easily and quickly camouflages dark circles and spots, but the ingredient technology in The Concealer Pen is just as powerful as skin care. It acts as a supernutrient for your skin alongside smooth, brightening coverage that’s not too oily or too drying.” Victoria Beckham The TFC8® complex in the concealer pen is complemented by Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, a peptide known to reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Especially those caused by facial expressions, such as around the eyes and mouth. Polyglutamic Acid helps to improve the skin’s moisture magnet, hydration and elasticity, thus reducing the appearance of wrinkles. Another moisturizer is Squalane, a highly biocompatible oil that has the ability to penetrate the skin to provide hydration and antioxidant protection. 16 different shades From the huge color palette of sixteen intelligently coordinated shades, there is the right one for every skin tone. I use a medium shade called LM1 (Light medium with neutral warm undertones). The pen has a light to medium camouflage that blends out to a very natural base and makes any imperfections disappear. The slim brush pen is also ideal for touch-ups on the go because it can be applied quickly with one hand, as Victoria Beckham explains. At home, however, when I have more time to invest, I prefer to use a slightly wider concealer brush so that I can spread the texture particularly thinly and evenly, especially under the eyes.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: „Baby Blonde Duo“ from Christophe Robin

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The “Baby Blonde Duo” consists of the “Shade Variation Shampoo” and the “Shade Variation Conditioner”. The two have declared war on the yellow tinge of blonde or gray hair. Just the thing for me. Now baby blonde. Four years ago, I changed my hair color from natural black to “salt & pepper”, i.e. silver streaked, after the first signs of white temples appeared. At the time, it didn’t even occur to me that I would no longer be able to use “normal” shampoos, which I still had heaps of in my cupboard, but would need products that prevent or neutralize the unsightly discolouration of the colour-treated strands. Violet combats yellow This anti-yellow or anti-brass hair care – whether shampoo, conditioner or mask – usually has a purple color. This is because, according to the principles of colorimetry, violet is the complementary color to yellow. Crushed violet pigments are responsible for the purple color, neutralizing the unloved brassy and yellow tones of bleached hair and preserving a fresh, cool shade. A must not only for new blondies, but also for silver hair, because without the right care, even the coolest silver will take on a yellowish shimmer after a while. This is because color-treated hair like mine becomes more porous due to oxidation during the bleaching process. As the hair fibre is chemically altered during bleaching, its natural protective barrier is sensitized, the hair is weakened and is more susceptible to sunlight, chlorine or frequent contact with water. In contrast, the bluish nanopigments that are applied to the surface of the hair fiber during shampooing to correct unwanted color tones have a nourishing effect. The hair cuticle is not attacked, as is the case with bleaching. Advantage for the „Baby Blonde Duo“ I use a purple conditioner every time I wash my hair because the cool purple pigment doesn’t damage the hair. The only disadvantage with many brands: If you leave it in your hair too long, the purple pigments overdo it a bit and give the lightened strands a purple (old lady) shimmer. My grandmother loved it. Not me! That’s why I never leave a purple mask or conditioner on for too long. The “Baby Blonde Duo” has an absolute advantage here. Both product textures are not as dark purple as with many competitors, where I have to wear gloves if I don’t want discolored palms (which can be easily washed off with soap).… weiterlesen

The Crazy World Of Beauty Journalists Before And After Corona

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My column about beauty journalists is something for insiders. For my female colleagues, because there are only a handful of men in our industry who have experienced the same thing as me. The rest of the readers will smile at my experiences. The more sardonic among them will say they always knew that journalists are a spoiled bunch who get everything shoved in front and behind them just so they can write a positive (lie) story. It serves them right that the wind has changed after Corona, they will say. We beauty journalists – I have to admit -have actually been a very pampered people (by the beauty industry) over the many fat years. After all, a good placement in the respective magazine with positive coverage paid off for the companies in hard cash. Even back then, it was questionable whether it was justifiable for a handful of journalists to be flown to the desert for an afternoon just to attend the unveiling of a new perfume. Simply decadent. And not just in terms of the CO2 footprint, which nobody was talking about at the time. Beauty Journalists jet to Paris for a single lipstick I also remember a press trip to Paris with one laughing and one crying eye. The whole thing took place – in an illustrious setting, of course – to launch a single new lipstick. A colleague from a national German daily newspaper wrote a very smug story about how stupid it was to fly to Paris just for a lipstick. I had a great time reading her article, because it really was as far-fetched as she described.tte. But the colleague was also privileged in one way: she could afford it because, although she accepted the invitation, (a) her publisher paid the expenses and (b) the inviting party did not place any advertisements in her newspaper. The rest of us were only allowed to write nice things because the organizer was, after all, an advertising customer of all our magazines. One bad word and each of us would have had our notice on the table the same day. These two outstanding episodes happened more than 15 years ago. But even in the 2010s, there were still plenty of paid trips near and far for journalists to attend product launches. One more thing needs to be said: If the cosmetics manufacturers were already doing it badly, the car companies topped it off with their excessive events and guest gifts.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: „Longevity Bundle“ from Avea

