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Mica – The Sad Story Behind

Ever heard of mica? And you probably have it somewhere in your cosmetics bag. Because mica is the pigment that makes eye shadows, powders and lipsticks shimmer so beautifully. But it’s not just makeup products that are adorned with the precious pearlescent shimmer. Mica is also used for coatings, for example in the automotive industry. The pigment is not the real problem, but how it is obtained. In itself, mica is not evil. It is a naturally occurring mineral. So it is not problematic for the user. But its extraction often takes place under inhumane conditions – through child labor. This must be stopped. The first steps have already been taken. A major step in the right direction is an initiative that was founded in January 2017. At that time, representatives of 20 companies and organizations worldwide got together and founded the “Responsible Mica Initiative” (RMI). Its goal is to eliminate child labor in mica supply chains. All RMI members must commit to buying only raw substances from legal mines. The association is also committed to transparency and the implementation of workplace standards for mine workers. The initiative now has 80 members from all sectors of industry. These include Chanel, Clarins, Coty, Shiseido, L’Oréal, Sephora, H&M, Porsche and the BMW Group. The children’s charity Terre des Hommes is also part of it. The versatile mineral Mica is a term that comes from Latin. It means something like “glitter” or “shine”. The sheen typical of mica depends on the particle size. The smaller the particle size, the more matte the pigments are and the higher the opacity. “The size of the pigment also determines how shiny something is. A soft eyeshadow needs smaller particles to make it look smooth. Smaller particles create shine, while larger particles create a strong glitter effect,” explains makeup developer Rowena Bird from the cosmetic company lush. The silicate mineral is used in various products from blush to make-up pencils, from nail polish to carnival colors. Mica can even be found in children’s products such as shower gel, bath soap and toothpaste. And because it makes powders easier to make, it is often used as a filler in mineral makeup. Mica belongs to the so-called mica group, and is also disparagingly called cat’s silver or fool’s gold. On the INCI list, it can be found under the designation CI 77019 or as Potassium Aluminum Silicate. Combined with titanium oxide To create different colors and various gloss or glitter effects, the mica particles are coated with an oxide – usually titanium oxide.… weiterlesen

Polyphenols – Longevity aus Pflanzen

Polyphenols are essential for the survival of plants. But they can also provide important services to human health. Milan-based scientist Prof. Adriana Albini has made an astonishing discovery in olive press water. Polyphenols are found in almost every fruit and vegetable, in herbs and also in some foods known as superfoods, such as cocoa powder, chokeberries and blueberries. These so-called secondary metabolites primarily have an antioxidant effect. Many compounds serve as defense substances against pests, diseases and much more. Colorful flower pigments are also plant phenols and attract insects for pollination, for example. However, polyphenols are mainly found in the outer layers of plants (e.g. the skin and the peel). And this is where olives come into play. The dark water obtained during pressing contains an enormous amount of highly effective polyphenols. It is actually a waste product, as we mainly appreciate the oil obtained in the process. This is not the case at Fattoria La Vialla in Meliciano, Tuscany. There, the olive press water is not disposed of, but filled into small jars and sold as a dietary supplement. The tradition of “acqua mora” in Italy is a long one. The ancients have always drunk the bitter elixir of longevity. Nonna Caterina, the great-grandmother of the Lo Francos, is said to have drunk two glasses of it a day during the olive harvest – and lived to be 98 years old. Polyphenols from a scientific point of view Dr. Adriana Albini, who works at the European Institute of Oncology – IEO in Milan and mainly researches inflammatory processes in the body and cancer prevention, examined the OliPhenolia from the Fattoria in more detail. When and how did you come into contact with OliPhenolia? Ah, that’s a nice story. It happened a few years ago. I was speaking on an Italian television program about dietary derivatives for health. The Lo Franco family, owners of Fattoria La Vialla, were watching and asked me if I would be interested in investigating their product, which was obtained from the filtration of “waste water” from olive flour. This olive press water is very rich in healthy substances, especially polyphenols. So I agreed to research it scientifically. We then started to purify the extract and test it on cells in the laboratory. Had you ever heard of “acqua mora” before? Not directly. But it has long been known that olive oil has a positive effect on the human organism.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: „Baby Blonde Duo“ from Christophe Robin

The “Baby Blonde Duo” consists of the “Shade Variation Shampoo” and the “Shade Variation Conditioner”. The two have declared war on the yellow tinge of blonde or gray hair. Just the thing for me. Now baby blonde. Four years ago, I changed my hair color from natural black to “salt & pepper”, i.e. silver streaked, after the first signs of white temples appeared. At the time, it didn’t even occur to me that I would no longer be able to use “normal” shampoos, which I still had heaps of in my cupboard, but would need products that prevent or neutralize the unsightly discolouration of the colour-treated strands. Violet combats yellow This anti-yellow or anti-brass hair care – whether shampoo, conditioner or mask – usually has a purple color. This is because, according to the principles of colorimetry, violet is the complementary color to yellow. Crushed violet pigments are responsible for the purple color, neutralizing the unloved brassy and yellow tones of bleached hair and preserving a fresh, cool shade. A must not only for new blondies, but also for silver hair, because without the right care, even the coolest silver will take on a yellowish shimmer after a while. This is because color-treated hair like mine becomes more porous due to oxidation during the bleaching process. As the hair fibre is chemically altered during bleaching, its natural protective barrier is sensitized, the hair is weakened and is more susceptible to sunlight, chlorine or frequent contact with water. In contrast, the bluish nanopigments that are applied to the surface of the hair fiber during shampooing to correct unwanted color tones have a nourishing effect. The hair cuticle is not attacked, as is the case with bleaching. Advantage for the „Baby Blonde Duo“ I use a purple conditioner every time I wash my hair because the cool purple pigment doesn’t damage the hair. The only disadvantage with many brands: If you leave it in your hair too long, the purple pigments overdo it a bit and give the lightened strands a purple (old lady) shimmer. My grandmother loved it. Not me! That’s why I never leave a purple mask or conditioner on for too long. The “Baby Blonde Duo” has an absolute advantage here. Both product textures are not as dark purple as with many competitors, where I have to wear gloves if I don’t want discolored palms (which can be easily washed off with soap).… weiterlesen

Niacinamide Is Considered A Power Substance For Your Skin

Niacinamide creams and serums are currently in the highest demand in drugstores and perfumeries and always sell out the fastest. They are experiencing an absolute run among female consumers. But men also benefit from niacinamide for enlarged pores, spots and wrinkles. Niacinamide is considered a power ingredient. From Nivea to luxury skincare brands such as Dr. Barbara Sturm, no brand today can do without it. Anyone who deals with dietary supplements is sure to have come across the substance niacin. This is vitamin B3 (the chemical name for vitamin B3 is niacin). Niacin is converted into niacinamide in the body and is therefore an important precursor of two co-enzymes of radical importance for the body’s health: NAD (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide) and NADPH (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate). These two co-enzymes boost the energy of cells and are involved in more than 200 vital enzymatic reactions. It has been scientifically proven that these two co-enzymes decrease with increasing age, particularly in skin tissue. This decline is linked to cell senescence. Aged skin cells secrete less collagen: Niacinamide could help to boost production again. Ageing skin damaged by sunlight can also benefit from this. Niacinamide in serums and creams In skin care, the term niacinamide or nicotinamide is used. Niacinamide is a derivative of vitamin B3, which means that it has a slightly different chemical structural formula to niacin. In the cosmetic field, the water-soluble vitamin B3 derivative is increasingly being mixed into serums or creams. It is considered a remedy for many of the most common problems that can arise from stress, but also from over-care of the skin. Niacinamide is characterized by five important benefits in skin care: It is a “cell-communicating” ingredient that helps to strengthen the building blocks of the skin barrier – ceramides and keratin. Improving the barrier makes the skin more resistant to external influences. An increased ceramide level means that moisture can be stored better. This in turn improves the texture of the skin. It looks plumper and feels softer. As the vitamin B3 derivative regulates melanin production, hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tones can be reduced. The complexion looks healthier and less dull as niacinamide counteracts the glycation process that contributes to collagen breakdown. It has a kind of blurring effect: its anti-inflammatory properties not only help to reduce redness and small imperfections, it can also reduce dark circles under the eyes. The power in gredient can also reduce the size of pores and improve the appearance of blackheads.… weiterlesen