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Longevity, a term that is currently on everyone’s lips. But what is actually behind it? Longevity science aims to add healthy, vibrant years to your life and improve your quality of life. Personal lifestyle plays an important role in this, as a balanced diet, regular exercise and stress management significantly increase longevity. However, certain dietary supplements can also have a supportive effect. Longevity for the cells A tiny molecule called NAD+ has an important function here. It is a coenzyme that is found in every cell and is important for energy metabolism, DNA repair and gene expression. A higher NAD+ level is associated with longevity and less age-related degradation. Unfortunately, however, NAD+ levels decrease with age or with certain lifestyles. This means that this also has a negative impact on vital cell functions. NMN boosts NAD+ NMN is a vitamin B3 derivative that is considered a precursor to NAD+ and offers a promising approach to optimizing NAD+ levels in the body and thus slowing down cell ageing. Many supplement manufacturers are taking advantage of this. Avea’s NMN supplement with advanced Uthever® NMN has been shown to be effective in clinical studies and is also 99% pure. My test of the trio I tested the “Longevity Bundle” from Avea in Switzerland for four weeks. A trio consists of three different products: 30 sachets of the Collagen Activator, a jar of 30 capsules of NMN, the precursor of NAD+, and a jar of 30 booster capsules containing various anti-ageing substances such as ubiquinol (coenzyme Q10), resveratrol, pterostilbene, nicotinamide (vitamin B3) and much more. I follow the guide for daily intake: every morning I take one NMN and one booster capsule, usually after breakfast, which I tend to skimp on except at the weekend. I take the Collagen Activator with Colgevity 8,400 mg (L-glycine 5,000 mg, L-hydroxyproline 1,700 mg, L-proline 1,700 mg), calcium alpha ketoglutarate 1,000 mg, algae powder 200 mg (provides astaxanthin 4 mg) 1-2 hours before going to bed every day. The glycine also promotes restful sleep. I dissolve the contents of the sachet in a glass of water, and thanks to 150 mg of acerola fruit juice extract (provides 48 mg of vitamin C), my bedtime drink doesn’t taste too bad. Why collagen in the evening? So that the Collagen Activator can support the nightly repair work on the skin. Because increased collagen production means firmer and therefore rejuvenated skin. Avea research at ETH Zurich has shown that the collagen precursor Colgevity contained in the powder was able to increase collagen synthesis significantly more than with normal collagen intake.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Moisturizer SPF 15 from Biodroga

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Moisturizer with a sun protection factor is a must for me, even when the sun is no longer burning down from the sky. As soon as the sun’s power fades in the fall and the temperatures are more pleasant again, it’s time for long hikes, a bike ride or an extended shopping spree. But be careful: even if the sun is no longer shining so strongly, you shouldn’t do without UV protection for your skin. Clouds can indeed block some of the sun’s rays. How effectively depends on how thick they are and how high and in what form they appear in the sky. A dense cloud cover can block more UV rays than a thin cloud. However, there is no such thing as complete UV protection from clouds. Black Forest moisturizer That’s why I prefer to moisturize my skin after the dry summer months with a moisturizer that contains sun protection. The texture of the cream should be light, but so intensive that it replenishes the skin’s moisture reserves and reduces dryness lines. The SPF 15 provides me with sufficient protection at this time of year. I apply the product to my face and neck after cleansing and serum and massage it in gently. The soft pink texture has a pleasant scent (I just love that) and is quickly absorbed without leaving a shiny finish on the skin. The Black Forest Skin Secret moisturizer was developed at Biodroga’s Bioscience Institute in the Black Forest. The manufacturer is committed to combining nature and science in a very special way. The raw materials used are based on the model of nature. The majority of the ingredients are of natural origin or are derived from the knowledge of natural biological processes. The best of nature The in-house Black Forest Complex works in all products. It soothes and balances the skin with elderberry, fern and moss. But it not only provides relaxation, it also gives the skin a special energy. The elderberry for the elderberry extract is harvested in the region. It moisturizes and strengthens the skin. It also has an anti-inflammatory and calming effect. Elderberry is ideal for regenerating stressed skin. Fern has a toning effect and anti-inflammatory properties. This brings the skin back into balance. Hyaluronic acid has become an indispensable part of moisturizing care. It is characterized by its ability to bind many times its own molecular weight in water. The combination of high-molecular and low-molecular hyaluronic acid in Black Forest Cream provides the skin with optimum moisture and provides long-lasting protection against water loss.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Fall look from Make Up Factory