Blue Light: Blue Alert

Blue light has been with us all day long since smartphones, tablets and computers became part of our everyday lives. We are said to use our cell phones alone up to 150 times a day. According to a study by auditing firm EY, Germans aged 21-30 spend 6.9 hours a day surfing, using apps and playing games. Blue light is not as harmless as you might think. These are rays that penetrate deeper into our skin than UVA rays. Although research is still in its infancy, creams and glasses are already available to protect the skin and eyes from the effects of blue light. Blue Light – what exactly is it? Blue light is not an invention of the computer age. Blue light, known as HEV light (High Energy Visible Light), has always existed. It is the visible light that colors the sky such a beautiful blue. In the wave spectrum, it lies directly next to the UV range, so it also occurs in normal daylight. It makes up almost half of the sunlight spectrum. But it’s not just our popular communication tools that emit blue light, neon tubes and modern LEDs do too. Excessive exposure to such light sources can damage the eyes and disrupt the sleep-wake rhythm. This has been scientifically proven. But blue light also has its good sides: In small doses, it can also have positive effects, just like sunlight. In dermatology, blue light has been used for years specifically to treat acne and neurodermatitis. Studies have shown that it also benefits the psyche, e.g. in cases of winter depression. Do you already have a “screen face”? Less encouraging is a more recent finding that radiation causes us to age prematurely. Experts speak of “indoor smog” and the “screen face”. “Blue light penetrates deep into the lower layers of the skin,” explains Swiss dermatologist Dr. Felix Bertram. “We assume that the high-energy blue light causes oxidative stress in the skin, similar to UVA radiation.” On its way into the deep tissue layers, HEV forms large quantities of free radicals, which cause the destruction of important connective tissue fibers such as collagen and elastin. This in turn causes wrinkles to appear at an early stage and the skin loses elasticity, particularly in the chin and cheek area. In addition, the natural barrier layer becomes weaker and therefore more susceptible to external influences. This then manifests itself in irritation and redness, for example.… weiterlesen

The Balcony Power Station As A Sustainable Energy Source In Your Own Home

Balcony power stations are a good approach. In an age of rising energy prices and growing environmental awareness, more and more households are looking for ways to generate their own electricity in an environmentally friendly way. The use of balcony power stations is a concept that has become increasingly popular in recent years. These mini solar power plants allow tenants to produce renewable energy directly on their balconies. In an exclusive guest article, Patrick Willemer Patrick Willemer reports on the topic and provides valuable tips How landlords can benefit from balcony power stations A tenant’s decision to install a such a power plant can present a unique opportunity for landlords. From increasing the appeal of their properties to environmentally conscious tenants to potential tax benefits. The trend towards sustainable living is on the rise and balcony power plants could become a key differentiator for landlords. Properties that are already equipped with environmentally friendly technologies are becoming more attractive. The installation of balcony power plants can not only arouse the interest of potential tenants, but also have a positive impact on rental prices. Landlords could also benefit from various government subsidy programs that support the use of renewable energies in residential buildings. These financial incentives could not only cover the costs of installing balcony power plants, but also mean an additional profit for landlords.. Balcony power plants in urban areas: challenges and opportunities While balcony power stations are undoubtedly an innovative concept for decentralized energy generation, they are not without their challenges. Their integration into densely populated urban areas brings with it architectural and urban planning considerations. Questions of aesthetics and integration into the cityscape are just as important as technical considerations regarding grid stability and optimal utilization of solar energy. Another aspect is possible conflicts of interest between tenants and landlords when it comes to the use of such technologies. Clear agreements and transparent communication can contribute to the successful implementation of balcony power plants in urban areas. Energy transition with balcony power plants Such concepts could be more than just a local solution. In this article, we explore the potential of these mini solar power plants to revolutionize the energy market. From the creation of decentralized energy communities to integration into smart grid systems, we show how balcony power plants could play a crucial role in the future energy supply. Decentralized energy generation through balcony power plants could play a key role in the implementation of a sustainable energy transition.… weiterlesen