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Fall is fast approaching. Nature is already preparing for the coming season. Here in Italy, the widespread oaks are shedding their brown leaves. The pine trees shed their needles in a wonderful reddish brown. I have also adopted the beautiful fall tones of nature for my new eye make-up look. Strong color nuances in an elegant brown-grey. I love these mousse colors because I don’t like any color rush on my eyes. I prefer to save that for my outfits – even in the fall and winter season. Fall look: Be the rebel For my eye make-up, I choose the vegan Pro Effect Eye Palette “Iconic Variations” with a lid in an elegant, black leather look. An extremely aesthetic feel! I can create a new trend for myself every day from the nine sensual eyeshadow powders ranging from a light beige (ideal as an eye opener!) to charcoal black. For the evening, there are two metallic versions in silver and bordeaux, while the other powders are wonderfully matt and velvety-soft to apply. Thanks to the high luminosity and intense color payoff, applying makeup to the eyes with this palette is child’s play – provided you use the right brushes for the eyelid, corner of the eye and lid margin. You can create a blurred shabby look with your fingers, but you should then limit yourself to one color. Incidentally, these are all free from mineral oil, parabens and perfume. Eyeliner with or without wing I use the vegan Ultra Last Precision Liner in an ultra-matt “Deep Black” to give the eyes more expression and to visually thicken the lashes. I can draw both fine and bold lines with the precise felt tip. A little tip on how to make it easier: first draw a gentle line from the inner corner of the eye to the middle of the lash line – always close to the lash line so that there is no gap to the eyeliner. Then draw a second line from the outer corner of the eye to the center. If you want a wing at the end of the eye – whether curved, straight, larger or smaller – you should make sure that there is only a little color on the eyeliner brush. For this reason, a felt liner has a clear advantage here. Place it at the outer corner of the eye and draw a fine line towards the eyebrow.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Rose care line from Italy “Acqua alle Rose”

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Acqua alle Rose is the second brand that has found its way into my bathroom in Italy, alongside Borotalco. The same manufacturer, by the way. A dear friend from Munich (!) introduced me to it because she wanted to bring the products back to Germany. Together we went in search of Acqua alle Rose. I immediately liked the packaging with its ornate, Italian-antiquated white label on a sea-blue bottle. I was surprised by the reasonable price considering the complicated rose distillation process.. Acqua alle Rose – a look at its history As the name suggests, rose essence is the basis of all these products. The origins of the line go back a long way. In 1843, Henry Roberts opened the pharmaceutical laboratory H. Roberts & Co. in the center of Florence. However, their distilled rose water only came onto the market in 1867. The mixture of pure distilled water and extracts of precious roses became the beauty secret of generations of Italian women. As early as the 1930s, production was expanded as demand for rose water continued to rise. In 1983, the first advertisement appeared, claiming that Robert’s rose water “removes the veil of tiredness from your face”. In 2014, the first facial care range was ready for the market, followed in 2020 by a complete range with the unmistakable scent of roses – for all skin types and for all ages.. Roses, roses, roses A wide variety of roses are used for the distilled rose water – from Rosa Janina (rosehip) and Rosa Mosqueta, which is rich in Omega 3, Omega 6 and vitamin A, to Rosa Centifoglia and the well-known Damask rose, which also has an important name in perfume production. The extracts not only have a high skincare effect, but also give the products their subtle, delicate fragrance. The rose hip, also known as the shrub rose, is one of the countless species of wild roses that grow wild in the Italian forests, especially in the Apennines. The small red berries are an incredibly rich source of vitamin C, which is contained in up to 100 times the concentration of citrus fruits. In addition to the rosehip berries, parts of the flower such as petals and buds are also used. Its cosmetic effect is extremely potent, as vitamin C has a strong antioxidant effect that counteracts damage caused by free radicals and combats photoageing. The fruit also contains natural acids with a smoothing and moisturizing effect, tannins and carotenoids.… weiterlesen

Coffee – When is the best time to drink it?