Wild Herbs – 3 Superfoods From Nature

Collecting wild herbs is not only fun and an activity in the great outdoors, it also benefits our health. Nutritionist and herb expert Sabine Häberlein explains how to recognize them and what they can do. Wild herbs are in season right now in spring. May in particular brings us a rich selection of wild herbs. It is the time of fresh spring greenery, new beginnings, growth and renewal. The wild herbs that are now growing so fast we can almost watch them reflect this energy. Here I introduce you to the three top representatives with three benefits: they’re widely available, you can easily recognize them and they support you if you want to lose weight. 🌱 Goutweed is a true superfood. It contains lots of vitamin C, iron and potassium and is particularly good for detoxifying the body. Its taste is reminiscent of parsley. Use it fresh in salads or process it into delicious soups or pesto. 🌱 Stinging nettle is another wild plant that is often dismissed as a weed. However, it is a real health booster as it contains lots of iron, vitamin C and E. Use it in soups, salads or as a tea. I pick up a fresh nettle leaf every day. It protects me from iron deficiency. 🌱 The dandelion is not only a beautiful flower, but also a medicinal herb. It contains lots of potassium, vitamin C and bitter substances that stimulate the metabolism and digestion. The leaves add a spicy note to salads. The petals with their bright yellow color are not only a pretty decoration for various dishes. They also provide valuable ingredients that stimulate the metabolism and digestion. The leaves add a spicy note to salads. The wonderful world of plants Have you ever wondered what’s growing in the meadow on your walks? Do you want to know which of these wild herbs are edible and which you should stay away from? Are you interested in which plants have healing powers? In these days, we are used to buying our food in the supermarket.  But there is another way. Nature offers a wide range of plants that can enrich our diet. Of course, it is not possible for us all to become self-sufficient. But every now and then a pesto made from garlic rocket or a wild herb salad can complement our food really well. Not only do these dishes taste delicious, they also provide a concentrated load of vitamins, minerals and phytochemicals – far more than cultivated plants can.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: “Vit C + Biobotox Serum” from Doc.Berger

Biobotox in combination with vitamin C sounds interesting. After all, both are helpers against premature ageing of the skin. The latter is not only known as an effective antioxidant that protects the skin from the “evil” free radicals. This is because these can accelerate the ageing process. Vitamin C is partly responsible for the firmness and elasticity of the skin. By stimulating collagen production. Ultimately, this helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Not to forget: The vitamin has a brightening effect. It has the ability to reduce hyperpigmentation and age spots and brightens the complexion. Biobotox instead of botulinum toxin? Biobotox is being hyped as a competitor to Botox therapy in anti-ageing care. But there is no comparison. While botulinum toxin specifically blocks the muscles and paralyzes them for a certain period of time, Biobotox primarily has a relaxing effect on the surface of the skin. The substance is a plant-based active ingredient such as spilanthol from paracress or argireline, an organic chemical compound consisting of six amino acids, which is why it is also known as a hexapeptide. Argireline is also known as “Notox” and is injected as deeply as possible into the skin using microneedling. However, you should never expect the effects of a Botox injection. But for those who are injection-phobic, it is a soft alternative to at least counteract fine expression lines. But that’s not all. The biobotox power serum also contains other highly effective anti-ageing substances. The first is ferulic acid, which has a similar effect to vitamin C (3-O-Vit.C). The two are a powerful duo that activates collagen production. Ferulic acid is an organic compound found in various plants, e.g. stinkash, dill, rice or sweet grasses such as wheat or barley. Purslane is also an active ingredient of plant origin. In German it is also known as purslane extract. In anti-ageing skincare, it is said to have pore-refining, rejuvenating, moisturizing and soothing properties. But more importantly: Purslane is an innovative time-control molecule that protects the telomeres, i.e. the caps of the chromosomes, and thus ensures the longevity of the cells. My test The “Vit C + Biobotox Serum” comes in a brown pipette bottle. This makes sense because vitamin C is extremely sensitive to heat and light. The liquid is also brown. Which I like less because I find the color very uncosmetic. But that is purely a subjective preference. I like the slightly musty smell even less.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Facial cleansing mask “Purifying Mask” by Royal Fern

Time for a mask, now. Once a week it can be a little more. It’s mask time for me and my skin as a supplement to my daily skincare routine. I feel like a little extra care, my skin needs it. I prefer to leave the face mask on while I take a warm bath. It’s so wonderfully relaxing after a long, tiring day. Gel mask: blue first, then transparent This week I chose the brand new “Purifying Mask” from Royal Fern . It’s a gel mask that cleanses the skin and refines its surface. The gel comes out of a bluish transparent tube, which is also blue with a slight hint of gray. But don’t worry, you won’t turn into a blue smurf. Applied to the skin in a thin layer, the texture of the gel is transparent. It goes without saying that the face must be cleansed beforehand and the skin must be dry. The gel is super light on the skin. Nothing sticks. After about 15 minutes, I have the feeling that the product starts to tighten slightly on the skin. It doesn’t feel uncomfortable at all, but I think the application time is enough for me. Between 10 and 20 minutes is recommended. So I remove the gel with a damp cloth. Tip: The thinner the layer you have applied, the easier it is to wash the gel off. Clear, radiant skin Afterwards, my skin is remarkably radiant. It looks nourished and well moisturized. This is not always the case with cleansing masks, as they often leave an unpleasant feeling of tightness afterwards. A sign that the skin has dried out. The Royal Fern cleansing mask is completely different. The gel owes this care benefit to a mixture of natural extracts and skin-caring nutrients. Tranexam acid lightens and minimizes pigmentation spots, which are often caused by pimples and acne. White willow bark is a natural alternative to salicylic acid, a chemical substance. It acts as a gentle exfoliant, refining pores, fighting impurities and smoothing the skin’s surface. Niacinamide helps to regulate sebum production. It has an anti-inflammatory effect and can therefore reduce redness. As in all Royal Fern products from the Munich dermatologist Dr. Timm Golüke, it also contains a patented complex whose main properties are antioxidant and anti-inflammatory. I give full marks for a mask that cleanses my skin and leaves it radiant at the same time.… weiterlesen

Tested for you: Skin-friendly UV protection “Sun Emulsion SPF 50” from Skinome

Skin-friendly UV protection is essential to keep the skin young and healthy. However, organic chemical filters in particular can do more harm than good and trigger allergies, especially in sensitive people. If they also contain fragrances and preservatives, they add to the problem. The Swedish Beauty-Brand Skinome s committed to being “skin-friendly”, even when it comes to sun care. For more than 10 years, brand founder Dr. Johanna Gillbro, an experimental and clinical dermatologist, has been researching healthy stimulants for intact skin flora. Her microbiome-friendly active care made from freshly manufactured products is based on her own specially developed laboratory formulations. Skin-friendly UV protection protects the microbiome In March 2024, the Sun Emulsion SPF50+ skincare product based on the latest research will be launched. The skin-friendly UV protection is based on Skinome’s concept of fresh, microbiome-friendly and unscented skincare without unnecessary additives and preservatives so as not to disrupt the skin’s own microbiome. The emulsion is designed to reduce the risk of UV-induced signs of ageing such as wrinkles, pigmentation spots and broken veins. I was allowed to test it in advance. “It is above all the UV filters that make the product unique. With our combination of the best and safest mineral and organic UV filters, you benefit from the advantages of both filter types, resulting in safe and secure sun protection that is also pleasant and comfortable to use,” explains Ulf Åkerström, Chief Innovation Officer at Skinome and one of Sweden’s leading sun protection experts. Skin-friendly UV protection protects the environment Skinome uses these innovative large molecule organic filters that are non-hormonally active while providing photostable and balanced UVA and UVB protection. The mineral filters and the latest and most advanced organic UV filters have better environmental properties to minimize the impact of the product on the environment. I like the minimalist concept of Skinome and the clever dispenser. No fiddly opening of the tube or jar. With a single twist of the cap, the dispenser nozzle is “on” and it is just as easy to close again. The texture is extremely light for a sun cream and is beautifully matt on the skin. I use it as my only day cream because it contains sufficient moisturizing ingredients such as lecithin, urea and ceramides. As long as my skin is not yet tinted by the sun, I mix in my favorite tanning drops from Oskia London – and the sunkissed look is complete.… weiterlesen