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Kaffee ist unbestritten das Lieblingsgetränk der Deutschen, fast jeder Dritte trinkt ihn sogar mehrmals am Tag. Laut des Deutschen Kaffeebundes verbrauchte jede Person 2021 in Deutschland durchschnittlich 169 Liter Kaffee, ein Liter mehr als im Vorjahr. Die meisten trinken ihn, um morgens wach zu werden. Aber ist das wirklich der ideale Zeitpunkt? Kaffee ist auch für mich der beste Muntermacher. Und gesund ist er auch, wenn man sich auf diverse Studien verlassen mag. Das heißt es, dass die tägliche Tasse Koffein die Gesundheit von Herz und Gehirn fördern kann. Und dass Kaffee, wenn er ohne Zucker – getrunken wird – dank der in der Bohne enthaltenen Antioxidantien zahlreiche gesundheitliche Vorteile bieten kann wie das Ankurbeln des Stoffwechsels. Er soll auch einer Herzinsuffizienz oder einem Schlaganfall vorbeugen. Und schließlich sorgt Koffein dafür, dass wir wacher werden. Das Aufwach-Argument behält allerdings nicht für immer seine Gültigkeit. Denn der Körper gewöhnt sich mit der Zeit an den Koffein-Kick am Morgen, weshalb er mit der Zeit weniger sensibel für den Aufputscher wird. Das bedeutet, dass man dann immer mehr Kaffee benötigt, um wach zu werden. Das richtig Kaffee-Timing Ob mit irgendeiner Art von Milch oder schwarz, ob mit Zucker oder (besser noch!) ohne – es kommt weniger darauf an, wie man seinen Kaffee zu sich nimmt, sondern wann. Mit dem richtigen Timing lassen sich negative Auswirkungen vermeiden. Eine feste Zeit für die erste Tasse zu Tagesbeginn gibt es jedoch nicht. Allerdings hat eine neue Studie herausgefunden, dass ein zu früher Genuss nach dem Aufstehen sich negativ auf die Gesundheit auswirken kann. Das meint zumindest der US-amerikanische Neurowissenschaftler Steven Miller, der sich den Konsum von Kaffee etwas genauer angeschaut hat. Seine Fragestellung war, wann der optimale Zeitpunkt für die erste Tasse sei. Da die Menschen unterschiedliche Tagesabläufe haben, lässt sich das Ergebnis nicht verallgemeinern. Sicher war er sich allerdings darin, dass er beste Zeitpunkt dafür eine bis anderthalb Stunden nach dem Aufstehen ist. Zusätzlicher Cortisol-Schub Warum das so ist? In der Zeit zwischen 8 und 9 Uhr morgens produziert der Körper ohnehin bereits vermehrt das Wachmacher-Hormon Cortisol. Gibt man ihm dann auch noch einen Kaffee zum Wachwerden, kann der Hormonspiegel laut der Studie auf ein erhöhtes Stress-Level gelangen, das mit einer erhöhten Anfälligkeit für Krankheiten und Gewichtszunahme einhergeht. Trinkt man dagegen seinen erste Tasse zwischen 9.30 und 11.30 Uhr oder zwischen 13.30 und 17 Uhr kann man damit wunderbar seine Energie und Leistungsfähigkeit steigern. Denn in diesen Phasen befindet sich der Körper ohnehin in einem Cortisol-Tief und kann den Koffein-Push vertragen.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Fermented active ingredients in “The Truth Serum” from SKŌUD

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Fermented active ingredients are not only a top beauty trend and are considered an anti-ageing booster, they are also an absolute game changer in natural cosmetics. In everyday life, we are familiar with the fermentation of foods such as yogurt, sauerkraut and cheese, but also beer and wine to make them more durable. Korean cosmetics manufacturers, who are ahead of us in many beauty areas, have been working with fermented active ingredients in skincare for a long time. The packaging then says something like “galactomyces ferment filtrate”, “bifida ferment lysate” or “saccaromyces ferment filtrate”. What are fermented active ingredients? The fermentation process is a special fermentation process in which organic substances are converted with the help of fungi and bacteria under anaerobic conditions (without oxygen). The conversion work of the microorganisms during fermentation produces many health-promoting substances such as amino acids, vitamins, lactic acids, polysaccharides and beta glucan. A fermented active ingredient also breaks down into smaller molecules and proteins, which improves its bioavailability, i.e. it can be absorbed more easily by the skin. It is also better tolerated as allergenic proteins are partially converted into non-allergenic substances. Most fermented substances also have a lower pH value and naturally ensure a longer product shelf life. Fermented active ingredients not only score with maximum bioavailability, best tolerance even for sensitive skin types and a top shelf life. The amino acids they contain have a firming effect and can promote collagen production. Vitamins act as antioxidants to protect against UV damage, one of the main causes of premature skin ageing. Support for the skin barrier SKŌUD Skin Health is committed to maintaining healthy skin – with natural, innovative ingredients at a high-performance level. Their “Truth Serum” is a holistic 360° multi-defense serum that protects the skin from harmful environmental influences such as UV radiation, blue light or fine dust with its highly concentrated and natural bioactive ingredients. It neutralizes free radicals that can cause irreversible damage to the skin, thereby perfecting the skin’s appearance. To protect the skin barrier, the serum uses biotechnologically obtained moss extract and fermented oats with their skin microbiome-strengthening properties. It also contains the specially developed active ingredient complex AERI5, which homogenizes the skin’s own microbiome and thus also strengthens the skin barrier. My test I not only like SKŌUD’s philosophy, but also the clear, no-frills presentation of the products and their formulation. The serum has a light and cooling texture that makes it suitable for all skin types.… weiterlesen